Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Operation Phoenix

Ok...back at it this morning. Fabbed up a nice track bar bracket, realized it wouldn't work and made a new one that drops the pivot point down 2.5". Axle is off center 1/8" but close enough to cycle IMHO. I did cut 1/2" off the track bar and it looks like I have 3/4" adjustment either way.

When I drop the shocks all the way to the bump stop I have three inches left of travel...not ideal. Might need to drop the towers lower...but at ride height I am exactly at six.

Time to test articulation.

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-Mac
 
Mac, if you haven't already, don't burn it in. Double check, triple check, take a break and then check again. There's no going back once it's burned in

Damn Right..... Won't mention those times I'd wished I'd tripled checked myself over the past 4 years... And then triple checked again...
 
Well I cycled it w few more times and burned it in.

Knocked off the axle mount and adjusted it up and 1/8". The 1/2" heims located the center correctly but the shock would install the but was in a tight bind. Got all that corrected.

Track bar mount may need tweaked. Or the joint is messed up. Waiting for the rebuild kit...but it binds up about halfway through its arc. Won't take much to cut it off, move it forward a half inch and tweak the angle.

Gas tank straps were barely long enough...but with the extra tweaks to the skid they wouldn't reach. Luckily I had some 8' M8 bolts I stripped off a car we recovered from the woods...so I cut the heads off and cut off the bolts on the straps and welding everything up.

Tank is mostly up. Replaced one riv nut...was stripped. Battery was at 5v from all the vampire loads I have on the Jeep and I neglected to plug in the maintainer a week or so ago. Electronic chargers don't know what to do so Ive got it plugged into a 50 year old charger that just does 14v and 6 amps. That'll get it up to a range one of the "smart" chargers can work.

I want to cycle the fuel pump a few times and check for leaks before I bolt it up. Going to have to straighten out some of the factory bends and rig up good places to secure the line so it never meets the track bar mount again.

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-Mac
 
Well I cycled it w few more times and burned it in.

Knocked off the axle mount and adjusted it up and 1/8". The 1/2" heims located the center correctly but the shock would install the but was in a tight bind. Got all that corrected.

Track bar mount may need tweaked. Or the joint is messed up. Waiting for the rebuild kit...but it binds up about halfway through its arc. Won't take much to cut it off, move it forward a half inch and tweak the angle.

Gas tank straps were barely long enough...but with the extra tweaks to the skid they wouldn't reach. Luckily I had some 8' M8 bolts I stripped off a car we recovered from the woods...so I cut the heads off and cut off the bolts on the straps and welding everything up.

Tank is mostly up. Replaced one riv nut...was stripped. Battery was at 5v from all the vampire loads I have on the Jeep and I neglected to plug in the maintainer a week or so ago. Electronic chargers don't know what to do so Ive got it plugged into a 50 year old charger that just does 14v and 6 amps. That'll get it up to a range one of the "smart" chargers can work.

I want to cycle the fuel pump a few times and check for leaks before I bolt it up. Going to have to straighten out some of the factory bends and rig up good places to secure the line so it never meets the track bar mount again.

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-Mac

Even though your bumpstops were touching, they can compress about 3/4", so you can take that away from your measurements. What did your travel ratio end up being?
 
Even though your bumpstops were touching, they can compress about 3/4", so you can take that away from your measurements. What did your travel ratio end up being?

I think I'm pretty close to 50/50 but that's all weight dependent.

With adjusting the lower mount I have about 2" of shock when it first touches the bump stops. I feel this is conservatively safe.

At full shock extension the Currie spring retainers are just starting to work and the spring is every so slightly loose.

-Mac
 
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You're leaving a lot of travel on the table with where you're at.

Yup. I'd need mid/long arms and more work to get it.

Right now I just want better shocks that don't smash into things.

I bought the shocks I'll eventually need.

The limit is the track bar and I'll fix that.

Checked the battery...it was 11.6...switched to the smart charger and cycled the fuel pump a few times. 50 psi and no leaks.

-Mac
 
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Yup. I'd need mid/long arms and more work to get it.

Right now I just want better shocks that don't smash into things.

I bought the shocks I'll eventually need.

The limit is the track bar and I'll fix that.

Checked the battery...it was 11.6...switched to the smart charger and cycled the fuel pump a few times. 50 psi and no leaks.

-Mac

Unless I'm missing something special on yours, the arm length isn't the issue. We've done a handful of outboards split 50/50 with 12" shocks on short arm (and track bar) builds before we ever even planned midarms.

Your driver side full bump leaves a lot of shaft showing - that's all lost travel.
 
Ok...any suggestions for tucking this exhaust up another inch...do they make a tighter exhaust rubber hanger? I can move the hanger up but I'd only get a half inch and the rubber would be tight into the frame.

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-Mac

I switched to an aftermarket hanger. Might even be able to leave the tailpipe section stock and just change to this style hanger. Probably not the strongest option but it’s cheap enough to replace if it bends/wears out the bushing.

Edit: coffee hadn’t kicked in, stock tailpipe hanger would be perpendicular to this, still options if you have the welder out anyways.

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Ok...both nylon fuel lines I made with Dorman parts are leaking at the barb.

So I need a fuel line. I guess easy solution is steal one from my 2k part out. But I sure would like something new. And slightly longer.

The frame fuel line is slightly tweaked. Wonder if it's worth it to run 3/8 all the way to the rail. Hmm.

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-Mac
 
Ok...both nylon fuel lines I made with Dorman parts are leaking at the barb.

So I need a fuel line. I guess easy solution is steal one from my 2k part out. But I sure would like something new. And slightly longer.

The frame fuel line is slightly tweaked. Wonder if it's worth it to run 3/8 all the way to the rail. Hmm.

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-Mac

No reason to replace the steel 5.16" line as long as it's working.
6AN line to replace the front & rear stock lines would be my suggestion.

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Here's his post about them: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/4-cylinder-cross-country-crawler-build.65848/post-1785926
 
We have clearance Clarence. Had to bleed the brakes for some strange reason but it's tight and firm and those BMB stop on a dime.

Used my dump trailer and winch to do slow controlled flex tests. Everything looks great.

Thanks everyone for the input and support.

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-Mac
 
Ok...so I ordered Evil Energy stuff off Amazon to make an AN fuel line.

Then I did some research. Found a forum post that explains it well...

https://nastyz28.com/threads/how-to-nylon-fuel-line-without-expensive-tool.220894/

Basically it's a caulk gun and a old school brake flare tool. I now have a leak free nylon fuel line.

Proceeding with reassembly.

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-Mac

Looks like a easy fix... Now we'll see have to see how it holds up. Hope it does.

We have clearance Clarence. Had to bleed the brakes for some strange reason but it's tight and firm and those BMB stop on a dime.

Used my dump trailer and winch to do slow controlled flex tests. Everything looks great.

Thanks everyone for the input and support.

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-Mac

Now once you get some seat time it'll be interesting to see what you think of the outboard and short arms....
 
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I just want to do a wheeling trip this year without major repairs.

Sigh...two of my skid plate bolts are gone. Grr.

-Mac

You & me BOTH..... I'd LVOE to come home and just need to do some minor cleaning and repairs... But we're both getting there.

If my damn leg would finish healing I could get working.
 
Say the word if you need a couple extra hands for a couple of days. I just need a tree I can park my Jeep next to.

-Mac

Right now I'm more waiting on parts.... Leg is almost healed up I think but I appreciate the offer. If it gets closer and I need help I'll let you know.

I think we're both getting closer to having shit figured out.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts