New Wizard / BMB tail lights?

[mrblaine]

Will it fit in a flat rate envelope? Pretty sure those are cheaper to send.

Yes and no, unless you do flat rate, then you are back to calculating shipping to each address or you stick an average on there which is between the high and low and hope no one gets screwed. The studs are also problematic in an envelope. They will poke through unless you pack around them and now you're back to adding more cost and time.

 

[MikekiM]

Nice. Order in!!

 

[Moglocker]

Neither, they are both stainless steel. The studs are also stainless as are the mounting screws into the body and the license plate screws. The only parts that are not stainless are the LED plate light and the nyloc nuts. If you use a SS nyloc on a SS fastener, they will gall and ruin something. The actual color is closer to what is shown below but the highlight reflection makes it look dumb on the website.

View attachment 478614

Nice,hoping for stainless,ya it kind of looks hammertone?in the pics

 

[P man]

Have you seen how those get handled??

You mean bent in half lol

 

[psrivats]

You mean bent in half lol

I will be happy if it were only half

 

[D's Jeep Wrld]

Not gonna lie as much as i want to order the black ones the silver look is growing on me !
Just not sure if the silver would look good on the white ? I'll see
I just need to finish my damn jeep and get it running, i keep getting stuck buying all these little things reason being by me saying "well since im arleady here i might as well just - " ect

 

[mrblaine]

Not gonna lie as much as i want to order the black ones the silver look is growing on me !
Just not sure if the silver would look good on the white ? I'll see
I just need to finish my damn jeep and get it running, i keep getting stuck buying all these little things reason being by me saying "well since im arleady here i might as well just - " ect

We have 75 sets of black, 3 sets of silver.

 

[D's Jeep Wrld]

We have 75 sets of black, 3 sets of silver.

Thats good to know.

 

[voodooridr]

My bonus ground wire was leaning up against my front door when I got home last night, new crimpers arrived Thursday and it snowed overnight, looks like I'm crimping wires today

 

[mrblaine]

My bonus ground wire was leaning up against my front door when I got home last night, new crimpers arrived Thursday and it snowed overnight, looks like I'm crimping wires today

In other news, we found a box that may be good enough to ship the relocator kit in a padded envelope. That let us drop the price and we'll keep it there until experience shows that it is a bad idea.

FYI, it isn't a bonus wire if we are fixing our dumb mistake and getting you what you paid for.

 

[voodooridr]

Thank you for your level of business integrity, not many people willing to do it "right" supplying bits for an obsolete platform

 

[Mclovin]

Well, I ordered these last weekend and they were in my hands in a few days and now final install. I knew prior to mounting that my Morryde Tire Carrier was going to have to be trimmed. Got the housings mocked up, traced out and proceeded to cut/grind about 3/4 inch of the plate. Trim job could have been better but my band saw depth wasn't able to handle the whole piece.

Just a heads up for those with the Morryde Tire Carrier, there will be a little more to the install. Blaine's instructions were probably the best I have ever dealt with, straight forward and very clear !

Only other issue I ran into, the body on the Driverside did not allow the housing to sit flat (this was a body issue), instructions mention to use a dead blow to push in the high spots. I did this but the body had a tin can effect which allowed the light to move with the body. A little more persuading with dead blow and the tin can effect was taken care of. This could also be fixed by using the additional mounting holes.



View attachment 476431

View attachment 476434

View attachment 476439

Thanks Black Magic Brakes

Looks great, but makes me sad. Very doubtful I buy a grinder and remove the morryde. Looks like I have to suffer with the inferior stock lights.

thanks for posting this…I had not thought about size difference.

Cobet

 

[voodooridr]

Looks great, but makes me sad. Very doubtful I buy a grinder and remove the morryde. Looks like I have to suffer with the inferior stock lights.

thanks for posting this…I had not thought about size difference.

Cobet

No need to grind on the MorRyde, 1/4 sheet of ABS to fill in the gap
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/exogate-morryde-tailgate-reinforcement-savvy-tail-lights.62543/

 

[Sudo]

Thanks for the kind words. In reality, we use a hammer to smack the holes in so the housings sit flush. However, I'm not in the market for all the grief I'd get putting that in the instructions.

What if the tin can effect is there? I've got a little of that effect on the driver's side around lowest hole area.

 

[MikekiM]

What if the tin can effect is there? I've got a little of that effect on the driver's side around lowest hole area.

I’ve got everything wired and ready for the relocation kit. Got a new-to-me license plate plastic thingy thanks to @JMT

what is the ‘tin can effect’?

 

[mrblaine]

I’ve got everything wired and ready for the relocation kit. Got a new-to-me license plate plastic thingy thanks to @JMT

what is the ‘tin can effect’?

The stock screws pull the holes in the tub outward so the housing sits on them and not the tub.

 

[mrblaine]

What if the tin can effect is there? I've got a little of that effect on the driver's side around lowest hole area.

Smack it in slightly below flush. The screws will pull it back out to flush.

 

[MikekiM]

The stock screws pull the holes in the tub outward so the housing sits on them and not the tub.

Ah.. thank you.

Not an issue for me. PO removed the threaded inserts so I am thru-bolting. I'll probably ground under the nut instead of deforming the ring into the countersink.

I haven't pulled the Trail Tails yet and my memory is blank on how I wired the LEDs for the plate. I expect I am going to have an unused power lead that fed the stock plate light, no?

 

[mrblaine]

Ah.. thank you.

Not an issue for me. PO removed the threaded inserts so I am thru-bolting.

There are no threaded inserts. The factory extrudes the sheet metal into a tube and then use a Type F thread cutting screw to mount the tail light. The screw threads are also the ground connection between the tail light lights and the tub.

I'll probably ground under the nut instead of deforming the ring into the countersink.

No reason whatsoever to do it that way and that will just make the install more difficult. Iffen ya'll will let me know, I can include Keps nuts for the 12-24 mounting screws that will bite into the sheet metal and ground the screw that deforms the ground ring. If you don't know, a Keps nut has a captive toothed washer, they bite and lock very well.

I haven't pulled the Trail Tails yet and my memory is blank on how I wired the LEDs for the plate. I expect I am going to have an unused power lead that fed the stock plate light, no?

If you don't know what you did, I'm more lost than you are.

 

[mrblaine]

If I could get some feedback on the difficulties involved with inserting the 3 small marker light wires into the single gauge butt connectors, that would be helpful. We have no issues doing it and I realize fully that we have lots of practice. We paid very close attention to whether or not those needed a step down butt connector and for us even taking into account the various skill levels, we still believed the single gauge were easy to use.

A key point is you only want to twist them enough to get them to go in. If you twist more, that makes the bundle larger in diameter and you won't be able to get them inserted properly.

At 40 cents each, if I don't have to supply the step down versions, that would be better for me, if this is a problem I know the step down will solve, then I'll do it