I run this bar it hasn’t failed and if it does,all the parts are at local parts store.
Removing Lift Back to Stock
- Thread starter Cameron23
- Start date
I run this bar it hasn’t failed and if it does,all the parts are at local parts store.
Got the bolt and sleeve cut out. It did require 2 cuts and I can confirm it was a major pain in the ass.
Was able to reuse the stock track bar without damaging it which was great. Everything lined up pretty well. Much less ratcheting than the front axle to get the track bar installed. Need to mount the shocks tonight and then put it back on the ground to do final torque on all the bolts.
The captive nuts on my pass side rear shock mount are… no longer captive. Previous owner just used nut and bolt in the existing holes. I’m hoping it all goes back together well using the same strategy but I’ve learned to not be optimistic.
Passenger side seems to have a newer hub or at least it’s shinier you can see the difference in the pictures. Not sure what that indicates as far as history. But it also has the back side of the drum coated in fluid not wet to the touch but definitely there. I suspect a seal leak on that side but it’s not my focus right now.
Was able to reuse the stock track bar without damaging it which was great. Everything lined up pretty well. Much less ratcheting than the front axle to get the track bar installed. Need to mount the shocks tonight and then put it back on the ground to do final torque on all the bolts.
The captive nuts on my pass side rear shock mount are… no longer captive. Previous owner just used nut and bolt in the existing holes. I’m hoping it all goes back together well using the same strategy but I’ve learned to not be optimistic.
Passenger side seems to have a newer hub or at least it’s shinier you can see the difference in the pictures. Not sure what that indicates as far as history. But it also has the back side of the drum coated in fluid not wet to the touch but definitely there. I suspect a seal leak on that side but it’s not my focus right now.
I think it's safe to say your rear axle seal is leaking. You can go on like that for a while, but it'll be dribbling out on your brake drums and that can't help stopping distance. Generally requires the bearing and it's retainer cut off, a new seal, bearing and retainer be pressed on with a 20T shop press and re-installation. If the right side is leaking, the left can't be far behind.
Agreed. Except the driver side looks completely dry. I just wonder if the pass rear axle was swapped out at some point as it looks nearly new as shown in the pictures especially compared to the driver side. It’s a concern for another day for sure. Haven’t even swapped fluid in the rear yet, plan to do that as soon as I get everything back to drivable.
This is what I’m thinking. Someone probably did a shit job installing a new axle.
Still need to do final torque on all bolts now that load is on it. But that’s for a different day.
Hell in a picture
You are a true warrior
I dont know what they put on the winter roads in Wenatchee, but I have been extremely fortunate to have not had to mess with what you have.
You are aware that caster is also an alignment setting?
Its kinda important
I did say "stock" TJ, which is where he's headed. Chrysler did away with the cam bolts.
You do know some TJs came stock with cam bolts?
The OP got that squared away in post #9 so there's that.
Took the Jeep in to Stomper Offroad a local Jeep shop to get the final alignment, weld that cracked rear track bar bracket, and quote me the rear brake leak fix while it’s in.
They got back to me that the rear brake leak was a mix of brake fluid and GL5 which meant my rear axle was leaking (which I feared). Turned out I didn’t have a “new” axle on the passenger side like I thought from the lack of rust. Apparently previous over just beat all the rust off of it with a hammer while trying to repair either the seal or bearing… Picture of my texts with shop owner.
Had them replace the passenger axle shaft, repair the damage to the axle tube and replace the seal and bearing.
I’ll be doing the brakes myself. And I’m just going to replace everything on both sides. Question for the group: it would appear that I have ABS in the back but not in the front. On Rock Auto when buying wheel cylinders they specify w/o ABS or w/ ABS 4 wheels.
Since I essentially have 2 wheel ABS which cylinders should I buy. There is a single brand that just says Rear w/ ABS but I worry that’s lack of info not specifically for 2 wheel ABS.
They got back to me that the rear brake leak was a mix of brake fluid and GL5 which meant my rear axle was leaking (which I feared). Turned out I didn’t have a “new” axle on the passenger side like I thought from the lack of rust. Apparently previous over just beat all the rust off of it with a hammer while trying to repair either the seal or bearing… Picture of my texts with shop owner.
Had them replace the passenger axle shaft, repair the damage to the axle tube and replace the seal and bearing.
I’ll be doing the brakes myself. And I’m just going to replace everything on both sides. Question for the group: it would appear that I have ABS in the back but not in the front. On Rock Auto when buying wheel cylinders they specify w/o ABS or w/ ABS 4 wheels.
Since I essentially have 2 wheel ABS which cylinders should I buy. There is a single brand that just says Rear w/ ABS but I worry that’s lack of info not specifically for 2 wheel ABS.
I guess I don’t understand what you mean. Could you provide more clarity? I assume Rock Auto is showing me cylinders for a Dana 35 ABS and Dana 44 no ABS since that is what came stock on TJs. I know I have a Dana 35 not a Dana 44. I see ABS teeth in that pic from Stomper which tells me my rear has ABS. My fronts didn’t have ABS.
I’m just thrown off by the specificity of them saying “All 4 wheels” when I know I only have ABS on the rear. Would I be good to buy the ones that say All 4 Wheels have ABS? Obviously not interested in the ones that say no ABS.
10-4. Makes sense. I was just overthinking the descriptions I guess.
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