Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
This afternoon I dug into the 14 bolt:
If you didn't see it, here is a thread where I went into more detail on the problem:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/yukon-gear-vs-revolution-gear-for-a-14-bolt.88086/
At first glance, I can see no damage evident on the R&P - but it is definitely making noise, and also binding. When I rotate the axle shaft with it locked, it gets a crunchy, rough, and binds at the exact same place each time in the rotation. I fired it up and took a video - you can definitely hear it:
It don't see any metal yet in the fluid or in the case, but I'll inspect and filter it after it drains and I pull the diff. It's either something I can't see with the ring gear, or a case bearing. The noise does seem to be coming from the general area of the passenger side case bearing, and not from the spindle bearings.
Looking at the video, there is also some funny wobble movement of the ring gear evident on the left hand side, but the tooth side seems OK. Could be just how Yukon shaved it, but I'll throw a mic on it to check.
I'll pull the case tomorrow and hopefully get a better idea.
Wonderful.
If you didn't see it, here is a thread where I went into more detail on the problem:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/yukon-gear-vs-revolution-gear-for-a-14-bolt.88086/
At first glance, I can see no damage evident on the R&P - but it is definitely making noise, and also binding. When I rotate the axle shaft with it locked, it gets a crunchy, rough, and binds at the exact same place each time in the rotation. I fired it up and took a video - you can definitely hear it:
It don't see any metal yet in the fluid or in the case, but I'll inspect and filter it after it drains and I pull the diff. It's either something I can't see with the ring gear, or a case bearing. The noise does seem to be coming from the general area of the passenger side case bearing, and not from the spindle bearings.
Looking at the video, there is also some funny wobble movement of the ring gear evident on the left hand side, but the tooth side seems OK. Could be just how Yukon shaved it, but I'll throw a mic on it to check.
I'll pull the case tomorrow and hopefully get a better idea.
Wonderful.
Last edited:
No. Just now getting around to digging in.
Just saw the YouTube notification. Definitely looks to be wobbling to me. Was hoping you already figured it out and could explain it.
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Hopefully it is just a bearing and not a shaft issue which sometimes results in damage to the carrier itself.
I pulled out a friends rear Dana 44 elocker yesterday to figure out why it wasn't working and while laying on his garage floor struggling to reinstall it, I said "at least this Dana 44 locker is light and I am not trying to lift a Dana 60 or 14bolt!"
And for some reason, the longer this thing is in there the heavier it is for me to lift. Must be absorbing oil or something..,
No joke. I did new gears in the AAM 11.5 in my Dodge a couple of years ago. Carrier and ring gear were something like 75#!
100%!!!! Even an 8.8 is a PITA. I couldn't imagine trying to gear a 14 bolt while it's on a lift.
Oh yeah. Definitely worth the effort of pulling the axle.
I pulled the carrier this afternoon - and I'm at a bit of a loss. The ring and pinion looks fine. The carrier bearings look fine. The pinion bearings feel fine. The spindle bearing on each side feel fine. There was no debris on the gear oil.
But there is this: When I rebuilt this thing this time last year I had an issue with the passenger side case bearing being loose. ARB told me this was not an uncommon problem, and the fix was to dimple the bearing surface and press it on. Well, it's loose again and once again came off in my hand.
The scoring may have been there from the last occurrence, but the dimples are clearly worn off.
I checked the runout on both axle shafts. The passenger side was 21 thou. Not great, but I don't think horrible enough to cause any issues. The driver side was 13 thou. I'll pull out my spare stock shafts and compare the runout.
Backlash on the R&P was 22. Again, not great, but I don't know what the tolerance is for a broken-in 14-bolt gear set. It was certainly in spec when I built it.
So I did not see the smoking gun I expected. I'll have to address the loose bearing surface, and that may require a new locker this time. I considered that last year, but decided to see how well the dimple method worked. It did work initially, but obviously was not a permanent fix. And again, I have no idea if that had anything to do with the noise.
So help a brother out: Any ideas?
But there is this: When I rebuilt this thing this time last year I had an issue with the passenger side case bearing being loose. ARB told me this was not an uncommon problem, and the fix was to dimple the bearing surface and press it on. Well, it's loose again and once again came off in my hand.
The scoring may have been there from the last occurrence, but the dimples are clearly worn off.
I checked the runout on both axle shafts. The passenger side was 21 thou. Not great, but I don't think horrible enough to cause any issues. The driver side was 13 thou. I'll pull out my spare stock shafts and compare the runout.
Backlash on the R&P was 22. Again, not great, but I don't know what the tolerance is for a broken-in 14-bolt gear set. It was certainly in spec when I built it.
So I did not see the smoking gun I expected. I'll have to address the loose bearing surface, and that may require a new locker this time. I considered that last year, but decided to see how well the dimple method worked. It did work initially, but obviously was not a permanent fix. And again, I have no idea if that had anything to do with the noise.
So help a brother out: Any ideas?
Is this a split case ARB? Can you only get that half of the case? If so cheaper than buying a whole new ARB... And I'm guessing not under warranty at this time? And even if it was would they cover it?
There's also the option of adding weld then cutting the surface back to size, but IDk what that price would be, so it might not be worth it.
It is the new style, two-piece case (replaced the 3 piece case, I believe). No idea if I could replace it in pieces. These do have a 5 year warranty, but only against material defects. I'd have a hard time arguing that one, but I may reach out and ask. Can't hurt.
Possible, if I could find someone to do it, but then I'd still wind up with a five year old case which has been beat on. Easier to just order a new one.
What about Loctite 609 in this situation? Maybe @mrblaine can shed some light if it would be a good idea or not. I think if you're looking at a new locker, this may not hurt to try.
Problem is that the bearing - as it did before - moves a bit on the bearing surface. I just went out and measured it, and the bearing collar moves back and forth 14 thou on the bearing retainer. That means there is no way to keep the bearing concentric with the bearing surface, and the 609 would not help that - even if it held.
The first time I did this I did my best to make the dimples consistent, hoping to get the bearing close to concentric - but of course that's never going to be spot on. Maybe that lack of concentricity contributed to the failure? No idea, but it would only be worse if I tried the dimple approach again.
Of course, I still have no idea what led to spinning the bearing the first time.
I guess I don't understand... Is the bearing collar supposed to have that kind of play? Can you tighten the side adjusters to remove that play?
Cost wise if you can get a replacement half of the locker case IMO that would be how I'd go. But I also know from when I had to buy parts for my locker that case parts can take longer to receive than a whole locker.
At $1400 for a locker it's a hard pill to swallow. Wish I had some other ideas.
Are there SpeedySleeves you can get? Don't know just asking... Maybe ARB has other ideas?
At $1400 for a locker it's a hard pill to swallow. Wish I had some other ideas.
Are there SpeedySleeves you can get? Don't know just asking... Maybe ARB has other ideas?
Good thought, Mike. I had to think about that one. The bearing is a press fit like other carriers. There is a fillet at the bottom of the bearing surface (you can see it in the pic above) and a corresponding fillet on the bearing. However, no matter how hard I press down on the bearing trying to engage the corresponding fillets, it still moves around just as much. So I don't think additional pressure from the adjusters would accomplish anything. And, you still have to be mindful of the preload on the case. It's an ARB, so it wants 15 thou of preload as I recall.
Yeah, I just ordered the thing. 1600 clams to my door. Definitely the easiest solution - but those are generally also the most expensive.
But, I did sell my six China Bombs for $650 this morning, so I'm not too far behind on the day...
Similar threads
