Removing Lift Back to Stock
- Thread starter Cameron23
- Start date
I’ll admit I really am hoping that returning to stock everything will eliminate the need for centering and what not. I just put tires on and dropped to the ground to torque all the various “load required” bolts that need final torquing.
I plan to take it to the local Jeep shop when all is said and done for an alignment and to verify centering measurements and what not.
As of right now she looks about ready to hit the drag strip.
Edit: just glanced and I’m definitely not centered… which has me a bit perplexed. I’m nearly flush outside tire to fender on drivers side, and about an inch in from fender on passenger side…
Don’t really know what I would do about that. I still need to do the rear, I don’t know if that will do anything or not.
I plan to take it to the local Jeep shop when all is said and done for an alignment and to verify centering measurements and what not.
As of right now she looks about ready to hit the drag strip.
Edit: just glanced and I’m definitely not centered… which has me a bit perplexed. I’m nearly flush outside tire to fender on drivers side, and about an inch in from fender on passenger side…
Don’t really know what I would do about that. I still need to do the rear, I don’t know if that will do anything or not.
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A stock TJ has only one alignment setting, toe-in. And it's easy to do it yourself.
This is a way-too-long thread on the subject: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/
Read the first page. Ignore most of the rest. There is a LOT of discussion about proper measurements. Just make it 1/8" at 24" or 3/16" at 36", and ignore all of the nonsense about tire size, which has nothing to do with toe-in measurements.
This is a way-too-long thread on the subject: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/
Read the first page. Ignore most of the rest. There is a LOT of discussion about proper measurements. Just make it 1/8" at 24" or 3/16" at 36", and ignore all of the nonsense about tire size, which has nothing to do with toe-in measurements.
Right. Appreciate this info. But everything up front is back to stock, I haven’t done the back yet, but when I dropped it down it would appear that my axle is favoring the drive side by about an inch. How is that possible?
Get both ends lowered before you worry about needing adjustable track bars.
Get rid of those crappy tubular arms too.they are possibly longer to compensate for the lift. Stock flexes better,rides better and won't rip brackets off like those can.
When its all back to stock jump on the bumpers to settle it before looking at axle placement. Better yet go for a short drive to settle it.you can measure from the inside of the tires to the frame.it removes the guessing if the body is shifted on the frame from the equation.
Also,the toe in will change with the ride height. That needs adjusted
I have replacement stock front LCAs on there now. And will be replacing the tubulars on the rear as well. Had to cut out both front axle end LCA bolts. Found a carbide tooth Dewalt oscillating tool does well with the bolts if you have the 10 solid minutes for it to grind away at each bolt, and are willing to fork over the $25/each for the extreme metal Milwaukee ones.
All good advice to wait until I have the whole thing back down to stock height. Ultimately if I need to I’ll just get an adjustable track bar, but I don’t see how I could need one with stock everything.
If the spring height is more than 12" front or 8" rear with the weight of the jeep on it then the axles can be moved over.
The frame or a bracket could be bent,or the body shifted over on the frame.
Cheaper and easier to just toss on a bar like this one
https://www.roughcountry.com/product/adjustable-track-bar-7572
than to hand your jeep to a shop with a frame rack
About to start the rear. Two things:
I assume this is a track bar relocation bracket and needs to be removed and track bar reinstalled into the stock location where the bracket is currently installed.
Second, it looks like there is a break in the original track bar bracket. I assume I will need to get this welded. Or is it fine?
I assume this is a track bar relocation bracket and needs to be removed and track bar reinstalled into the stock location where the bracket is currently installed.
Second, it looks like there is a break in the original track bar bracket. I assume I will need to get this welded. Or is it fine?
Yeah I'd clean it up, v groove it with a grinder or die grinder, weld it up and grind it smooth.
-Mac
-Mac
Yeah unfortunately I don’t have a welder (yet) but I’ll just drive it over to the jeep shop I’m going to have do the fine tuning to get my alignment trued up and have them weld it up. I’m sure it’ll be fine for the drive over. That is all assuming of course the track bar and bracket come loose without much of a fight.
I’m currently cutting the lower control arm bolts out because… well… lower control arm bolts being lower control arm bolts.
I'd pretty much say owning a welder is pretty much a slightly advanced but still necessary tool for Jeep mods.
I recently bought an Everlast plasma cutter and am impressed with their cutters and welders. Going to buy a TIG box for aluminum from them one of these days.
-Mac
I recently bought an Everlast plasma cutter and am impressed with their cutters and welders. Going to buy a TIG box for aluminum from them one of these days.
-Mac
I should say. I have a welder, but I haven’t wired the proper outlet for it yet. It’s a YESWELDER runs on 220. Someday I’ll get it all up and running.
Side note to anyone cutting control arm
bolts that are seized. I’ve had too many cut off wheels blow up in my face in my time and at one point my leg actually was on the receiving end of an errant shard 0/10 would not recommend the experience. Anyway I moved to these bad boys. If you used light pressure and just let them eat they get through the bolts in about 5 min. And if you use the Extreme Metal ones, they’re pricey but I bought a 3 pack for $50, and each one lasts about 4 cuts (2-4 bolts depending on how many cuts per bolt) if using moderate pressure. Probably more if you just let them slowly chip away. Much safer than cut off wheels.
Got the TB relocation bracket off but had to cut all the bolt heads. And this MFer is stuck in the sleeve. Nut is off the back.. head is off the front. But it will not budge even with an air hammer. Current plan after the Chiefs game is to cut through the sleeve with the last 2 cut off blades ($$$) and remove the middle section. I’m very much over cutting bolts….
Thought about it… don’t want to mess up the hole. Plus it’s like 3 inches long. Drilling it out would take forever. Still need to be able to mount my track bar there. Just going to cut it out tomorrow.
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