I've never been a fan of that method. I always preferred to use the Sport Trac rotor as an off the shelf part in case something happens that requires a quick local replacement. I've seen too many damaged rotors that needing a machine shop to get going again is not a great way to do things. Also not a fan of grinding on the knuckles to dial in the saddle spacing. I preferred to make my own unit bearing spacers, weld them on and then have the excess machined off to both put the saddle where it goes centered on the rotor and to get rid of the warped face the welding creates.
If you think you haven't needed a stabilizer, then you are probably assuming it is doing something other than buffering the impacts the tires impart to the steering bits.
I'm familiar with Parts Mike, been doing business with them for quite awhile now.
Yup didn't find out about the Sport Trac rotors until already there, haven't looked to see if they would swap in if needed.
My understanding of the stabilizer is that it dampens any vibrations transferred into the solid axle system... which then can be magnified by any loose or worn parts or incorrect steering geometry... eventually turning into death wobble... or at least annoying shimmy (death wobbles 2nd cousin).
Grinding on the knuckles? It's been a while but I'm pretty sure mine lined up, no grinding needed... I did have to ream the top of the knuckle TRE and Drag link holes to go over the knuckle...
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