Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Not being a woodworker, I'm always impressed with Jeff's work. BlueC, what's the workflow for getting shading like that?

I've dones some wood furniture refinishing, but never tried carving or painting anything fancy. My work looks something like below. :sneaky:

1765202908766.png
 
I like it. Are you going to be applying any stains/colors? A little shading to make that flower 'pop'?

View attachment 659664

Since these are toyboxes for the kids, I use a wipe-on poly, which is very durable and safe. When I do fine furniture, I usually do hand-rubbed oil - which is a hell of a lot of work - so this is much quicker and more relaxing.

The background on the carvings naturally comes out a bit darker as the finish is not as smooth as the surrounding field. The surrounding box is machine sanded to 320 grit, but I leave the background to the carving a bit rougher. The finish penetrates the rougher surface much deeper and results in a darker appearance. When you get into higher end stuff, there is a real art to managing the surfaces for the purpose of getting the desired finish effect.

Here is a finished box which shows this a bit better. Also notice the end-grain portion of the box joints is also darker than the face grain - and for the same reason. Finish also penetrates end grain more easily than face grain. If desired, you can actually get the end grain to look the same as the face grain by sanding the end grain to a higher grit. In this case, I like the contrast.

IMG_5006.JPG
 
Since these are toyboxes for the kids, I use a wipe-on poly, which is very durable and safe. When I do fine furniture, I usually do hand-rubbed oil - which is a hell of a lot of work - so this is much quicker and more relaxing.

The background on the carvings naturally comes out a bit darker as the finish is not as smooth as the surrounding field. The surrounding box is machine sanded to 320 grit, but I leave the background to the carving a bit rougher. The finish penetrates the rougher surface much deeper and results in a darker appearance. When you get into higher end stuff, there is a real art to managing the surfaces for the purpose of getting the desired finish effect.

Here is a finished box which shows this a bit better. Also notice the end-grain portion of the box joints is also darker than the face grain - and for the same reason. Finish also penetrates end grain more easily than face grain. If desired, you can actually get the end grain to look the same as the face grain by sanding the end grain to a higher grit. In this case, I like the contrast.

View attachment 659705

Do you use a jig for the box joints or do them all by hand?
 
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At last - something TJ related:

14 Bolt R&P in da house!

IMG_8765.JPG


Tonight, I also spoke to Carl Jantz at Rick's suggestion. He does have a load bolt setup for the 14 bolt, and I'm considering. At Carl's suggestion, I need to get some measurements to see if there is enough metal at the outside diameter of the shaved ring gear to allow clearance for the load bolt.
 
At last - something TJ related:

14 Bolt R&P in da house!

View attachment 660121

Tonight, I also spoke to Carl Jantz at Rick's suggestion. He does have a load bolt setup for the 14 bolt, and I'm considering. At Carl's suggestion, I need to get some measurements to see if there is enough metal at the outside diameter of the shaved ring gear to allow clearance for the load bolt.

Nice looking R&P..... 👌
 
At last - something TJ related:

14 Bolt R&P in da house!

View attachment 660121

Tonight, I also spoke to Carl Jantz at Rick's suggestion. He does have a load bolt setup for the 14 bolt, and I'm considering. At Carl's suggestion, I need to get some measurements to see if there is enough metal at the outside diameter of the shaved ring gear to allow clearance for the load bolt.

Nice looking R&P..... 👌

It definitely looks different than the Yukon.

Oooooohhhhhh.... This is the new R&P! Wow - that clears things up. I thought you had picked up and put the diff on that newly finished workbench and had pulled these old gears out to confirm damage while waiting on the new ones...

I was really scratching my head about all your posts on needing to replace the gears because these look fine to run —— but I'm a newbie on gear work.






——

;)

Those are gorgeous gears! I'm popping popcorn now to watch the install.

If you're delayed, I'll repurpose the popcorn to string on the tree until you get after it. 🙂

Sucks you're going through this - hope this is the end of the troubles for your rear diff. You are impressively skilled - and I'd rather watch you work on your next amazing project vs another gear job 😄

On a separate topic - are you taking orders for the amazing and customized toy boxes? I have a set of twins here who could use a spot to store more of their crap (toys)! Christmas will just add more from every family/friend/Santa who loves them... lol
 
How so? Look forward to seeing how these hold up for you.
Hopefully this is your last R&P set for a very long time.

Every surface on both the ring gear and the pinion is machined. If memory serves, there were surfaces on the Yukon stuff that were still rough cast. Not that it means anything, but it seems like more attention to detail. There are also no sharp edges - every edge is dressed. The Yukon ring gear had a bunch of sharp edges - especially where it was shaved. $1300 gear set vs $500, I guess.
 
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And in other project news, I finished up the workbench project. Added an oak trim around the maple top, and slapped on some poly.

View attachment 659979

Ya know, one day I may actually get back around to doing a Jeep project...:rolleyes:

Really nice Jeff. I've been waiting for that one. The oak trim around the maple is an unexpected treat:love:
 
At last - something TJ related:

14 Bolt R&P in da house!

View attachment 660121

Tonight, I also spoke to Carl Jantz at Rick's suggestion. He does have a load bolt setup for the 14 bolt, and I'm considering. At Carl's suggestion, I need to get some measurements to see if there is enough metal at the outside diameter of the shaved ring gear to allow clearance for the load bolt.

That's interesting. Where would you put the load bolt? I think I've only seen those on HP rear diffs.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator