Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Rust input please

Someone explain to me how it’s possible for the paint on that control arm mount dripping up?
View attachment 611958

My $.02: these frames rot from the inside out, and yours is in very deep trouble. If I'm you, I would: get a scope and look at the inside of the frame and the torque boxes. Liquid Wrench the skid bolts first, tap lightly with rubber mallet, repeat with LW. Pull only one skid bolt-the skid is the trans mount as well. LW on the side step mounting bolts and pull those off and take a look. Definitely take a look at your fuel tank skid as well. I'm predicting massive frame rot and the torque boxes will be in serious trouble as well.
 
My $.02: these frames rot from the inside out, and yours is in very deep trouble. If I'm you, I would: get a scope and look at the inside of the frame and the torque boxes. Liquid Wrench the skid bolts first, tap lightly with rubber mallet, repeat with LW. Pull only one skid bolt-the skid is the trans mount as well. LW on the side step mounting bolts and pull those off and take a look. Definitely take a look at your fuel tank skid as well. I'm predicting massive frame rot and the torque boxes will be in serious trouble as well.

Busy weekend but update. Interestingly enough, I dropped the skid and used a flap disk/grinder to get all the rust off down to bare metal and it didn't take much at a ll. Basically the flakey/chunky bits were knocked off and bare metal wasn't much deeper than that. Similar story with the interior facing frame rails. I'm sure there is some amount of rust on the interior, but the fact that I was able to get down to bare metal within a few seconds of using a flap disk and just taking off the rust seen in the photos is promising to me. I also carefully felt around each area of the frame where holes are present and everything is smooth with what feels like just a bit of surface rust - nothing flakey or rot feeling. I did drill holes in the bottom of the control arm mounts to allow water to drain, which it did promptly after considering I flushed the frame out with the pressure washer.

That being said, I was in a rush to get the job done before the wife came home since I was using her bay in the garage. In the process I snapped off two of the skid mount bolts (center bolt on each side, so each corner is still there). So that will be another project to work on in the very near future. Skid plate had similar levels of rust in the same areas as the frame. I ground it all down as well and painted it along with the frame. Went for a drive (yes even with the 4 bolts instead of 6) and all is well. I won't be driving it anymore until I get the bolts replaced.

Overall I'm slightly surprised but happy to have found that the frame isn't as bad as it looked. I will reiterate, absolutely zero holes or deep rot was found. I wonder if somehow the skid lip was holding snow/moisture above those areas and allowed it to rust mostly on the outside. Odd design for sure. I did place a couple washers between the skid and frame when I reattached it so allow for airflow to hopefully prevent issues like this in the future.

Anyone have any leads on replacement bolts and the best method to get the rest out? I've read that they are nutserts instead of flag nuts..think I should just drill them out?
 
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@mrblaine on his website https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ sells everything you need in package form to replace those nutserts and mounting bolts.
As a new member you most likely don’t know the wizard but you soon will. 😉

Also pick up Blaine’s nutsert installation tool. It is well worth the cost, and makes installation much easier.
 
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Busy weekend but update. Interestingly enough, I dropped the skid and used a flap disk/grinder to get all the rust off down to bare metal and it didn't take much at a ll. Basically the flakey/chunky bits were knocked off and bare metal wasn't much deeper than that. Similar story with the interior facing frame rails. I'm sure there is some amount of rust on the interior, but the fact that I was able to get down to bare metal within a few seconds of using a flap disk and just taking off the rust seen in the photos is promising to me. I also carefully felt around each area of the frame where holes are present and everything is smooth with what feels like just a bit of surface rust - nothing flakey or rot feeling. I did drill holes in the bottom of the control arm mounts to allow water to drain, which it did promptly after considering I flushed the frame out with the pressure washer.

That being said, I was in a rush to get the job done before the wife came home since I was using her bay in the garage. In the process I snapped off two of the skid mount bolts (center bolt on each side, so each corner is still there). So that will be another project to work on in the very near future. Skid plate had similar levels of rust in the same areas as the frame. I ground it all down as well and painted it along with the frame. Went for a drive (yes even with the 4 bolts instead of 6) and all is well. I won't be driving it anymore until I get the bolts replaced.

Overall I'm slightly surprised but happy to have found that the frame isn't as bad as it looked. I will reiterate, absolutely zero holes or deep rot was found. I wonder if somehow the skid lip was holding snow/moisture above those areas and allowed it to rust mostly on the outside. Odd design for sure. I did place a couple washers between the skid and frame when I reattached it so allow for airflow to hopefully prevent issues like this in the future.

Anyone have any leads on replacement bolts and the best method to get the rest out? I've read that they are nutserts instead of flag nuts..think I should just drill them out?

I'm happy my prediction was wrong, given those pics. I think you are in for some tough drilling on those snapped bolts, but maybe there's a better way. Might want to drill some drain holes in the bottom of the frame as well-behind the front control arm mounts and before the rear control arm mounts, 5/8" should do it.
 
Busy weekend but update. Interestingly enough, I dropped the skid and used a flap disk/grinder to get all the rust off down to bare metal and it didn't take much at a ll. Basically the flakey/chunky bits were knocked off and bare metal wasn't much deeper than that. Similar story with the interior facing frame rails. I'm sure there is some amount of rust on the interior, but the fact that I was able to get down to bare metal within a few seconds of using a flap disk and just taking off the rust seen in the photos is promising to me. I also carefully felt around each area of the frame where holes are present and everything is smooth with what feels like just a bit of surface rust - nothing flakey or rot feeling. I did drill holes in the bottom of the control arm mounts to allow water to drain, which it did promptly after considering I flushed the frame out with the pressure washer.

That being said, I was in a rush to get the job done before the wife came home since I was using her bay in the garage. In the process I snapped off two of the skid mount bolts (center bolt on each side, so each corner is still there). So that will be another project to work on in the very near future. Skid plate had similar levels of rust in the same areas as the frame. I ground it all down as well and painted it along with the frame. Went for a drive (yes even with the 4 bolts instead of 6) and all is well. I won't be driving it anymore until I get the bolts replaced.

Overall I'm slightly surprised but happy to have found that the frame isn't as bad as it looked. I will reiterate, absolutely zero holes or deep rot was found. I wonder if somehow the skid lip was holding snow/moisture above those areas and allowed it to rust mostly on the outside. Odd design for sure. I did place a couple washers between the skid and frame when I reattached it so allow for airflow to hopefully prevent issues like this in the future.

Anyone have any leads on replacement bolts and the best method to get the rest out? I've read that they are nutserts instead of flag nuts..think I should just drill them out?

I never thought it looked that bad by the pics,drilled drain holes and used a harbor freight drill powered drain cleaner with 4 links of thin chain to clean mine out .washed it out and used Eastwood inner frame spray with the nozzle that sprayed all directions.
 
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I'm happy my prediction was wrong, given those pics. I think you are in for some tough drilling on those snapped bolts, but maybe there's a better way. Might want to drill some drain holes in the bottom of the frame as well-behind the front control arm mounts and before the rear control arm mounts, 5/8" should do it.

Good copy on the drain holes near the control arm mounts as I actually did that yesterday. I do think the drilling out the snapped bolts will be fun..I had considered running a short bead along the frame + skid that could easily be grinded through in the future. But doing it right the first time and ordering new nutserts is likely what I'll do.

On another note, I'm loving this TJ. it's a different feel than my JK and JT for sure, so much smaller and more nimble feeling.
 
Good copy on the drain holes near the control arm mounts as I actually did that yesterday. I do think the drilling out the snapped bolts will be fun..I had considered running a short bead along the frame + skid that could easily be grinded through in the future. But doing it right the first time and ordering new nutserts is likely what I'll do.

On another note, I'm loving this TJ. it's a different feel than my JK and JT for sure, so much smaller and more nimble feeling.

Yep,I got one that is stripped,I ordered the kit from @mrblaine.make sure you buy the install tool also.oh he even put in an extra riv nut for practice,the guy really thinks of everything!
 
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Good copy on the drain holes near the control arm mounts as I actually did that yesterday. I do think the drilling out the snapped bolts will be fun..I had considered running a short bead along the frame + skid that could easily be grinded through in the future. But doing it right the first time and ordering new nutserts is likely what I'll do.

On another note, I'm loving this TJ. it's a different feel than my JK and JT for sure, so much smaller and more nimble feeling.

I’ve driven many road miles with less than 5 skid bolts. I wouldn’t worry for pavement.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator