Painting prep question

[TJ4ord]

"Was" many moons ago, but the process is still applicable.



They do appear to be in excellent condition, damage and paint-wise. Not sure what you gave for them but a solid find for what they are.



I would NOT do this unless there is a good reason to, and I can't see one from here (but I'm not there). Unless there's an issue with the existing finish (adhesion issues, finish build-up, rust under finish, poor application, etc.) there is no need to cut through it, though you do need to prep it.

5 minute refinishing list:

• Before you do much of anything, I'd hang them on your Jeep and check the alignment, now is the time to make adjustments. I'd get the hinges properly located on both doors now. Edit: I note there are no hinges on the doors and there IS paint where the hinges would be, I suspect these have already been refinished or were replacement doors, Chrysler did not paint under the hinges at the factory (cuz they're cheap bastards!)
• Before doing any sanding, wash the doors (with original Dawn) and let them dry, then give them a once over with wax and grease remover (prepsol). You are aiming to remove any finish products applied previously as well as any general shit that's accumulated on the existing paint surface. If you sand before removing the foreign material, you'll be sanding it into the finish which can cause issues with the final results.
• Strip the doors of all weather strip, door cards and external hardware (door handle, lock cylinder).
• Once stripped, clean any areas previously covered with the prepsol.
• After that decide what you want to do with the scratches, if they aren't through to metal, I'd probably use a catalyzed glazing putty and/or 2k filling primer to fix.
• Post any sanding for scratch repairs (no coarser than 320), I'd probably work from 400 to 800 (at least 600) on the existing clear and primered repair areas, preferably by machine where possible (soft pad sand jambs). Edit: When moving through sanding grits, I tend to jump no more than 80-100 grit at a time up to 600. You risk not eliminating the previous scratches if you jump too far in grit.
• Prep for paint (prepsol, blow, mask, tack)
• Shoot a 2k epoxy as a sealer followed by color and 2k clear, full coverage.

The noted 2k materials would be in rattle can form, it is possible to get a really nice job from these products (I use SprayMAX). Perfect world you'd be shooting with a good filtered air system and an HVLP gun...if you have that option, I'd go for it and good on ya.

 

[chili_pepper]

The products you choose may note specific sandpaper grits, follow the instructions for those products. The above grits are general rule.

 

[TJ4ord]

The products you choose may note specific sandpaper grits, follow the instructions for those products. The above grits are general rule.

Yes, I purchased primer, Flame Red PR4 spray cans, and SprayMax 2K Urethane Clearcoat from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/. I've rattle can spray painted several things, including a set of JK Tube Doors but this is by far the biggest thing I've done. That being said, I'm still a little nervous but hey, the worst thing that can happen is I would just have to redo them!

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[chili_pepper]

Yes, I purchased primer, Flame Red PR4 spray cans, and SprayMax 2K Urethane Clearcoat from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/. I've rattle can spray painted several things, including a set of JK Tube Doors but this is by far the biggest thing I've done. That being said, I'm still a little nervous but hey, the worst thing that can happen is I would just have to redo them!

​

You're spraying a solid color (as opposed to metallic) so that's a benefit. Spraying is about precision of movement and consistency in pace, both of which are dependent upon the spray gear and material. The key with the color will be consistent coverage, you want a nice even base color across the panel. If you're concerned about dealing with dirt in the finish product, maybe throw an extra coat of clear on when you get to that point. If you "hang curtains" in the clear, that can often be fixed as well. Nibbers and fine grit wetsanding paper are cheap, you can fix a lot of imperfections with time and elbow grease, but only if there's enough sprayed material applied to work with.

Prep is everything (and not just the parts, the spray area as well). Take your time. Let the products set per instructions (SprayMax has great product application info on their website, BTW), tack between coats if you have concerns of dust. Test panels are a good idea for figuring out how best to work with the product (spray fan, overlap, speed) as well as color match, though with the system you're using there's little you can do if the match isn't good. With rattle cans, I tend to warm my cans in the sink beforehand (bagged) and shake them religiously before and throughout. Absolutely critical for 2k materials. If you have a little left over after being catalyzed, you can extend the pot life by throwing the cans in your refrigerator crisper drawer. The wife will love you for it.

 

[TJ4ord]

You're spraying a solid color (as opposed to metallic) so that's a benefit. Spraying is about precision of movement and consistency in pace, both of which are dependent upon the spray gear and material. The key with the color will be consistent coverage, you want a nice even base color across the panel. If you're concerned about dealing with dirt in the finish product, maybe throw an extra coat of clear on when you get to that point. If you "hang curtains" in the clear, that can often be fixed as well. Nibbers and fine grit wetsanding paper are cheap, you can fix a lot of imperfections with time and elbow grease, but only if there's enough sprayed material applied to work with.

Prep is everything (and not just the parts, the spray area as well). Take your time. Let the products set per instructions (SprayMax has great product application info on their website, BTW), tack between coats if you have concerns of dust. Test panels are a good idea for figuring out how best to work with the product (spray fan, overlap, speed) as well as color match, though with the system you're using there's little you can do if the match isn't good. With rattle cans, I tend to warm my cans in the sink beforehand (bagged) and shake them religiously before and throughout. Absolutely critical for 2k materials. If you have a little left over after being catalyzed, you can extend the pot life by throwing the cans in your refrigerator crisper drawer. The wife will love you for it.

Thanks for your great advice!

 

[taylormade73]

Yeah, too bad the doors are Impact Orange and you need Flame Red!

You’ll do pretty good. If it doesn’t turn out you’ll do better the next time. I’ve done half doors, corner armor, tailgate armor, and portions of front fenders. I started with cans and moved to spray guns.

I wish they were Impact Orange; I’d be all over them. Look more like Amber Fire Pearl.

 

[TJ4ord]

I wish they were Impact Orange; I’d be all over them. Look more like Amber Fire Pearl.

Yup, that's what they appear to be. The PO didn't know the color I only paid $400 (can you say steal) for them and the black inside panels are great too!

 

[chili_pepper]

I only paid $400 (can you say steal)

I can, and now I must go away and hate you a little.

the black inside panels

Black or gray/slate door cards? If black, might they be from a YJ?

 

[JMT]

I wish they were Impact Orange; I’d be all over them. Look more like Amber Fire Pearl.

I had my color filter on in the night. I’ve always liked the Amber Fire Pearl. I love Impact Orange too. Your post reminded me you picked one up. One of the best colors.

 

[TJ4ord]

I can, and now I must go away and hate you a little.



Black or gray/slate door cards? If black, might they be from a YJ?

View attachment 608225

Actually gray slate, they always appear darker to me. They are definitely from a TJ.

I had my color filter on in the night. I’ve always liked the Amber Fire Pearl. I love Impact Orange too. Your post reminded me you picked one up. One of the best colors.

Yup, I agree. I really like the orange but I could not pass up my Flame Red '04 Rubicon last yr for only $6500. Great condition, zero frame rust. It does have 169,000 mi. but the 4.0 can handle it. Runs great. I've gave it some TLC and a 2.5" lift w/32's.

 

[taylormade73]

Yup, that's what they appear to be. The PO didn't know the color I only paid $400 (can you say steal) for them and the black inside panels are great too!

That’s average for what half doors go for here in Ohio and surrounding states.