Rear bumpstops

[jrfuda]

I am installing bump stops on my 05 LJ while performing my rancho 55255 and 55256 shocks install. PO did an RC 4" lift that I will eventually replace. There are no bump stops anywhere, just the jounces. I have a bumpstop kit, but the back looks weird. Most of the photos I've seen here show a cylinder between the spring perch and the cup. This is missing from mine. Without this spacer/cylinder I need over 4" of pucks with the suspension cycled. The photo shows full articulation up if the ranchos were installed. Is there something I can install to get some space behind the cup so I only need 2 or 3 pucks. Front needed 3 cups. Thank you. Photos with and without pucks for reference.

 

[Ir0nH3@d]

you can add bump stop extension above the cup. i like to add a bit above and a bit to the lower pad in the rear to keep the bumpstop from rubbing the coils.

I wouldnt use hockey pucks, they will deteriorate rapidly. Zone sells 3" universal bump stop extensions for ~$13 per pair.
https://zoneoffroad.com/collections/bump-stops

 

[macleanflood]

Like this?

https://jksmfg.com/products/adjustable-bump-stop-extensions-1

-Mac

 

[Tob]

That seems like excessive bump stop extension. Are you sure you have the correct length shocks? Is there room for more uptravel without the shocks?

Unrelated but valid question: how do you have a 4” lift without adjustable rear upper control arms? Do you not have driveline vibrations?

 

[jrfuda]

Thanks everyone.

you can add bump stop extension above the cup. i like to add a bit above and a bit to the lower pad in the rear to keep the bumpstop from rubbing the coils.

I wouldnt use hockey pucks, they will deteriorate rapidly. Zone sells 3" universal bump stop extensions for ~$13 per pair.
https://zoneoffroad.com/collections/bump-stops

The pucks are not hockey pucks - they are components of this kit: https://metalcloak.com/universal-adjustable-bump-stop-system-1-4.html Not sure how much better they are than hockey pucks, but I guess I'll find out.

If I use that aluminum spacer, I just put it between the cup and the upper perch?

That seems like excessive bump stop extension. Are you sure you have the correct length shocks? Is there room for more uptravel without the shocks?

Unrelated but valid question: how do you have a 4” lift without adjustable rear upper control arms? Do you not have driveline vibrations?

I purchased the ranchos recommended in the forum for a 4" lift, which also matched my measurements. With the jeep supported on the frames I can maybe get another 1/4 inch of up travel on the rear axle with the trackbar disconnected and coil springs removed. I need to see if there is something else in the way. This is without wheels/tires too, so I don't know if I'll have any rub there yet.

I have a vibration-free drivetrain at the moment, I believe, because it is an LJ and the PO dropped the TC an inch when they did the lift.

That said, I have adjustable control arms and track bars on the way. I'm pretty much replacing all the suspension components except for the springs (for now) as they have not sagged nearly 4 years after the previous owner installed them. I have all the parts I have installed, on hand, or on order listed in my profile. End state is 4" suspension lift, 1.5" body lift (complete), 1" MML (on hand), savvy UA TC & Engine Skids (coming Friday), JB Conversions SSSYE (on hand), Tom Wood DC rear drive shaft (waiting to order). I am going to do the DIY stock fuel tank skid tuck. I have CurrectLync steering ready to install and JKS adjustable track bars on the way. I already installed a BMB Vanco 16" big brake kit.

Right now I'm trying to get the bump stops and shocks as close to right as possible as I wait for the control arms to come in. Once stops and shocks are done I was going to do the currectlync and track bars - test drive and tweak - and then swap out the control arms (which are 2-3 weeks from delivery), test drive and tweak, then maybe do the tummy tuck and related work. I have plenty of little things to keep me busy while I wait for parts. I spend about 2 hours in the garage each morning before work and maybe a total of 6 hours on the weekends, so it's slow going.

Thank you again for the assistance.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Thanks everyone.


The pucks are not hockey pucks - they are components of this kit...

I'm pretty sure they started out as hockey pucks before MetalCloak drilled holes in them. Here are mine, from a box of hockey pucks:

Mine are 3 years old and are not breaking down yet.

 

[jrfuda]

I'm pretty sure they started out as hockey pucks before MetalCloak drilled holes in them. Here are mine, from a box of hockey pucks:

Mine are 3 years old and are not breaking down yet.

That's good to know. Someone called them out as being hockey pucks on metalcloak's site and they swore they were not. I guess I'll see what happens.

I think I will get the JKS adjustable kit so I can dial it in better since it has so many combinations and not just 1" at a time. I'll use the aluminum JKS kit up top between the perch and cup and maybe just one puck on the bottom, or whatever combination makes them meet in the middle the best, especially since I'll eventually be changing the orientation of the axle with the TT and DC Drive shaft. Maybe by then my welding skills will have gotten to the point I'll be comfortable relocating the perches.

 

[Apparition]

That's good to know. Someone called them out as being hockey pucks on metalcloak's site and they swore they were not. I guess I'll see what happens.

I think I will get the JKS adjustable kit so I can dial it in better since it has so many combinations and not just 1" at a time. I'll use the aluminum JKS kit up top between the perch and cup and maybe just one puck on the bottom, or whatever combination makes them meet in the middle the best, especially since I'll eventually be changing the orientation of the axle with the TT and DC Drive shaft. Maybe by then my welding skill swill have gotten to the point I'll be comfortable relocating the perches.

The MC are almost hockey pucks but they aren’t. One side is concave and one is convex, they nest together.

 

[JMT]

That's good to know. Someone called them out as being hockey pucks on metalcloak's site and they swore they were not. I guess I'll see what happens.

I think I will get the JKS adjustable kit so I can dial it in better since it has so many combinations and not just 1" at a time. I'll use the aluminum JKS kit up top between the perch and cup and maybe just one puck on the bottom, or whatever combination makes them meet in the middle the best, especially since I'll eventually be changing the orientation of the axle with the TT and DC Drive shaft. Maybe by then my welding skills will have gotten to the point I'll be comfortable relocating the perches.

Bumpstops in the front go on the lower perch only.

Bumpstops in the rear go on the upper perch.

 

[Superjay5]

Bumpstops in the front go on the lower perch only.

Bumpstops in the rear go on the upper perch.

Says who? Rockjock would like a word with you

 

[jjvw]

Says who? Rockjock would like a word with you

RockJock goes both sides!

 

[Superjay5]

RockJock goes both sides!

Exactly

 

[srimes]

RockJock goes both sides!

The metalcloak spacers sure look like hockey pucks, and I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't made by a hokey puck manufacturer.
Hockey pucks are cheap and work great for years.

I went with prothane coil spring inserts for a much more progressive bump force when driving fast. It does require a little welding to mount in the rear..
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/considering-going-smaller-7-35s-to-5-33s.77680/post-1570393

 

[JMT]

Says who? Rockjock would like a word with you

I guess I need to upgrade. The description sounds like it does something to hold the springs in better at full articulation. Is that correct? Are they saying that because the washers dimensions extend over the perch edges they retain the coil spring? Im going to half to modify my upcoming plans.

Is it better to add a 0.5” spacer on top or bottom in the rear?

 

[jjvw]

I guess I need to upgrade. The description sounds like it does something to hold the springs in better at full articulation. Is that correct? Are they saying that because the washers dimensions extend over the perch edges they retain the coil spring? Im going to half to modify my upcoming plans.

Is it better to add a 0.5” spacer on top or bottom in the rear?

If the shocks don't hold the springs in place, then the RJ rear bump stops will.

The spacers only go in one way, if you use them.

RJ bump stops will change how you talk about bump stops because they do not have a hard defined stop. They are only a jounce and the shock is the hard limit to up travel.

 

[Tob]

Thanks everyone.


The pucks are not hockey pucks - they are components of this kit: https://metalcloak.com/universal-adjustable-bump-stop-system-1-4.html Not sure how much better they are than hockey pucks, but I guess I'll find out.

If I use that aluminum spacer, I just put it between the cup and the upper perch?



I purchased the ranchos recommended in the forum for a 4" lift, which also matched my measurements. With the jeep supported on the frames I can maybe get another 1/4 inch of up travel on the rear axle with the trackbar disconnected and coil springs removed. I need to see if there is something else in the way. This is without wheels/tires too, so I don't know if I'll have any rub there yet.

I have a vibration-free drivetrain at the moment, I believe, because it is an LJ and the PO dropped the TC an inch when they did the lift.

That said, I have adjustable control arms and track bars on the way. I'm pretty much replacing all the suspension components except for the springs (for now) as they have not sagged nearly 4 years after the previous owner installed them. I have all the parts I have installed, on hand, or on order listed in my profile. End state is 4" suspension lift, 1.5" body lift (complete), 1" MML (on hand), savvy UA TC & Engine Skids (coming Friday), JB Conversions SSSYE (on hand), Tom Wood DC rear drive shaft (waiting to order). I am going to do the DIY stock fuel tank skid tuck. I have CurrectLync steering ready to install and JKS adjustable track bars on the way. I already installed a BMB Vanco 16" big brake kit.

Right now I'm trying to get the bump stops and shocks as close to right as possible as I wait for the control arms to come in. Once stops and shocks are done I was going to do the currectlync and track bars - test drive and tweak - and then swap out the control arms (which are 2-3 weeks from delivery), test drive and tweak, then maybe do the tummy tuck and related work. I have plenty of little things to keep me busy while I wait for parts. I spend about 2 hours in the garage each morning before work and maybe a total of 6 hours on the weekends, so it's slow going.

Thank you again for the assistance.

Sounds like you are on track. However, you should leave the track bar connected while cycling the suspension. In the rear, it can limit up travel by hitting the crossmember above it and can limit down travel by binding the suspension. In the front, it can hit the differential cover, steering linkage, etc.

 

[JMT]

The spacers only go in one way, if you use them.

I’m asking about a spring spacer. The passenger side is about 7/8” lower in that corner than the driver corner, so I wanted to add a bit of lift to get it closer to right. OME has the 10mm spacer that goes in the lower perch, but I’m asking where a spacer should go with RJ bumpstop setup.

 

[jjvw]

I’m asking about a spring spacer. The passenger side is about 7/8” lower in that corner than the driver corner, so I wanted to add a bit of lift to get it closer to right. OME has the 10mm spacer that goes in the lower perch, but I’m asking where a spacer should go with RJ bumpstop setup.

A spring spacer can only go on the top side. And it cannot be thick enough to interfere with the bump stop that fits over the nub on the spring seat where the cup used to attach.

 

[bty34]

A spring spacer can only go on the top side. And it cannot be thick enough to interfere with the bump stop that fits over the nub on the spring seat where the cup used to attach.

You can go up to a 1" spacer up top with the rockjock bumpstops.

 

[JMT]

You can go up to a 1" spacer up top with the rockjock bumpstops.

View attachment 578407

Nice. Thanks!