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Revolution Gear Question

Sean B

TJ Enthusiast
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I am getting ready to do my gear install and had a question on the numbers etched in the pinion. They are revolution thick cut 5.13. There are two number in the pinion, 4.312 which I understand is the standard pinion depth of a Dana 44 and the other is 92 which I understand is the gear set ID which matches up to the ring gear. There is a 006 on the ring gear. I didn’t see a + or ~ number to give a deviation from the standard pinion depth. I figured I was missing something here. Just looking to see if can get a comparison with the stock pinion to get a starting spot for shims? I attached a picture.

IMG_3111.jpeg
 
The easiest thing to do is start with the shim stack that was in there. It should be pretty close.

Out of curiosity, I had a .055 slinger between pinion and bearing and nothing behind the pinion race. In the event that the pinion is to deep is there a source for thinner slinger if needed?
Thank you.
 
Out of curiosity, I had a .055 slinger between pinion and bearing and nothing behind the pinion race. In the event that the pinion is to deep is there a source for thinner slinger if needed?

Some aftermarket kits include them, others don't. So if your kit didn't come with one then I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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Revolution sets up great. Did a thick 5.13 set 18 months or so ago. Good luck and I’m sure everyone here will help as much as needed to get you squared away
 
Some aftermarket kits include them, others don't. So if your kit didn't come with one then I wouldn't worry about it.

Sorry to bother you. I watched a couple of your videos and had a question. In one setup you reused the slinger between the pinion and the inner bearing and I don’t n think you shimed behind the cone in the case. In another you shimmed behind the cone/outer race in the case .056 to match the thickness of factory slinger.

My factory setup has a .055 slinger and no shims behind the outer race in the case. What is the preferred way of doing it I guess is my question. Do I try the .055 slinger and only leave it out if it’s too deep after running a pattern. Is the slinger a needed or recommended part, I read somewhere they are only needed in the front axel.

This is a factory locker in a 05 rubicon Dana 44 front axel. Thanks Sean!
 
Sorry to bother you. I watched a couple of your videos and had a question. In one setup you reused the slinger between the pinion and the inner bearing and I don’t n think you shimed behind the cone in the case. In another you shimmed behind the cone/outer race in the case .056 to match the thickness of factory slinger.

My factory setup has a .055 slinger and no shims behind the outer race in the case. What is the preferred way of doing it I guess is my question. Do I try the .055 slinger and only leave it out if it’s too deep after running a pattern. Is the slinger a needed or recommended part, I read somewhere they are only needed in the front axel.

This is a factory locker in a 05 rubicon Dana 44 front axel. Thanks Sean!

Do you have the means to remove the bearing if the shim/slinger is too thick? If not, use shims behind the INNER race, not the outer race. You can use shims behind the pinion head or behind the race or a combination of the two.
 
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Do you have the means to remove the bearing if the shim/slinger is too thick? If not, use shims behind the INNER race, not the outer race. You can use shims behind the pinion head or behind the race or a combination of the two.

Thanks, I do have a clamshell puller so I can remove the pinion bearing without damage if needed.

I probably sounded confused when I said outer race, I was referring to the race of the inner pinion bearing, I have a setup race for that so can try shims as needed. I just was not sure if the slinger was truly needed. I appreciate the quick response!
 
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