Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Parasitic electrical drain

gatertamer

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Does anyone know if a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator can cause a parasitic electrical drain even with a battery kill switch installed?…if so how to test it….I’ve done the multimeter test twice pulling every fuse and relay…no change in the reading…alternator reads over 14 volts when running ?
 
My th
If the battery isn't connected to anything and it's still draining then you have a faulty battery.

Or the switch isn't actually disconnecting things.

-Mac

my thoughts exactly…. 2 new batteries and when you click the off button on the remote everything shuts off like it is supposed to .
 
Have you verified the remote is actually shutting things off?

How much amperage does this remote draw? That could be your phantom load.

-Mac
 
Have you verified the remote is actually shutting things off?

How much amperage does this remote draw? That could be your phantom load.

-Mac

It uses 3ma…. Yeah I’ve turned on several accessories then hit the remote and they all shut off…front flood lights…underhood led light…stereo…amp…
IMG_0738.jpeg
etc. the only thing I haven’t checked yet are the reverse floodlights I mounted on the bumper….it is the second kill switch I have tried.
 
Easiest way to determine is to get a digital volt meter with mA capabilities. Disconnect the neg cable and put the meter in line set at 10amps to start and see what you get. You can set the meter lower for smaller draw settings and again see what you have draw wise and go from there. The only other thing I can think of is RE your batteries. One bad one can bring down one good one if they are not isolated. Ive seen new batteries on store shelves that were over a year old already. Personally Id never buy one of them new or not as they/it is already compromised. Should be a little round sticky on the battery side with its mgf date.
 
Easiest way to determine is to get a digital volt meter with mA capabilities. Disconnect the neg cable and put the meter in line set at 10amps to start and see what you get. You can set the meter lower for smaller draw settings and again see what you have draw wise and go from there. The only other thing I can think of is RE your batteries. One bad one can bring down one good one if they are not isolated. Ive seen new batteries on store shelves that were over a year old already. Personally Id never buy one of them new or not as they/it is already compromised. Should be a little round sticky on the battery side with its mgf date.

No need to disconnect or change lead configurations if you use this (works as well as my my expensive tool).

https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Digital-Clamp-Meter/dp/B0D7PDZNNG?tag=wranglerorg-20

(I have the 6000)
 
It uses 3ma…. Yeah I’ve turned on several accessories then hit the remote and they all shut off…front flood lights…underhood led light…stereo…amp…View attachment 654021etc. the only thing I haven’t checked yet are the reverse floodlights I mounted on the bumper….it is the second kill switch I have tried.

What kill switch are you using?
 
I’ve got 2 multimeters…I was just asking if the internal voltage regulator can cause the drain…I’ve googled it..just trying to verify it

I know how everyone likes pictures so I’ll send a few..there’s rear flood lights, front flood lights, two under seat subwoofers, stereo/nav system, winch, two e lockers, overhead display system, and dash cam…can’t figure out which one is draining IMG_0749.jpegIMG_0748.jpegIMG_0747.jpegIMG_0746.jpegIMG_0745.jpegIMG_0744.jpegIMG_0743.jpegIMG_0742.jpegIMG_0741.jpeg
 
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Maybe the switch itself is the problem, as in it has an internal fault? Try taking the switch off the battery terminal and see what happens.

I’m in the process of doing that right now…again this is the second one I just got…when you click off on the remote everything shuts I lose all power?
 
I’m in the process of doing that right now…again this is the second one I just got…when you click off on the remote everything shuts I lose all power?

All that means is the load (the Jeep side) is disconnected. The switch’s voltage monitoring circuitry could be drawing a lot of current from the battery.
 
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All that means is the load (the Jeep side) is disconnected. The switch’s voltage monitoring circuitry could be drawing a lot of current from the battery.

Believe me I hear you brother, but both the switches I’ve used only use 3 ma’s which is nothing… I just got it running now…I’m gonna charge up the battery and disconnect everything from the battery and check it later tonight
 
After weeks of testing everything it turns out to be a bad brand new napa battery….I removed both terminals and let it sit for a few days watching the volts drop about .2 per day….then brought it to napa and they tested it said the same thing. So after charging it it tested at 12.6 volts even passed the battery load test but just wouldn’t hold a charge….always go with the most obvious I guess.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator