I get a crank no start and then a crank and start. If she sits overnight and i cycle the key off and on three times and then crank, she starts right up. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump, so was going to just do the whole assembly. Look at a Delphi Fuel Pump Module from Summit racing. I think it comes with everything I need except maybe the fuel tank lock ring. Do I need another lock ring or does the OEM one that is on the tank work with the Delphi? If I need a different lock ring, can someone recommend one for a 2001 TJ? My buddy has a lift and a fuel tank support jack, so hopefully this goes according to plan. Do I need the lock ring tool? Any other suggestions or advice is welcomed. Thanks!
Replacing fuel pump assembly
- Thread starter readc87
- Start date
My 02 does exactly this. Turning the key 3 times to prime the line is way preferable (to me) over dropping the tank. The pump works fine, it’s the drain back check valve that’s failed. And the aftermarket pumps are nowhere near the quality of the OEM. And often times the ones marked Bosch or Delphi on the website aren’t actually.
There was a rash of this like 2 yrs ago.
I’ve always wondered if we couldn’t just plumb a check valve inline, or if that would be bad for some reason.
There was a rash of this like 2 yrs ago.
I’ve always wondered if we couldn’t just plumb a check valve inline, or if that would be bad for some reason.
Dang. well I order the assembly anyway to have on hand. Did you ever check your fuel pressure? Wouldn't that confirm if its the pump vs the drain back check valve? Can you not replace that valve?
If you have the slosh back when filling the tank issue, you could fix that at the same time you are dropping the tank...
I haven't even had the Jeep long enough to fill it! Only had her since Tuesday. What is the specific issue so I can look out for it.
When you fill the tank, on some Jeeps, the Jeep will puke a small amount of gas back out when the tank is full and the nozzles stops the flow.
Yeah, I get right at ~48psi after the 3rd flip (the 2nd flip gets me to like 40 iirc). But it doesn't hold the pressure as long as it should with the key off.
So is it the fuel pressure regulator that allows the fuel to drain back into the tank from the fuel rail? that's at least what I've read. And it seems for a 2001 TJ to replace that I still have to drop the tank...
I don't know the anatomy that well, but it's all contained within the tank. That's why I'm ok living with turning the key. I hate dropping the tank.
Couple of things... here's how to just replace the regulator or pump or both in your existing assembly/hanger.
Two...after realizing my hanger assembly's plastic was too brittle and broken from an accident...I bought and installed a Brute Power pump assembly from Rock Auto for a about $80 shipped.
That pump has made it on the freeway (no trailer) to the Rubicon and Moab and is still going strong.
-Mac
Two...after realizing my hanger assembly's plastic was too brittle and broken from an accident...I bought and installed a Brute Power pump assembly from Rock Auto for a about $80 shipped.
That pump has made it on the freeway (no trailer) to the Rubicon and Moab and is still going strong.
-Mac
The biggest part of dropping the tank that sucks is the actual hardware that secures the fuel tank skid. It's just carriage bolts that are secured with paper thin retainers (exactly like what holds on certain rotors from the factory) that don't survive longer than a few years in the wintery roads. So when you put an impact or a ratchet on the nut, the carriage bolts pop up and spin out. It can be a bitch to fix. My fuel pump died in my TJ, and it was the one thing I really hoped would never fail because of the carriage bolt BS. PO had the same problem before. When it came time to do my fuel pump, I found carriage bolts actually welded to the frame crossmember in place of the slots for the original bolts. Lucky me.
You being in Virginia may or may not help the situation. A lot of people, on both TJ's and YJ's, that know that their fuel tank skid is going to be a nightmare end up cutting holes in the floor of their tubs for easy access. I didn't have time to order the kit I'm about to mention as I had work the next day. They make a pre-fabbed access door that actually looks pretty nice, and the TJ tub metal is thin and fairly easy to cut into. Just be careful if you go this route, you're cutting right above a potential explosive. A wet towel or welding blanket may not be a bad idea. https://genright.com/shop-by-vehicl...ump-access-panel-for-the-jeep-tj-yj-and-cj-7/
If I had to do it again, I'd probably just put in the access door. Part quality has been in the shitter for years, and I've had a brand new fuel pump out of the box with whiny bearings brand new. It makes replacing the pump much easier. Would've turned my 3 hour job into probably like a 15 minute job. Just saying.
Also, get some of those fuel line connector retaining clips. You'll break at least two. I know I did. A ziptie can be made to work (that's what I did), but I don't think too many people want to go that low... lol.
This jeep has 11,000 miles on it and is pretty much been in a garage in Florida for all of those miles. I don’t know if I’ll have those issues. Should hopefully be pretty easy to drop the tank
KennethS
TJ Addict
Garage in Florida means high humidity almost year round, and salt flood waters or driving on the beach are a possibility as well. My first car on the Gulf Coast rusted out due to high humidity and perpetual rainfall.
Yup. Just easier for me. Granted the carriage bolts give you a lot of wiggle room. The nutserts tend to need massaging of the skid for fitment. But mines been beat on and welded so nothing is straight anymore anyways.
-Mac
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