Pitman arm replacement

nickk2265

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Original poster
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Jul 2, 2025
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Location
Tucson, AZ
2002 TJ Sahara. I am replacing all the front end linkage components: tie rod, track bar, drag link, steering damper, and pitman arm. All the old components are off. First to go back on is the Pitman arm, then I will do the track bar, etc. So the question is about the pitman arm: I have centered the steering wheel (all the way to left lock, then all the way to the right lock, turn back half the turns.) The sector shaft is now having the "flat" (there are four of them, every 90 degrees) pointing straight down/forward. The new pitman arm has four corresponding flats, and to the best of my ability I am lining them up correctly, and then pushing up the pitman arm onto the sector shaft to start it. But when I start cranking the lock washer and tightening nut to seat the pitman arm all the way up the sector shaft, the pitman arm starts rotating, as does the steering gears and wheel. Google and ChatGPT searches tell me I am not aligning the "flats" correctly and that if I do, then I can tighten the nut without the steering wheel turning more than a few degrees due to "gear lash". So sorry for the long winded description, and possibly for my relative inexperience and lack of understanding, but I can't understand how the steering should not start turning when tightening the pitman arm... the nut and locking washer are touching the pitman arm; turning the nut, by friction engages the pitman arm; the pitman arm is at least partially engaging the splines on the sector shaft; so everything turns. What am I missing? I am fully prepared to be called stupid, so please let loose, just make sure there is some actionable advice in there! Thanks in advance.
 
All that means is tightening the nut takes more force than it takes to spin the gearbox. That is not a big deal. Eventually you’ll reach the internal stop on the steering gear and you can tighten the nut as normal. Or you can hook up a tie rod end to hold the pitman still.
 
All that means is tightening the nut takes more force than it takes to spin the gearbox. That is not a big deal. Eventually you’ll reach the internal stop on the steering gear and you can tighten the nut as normal. Or you can hook up a tie rod end to hold the pitman still.

Thank you!
 
Don't ask chatgpt. Put the old pitman back on if it isn't broken.tighten the nut fully once all the other parts are on. Hopefully not a bunch of cheap Chinese parts

Thank you! I am using the Moog “upgrade” from the grand Cherokee tie rod DS1312 (solid 1” diameter one), plus JKS OGS126 adjustable track bar, Omix-Ada pitman arm (not dropped, OE style), Moog drag link DS 1430, and Monroe Magnum SC2928 steering damper.
 
Thank you! I am using the Moog “upgrade” from the grand Cherokee tie rod DS1312 (solid 1” diameter one), plus JKS OGS126 adjustable track bar, Omix-Ada pitman arm (not dropped, OE style), Moog drag link DS 1430, and Monroe Magnum SC2928 steering damper.

And why are you replacing the pitman arm?
 
And why are you replacing the pitman arm?

Good question! Because I am not smart, is the right answer! There was nothing functionally wrong with it, I just wanted a nice shiny new part instead of the old rusty one. Had I known the trouble this part was (removing it was a struggle) I would have left well enough alone.
 
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Good question! Because I am not smart, is the right answer! There was nothing functionally wrong with it, I just wanted a nice shiny new part instead of the old rusty one. Had I known the trouble this part was (removing it was a struggle) I would have left well enough alone.

Exactly why when I needed a new gearbox, I bought a new pittman. It wasn't worth the fight getting the old one off, especially since a new one was cheap.