Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

RPM problems

I put a failsafe tstat in there, and I've heard they have a rep for failing more often than a standard tstat.
They fail open - the one I had (the only thing available at the local parts store) had a metal clip that held the disc open if an “overheat” event occurred. Apparently that happened on a 115 degree day with the AC on in rush hour traffic. I removed the metal clip in order to revert it to a “normal” thermostat and it’s been working fine for many years now.
 
Update:

I spent a few hours yesterday just testing each sensor, in the unlikely event any of them went bad. They all tested within range. Weirdly enough, I start the jeep to go to work and immediately it threw a cel and was missing.
I've been dealing with this problem on and off for months, so I pushed the injector clip and it smoothed out like always. Interestingly it wouldn't accelerate, I really has to press the pedal to get moving, and I couldn't idle around in 1st. I ran the codes and got 24 and 27. Tps sensor and injector misfire. I tested the sensor again after turning it off and same thing, .7 at "idle", 3.7 at "WOT" and smooth voltage increase throughout the range. Over the many months I've been having this problem, I've swapped the tps 4 times. 1 parts store brand a delphi, and a few ntk ones. Is there a chance the pcm is rejecting these sensors?
 
Update:

I spent a few hours yesterday just testing each sensor, in the unlikely event any of them went bad. They all tested within range. Weirdly enough, I start the jeep to go to work and immediately it threw a cel and was missing.
I've been dealing with this problem on and off for months, so I pushed the injector clip and it smoothed out like always. Interestingly it wouldn't accelerate, I really has to press the pedal to get moving, and I couldn't idle around in 1st. I ran the codes and got 24 and 27. Tps sensor and injector misfire. I tested the sensor again after turning it off and same thing, .7 at "idle", 3.7 at "WOT" and smooth voltage increase throughout the range. Over the many months I've been having this problem, I've swapped the tps 4 times. 1 parts store brand a delphi, and a few ntk ones. Is there a chance the pcm is rejecting these sensors?
So you have resolved the temp problem?
 
So you have resolved the temp problem?

As far as I can tell, yes. The temp gauge is still dead, but after driving my route before this new issue, I shot the housing and hoses with the temp gun and they read ~180 on the housing and upper hose and ~160 on the lower. That still seems kind of cool to me since the tstat in there is a 195⁰ stant superstat.
 
As far as I can tell, yes. The temp gauge is still dead, but after driving my route before this new issue, I shot the housing and hoses with the temp gun and they read ~180 on the housing and upper hose and ~160 on the lower. That still seems kind of cool to me since the tstat in there is a 195⁰ stant superstat.

My tj runs +- 1° of 195°. By a code reader
 
OBDI for Jeep YJ 1991-1995.
Turn key on/off three times, then on (engine not running), engine light will flash codes.
Longer pauses are breaks between codes. Last code will be 55.
Ignore code 33 on non ac YJ's

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
OR
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
OR
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
OR
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
OR
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
OR
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
OR
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
OR
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
 
OBDI for Jeep YJ 1991-1995.
Turn key on/off three times, then on (engine not running), engine light will flash codes.
Longer pauses are breaks between codes. Last code will be 55.
Ignore code 33 on non ac YJ's

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
OR
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
OR
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
OR
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
OR
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
OR
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
OR
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
OR
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

This is how I got the code 24, but the TPS voltage is well within range. It might be the connector since every tps sensor was good. I'll re-clean it and make sure all of the prongs are tight.
 
Update again:

I let the Jeep sit for a few days with the battery disconnected, since I haven't had time to do anything, and today I rented a fuel pressure tester to diagnose the hard start problem that started the same time as the original problem. Of course everything came back good, but as soon as I hooked the battery up and started it, it immediately threw the same code 24 again, but no symptoms of the sensor being bad. It idles smooth, revs nice, and doesn't miss at all. This code has been taunting me for months now, and I'm now at a loss as for what to do next other than have the PCM tested.
 
I'm back with good news.

After beating my head against a wall with this jeep, I figured out what's wrong. While flushing the coolant, I pulled the connector for the tps and noticed it came off easier than normal. Looking at the plug, I noticed the tab that locks to the sensor is worn out and not locking. The fix you ask? I put a zip tie around the locking tab and everything is back to the way its supposed to be. I assumed the worst and overlooked something really simple. The tstat is working, the temp gauge works now, sitting at ~210 and is rock steady. The throttle is much more responsive and it idles as smooth as a high mileage, large displacement, previously neglected 4 cylinder can. Other than an occasional misfire caused by a bad fuel injector connector, everything is as it should be.
Thank you everyone for your input and solutions.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator