06 Rubicon stock lockers, I am trying solve a issue with my front locker. Compressor activates and is moving air. The front locker has engaged on the first attempt (2x, different days) but won't after that... again it is moving air and the dash lights are accurately showing the lockers modes from locked to blinking while attempting too. The compressor does not kick off if I block off the port with my finger. The fact that it has engaged on the 1st attempt makes me think system leak free even tho compressor not shutting off. The jeep is in process of build so not being driven but is driveway "drivable", I have rebuilt the axles while regearing completely disassembly, cleaning and replacing all wear parts. the actuator moves good. What am I missing here? Thx!
Rubicon locker inconsistent engagement
- Thread starter oldytruck
- Start date
ok I'm too old to understand the new English... help me out with some clarification please as to what you are referring to.
This suggests that there is a leak somewhere in between the pump and your finger.
All he needs to do is spin one wheel. No need to roll the entire Jeep forward.
If the system is viable with no other issues and working properly, it would be rare for the locker to lock up immediately after you tell it to with the switch. The locking clutches have sets of teeth on each one that have to engage. The air actuator pushes them together and if the teeth don't mesh to lock, then the plunger does not move far enough to send a "lock" signal. To get the teeth to line up, you need to turn the clutches at different rates or achieve differentiation by moving the vehicle in other than a straight line.
Alternately for testing, jack up one side, get it into 4 low, lock in the rear, then lock the front. If it does not lock immediately, turn the tire in the air a small amount until you feel it lock up and you can't turn the tire. Also a good way to check the rest of what is going on.
let me back up here, All 4 wheels are all off the ground and the front diff cover is off. I did rotated the differential when it did not engage on 2nd attempt (1st attempt they both engaged immediately upon activating the switch) both sides independently and at the same time. I verified air at the activator within the diff then proceeded to remove the air line from the pump and verify presence of air exiting the pump. I did not verify the pressure that it is generating. I then verified the actuator was ... for lack of a better term "stuck" and could/would in fact engage the locker and move freely which it does. Left it for the night. This am upon activating to continue looking into it they both activated immediately upon switching them. However when cycling to verify the rear one is fine the front not so much. Thus my post, I have air and the bladder works but only once. Hope this clarifies . Thx to all that have already chimed in, much appreciated.
You stated the compressor does not kick off when you covered the port. What port?
There is an air leak or the compressor is not achieving 5 PSI if it does not cut off.
There is an air leak or the compressor is not achieving 5 PSI if it does not cut off.
Connect the rear compressor to the front locker hose. If the front now works correctly, you have a weak front locker pump.
Actually just verified it locks up with rear compressor. So apparently I’m not getting the required psi. I’ll start researching options… any advice/direction on solutions?
Check Ebay or Marketplace for oem replacement.
There's also a Kia option.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/kia-air-pump-replacement-for-rubicon-lockers.38466/
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The first thing you need to do is go back to the very back and reverse your hoses going into each pump
That’s going to tell you if it’s the pump - if, and only if , it fixes it
If it doesn’t you need to bypass everything- run a hose from one pump all the way up to the differential and see if it works- That will tell you if you have a leak somewhere between the pump and the front differential
If it’s inside the differential around the bladder you’re going to hear the air coming out most likely
That’s going to tell you if it’s the pump - if, and only if , it fixes it
If it doesn’t you need to bypass everything- run a hose from one pump all the way up to the differential and see if it works- That will tell you if you have a leak somewhere between the pump and the front differential
If it’s inside the differential around the bladder you’re going to hear the air coming out most likely
Please be aware when thinking about using a replacement pump, that you never exceed 5 psi to the locker bladder, you’ll pop it.
And that’s what makes finding a replacement difficult.
And that’s what makes finding a replacement difficult.
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