LJ Frame Swap

So correct me if I'm wrong but in the long run, this will have to be done at some point unless someone uses my LJ as a donor or parts Jeep, right?

I am of the opinion that if I can be the owner to do it, why not? Also by doing it, I understand I will never "make money" on a Jeep but with a clean frame swap that was done right is worth more than one with a frame that will need to be replaced at some point, correct?

I mean, what's the going rate for a 131K mile LJ with a 4" lift, 35s, all new steering components, hubs, and brakes that needs a frame swap at some point?

And to clarify, the frame is not falling apart right now. There are a couple of smaller holes and it has been patched in one place before but it's not "tweaking" with on-road driving and it's not creaking/folding/falling apart on the two post lift. The timeframe we set for this project is just before next Spring/Summer when we will really be using the Jeep, provided we can find a good frame.

If you are able, post some photos of the frame in this thread. Might end up being a roast if it’s really bad, but odds are we (this forum) can give some perspective on what to look out for.

Some things might be more repairable than you might think.
 
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Alright so the rain finally took a break and I was able to get under the Jeep to take some pics. I named the pics so you can get an idea of where the rust is. There is certainly some rot/cancer and it needs to be addressed but it's not folding up and falling apart (yet). Be gentle...

Driver Rear2.jpeg

^ Driver Rear

Driver Rear1.jpeg

^ Driver Rear

Passenger Rear3.jpeg

^ Passenger Rear

Passenger Rear2.jpeg

^ Passenger Rear

Passenger Rear1.jpeg

^ Passenger Rear

Passenger front.jpeg

^ Passenger Front

Driver Rail.jpeg

^ Driver Rail

Passenger LCA.jpeg

^ Passenger LCA

Passenger Boxed.jpeg

^ Passenger LCA Patch
 
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Definitely time. I'm truly surprised at how well the 2000 Sahara I'm parting out that has softball plus sized holes in the frame drives.

Here's a great "test" video. YMMV.


-Mac
 
Nothing there appears to be irreparable, but the reality is a swap is probably your better bet given the number of repairs needed.

If you did choose to go with repair, Safe T Cap makes some substantial frame sections that would repair the frame holes along a fairly significant portion of the frame and provide new lower control arm mounts.

https://www.autorust.com/product-category/jeep/jeep-tj-lj/?orderby=price-desc

The rear end is in worse condition, and you'd be looking for something called a "back half" kit. Here's an example:

https://undercoverfab.com/back-half-and-long-bed-kits-/46-jeep-lj-back-half-kit.html
 
@macleanflood and @Steel City 06 - I appreciate y'alls honest feedback, opinions, and ideas. And thanks for not roasting me!

I agree that I could get away with patching/repairing it but the right way to do it is a full frame swap. For peace of mind I am going to seriously start hunting a frame that's clean and not damaged plus have a couple of serious talks with my mechanic who would be doing the work.

On to the next step of how far down this rabbit hole do I go and what do I go ahead and knock out while the getting is easy + everything is easily accessible, haha.
 
How are the torque boxes on the tub? Those are known to rust out. Fortunately those are repairable.

Also, if there are any modifications you want to do to the frame, they are way easier to do when the frame is off.

Does it have any suspension and/or body lift, or do you plan on doing so?
 
How are the torque boxes on the tub? Those are known to rust out. Fortunately those are repairable.

Also, if there are any modifications you want to do to the frame, they are way easier to do when the frame is off.

Does it have any suspension and/or body lift, or do you plan on doing so?

Yeah the torque boxes/floor pans are good. And I agree that's what I was asking for input on, because the frame is off are there any suggested mods or improvements the group would suggest? Either from experience or a "hey if I had the opportunity, I'd do X".

It does have a 4" suspension lift, new HD steering, new track bar, all new front brakes (rotors, calipers, pads), and new hubs. No body lift but would consider adding a 1" body lift though I'd really have to be convinced because right now the 35s look small and it's not the easiest for the kids to climb up into as it is.
 
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I don't see a frame as a wear item. If maintained and not marinated in salt; it should last a really really long time. My 99 literally has zero corrosion/rust on frame.

Mute point because of answer above. I would much rather have the unmolested clean frame than one that has had a full frame swap. Every bolt, hole and cavity is going to have corrosion; sometimes opening a can of worms.

$12-15k all day in the Carolinas. Find one and hop on it.

Yep,what I was thinking,if the frame was bad enough to be patched already?the body and underbody and everything else was also present at the time,it had to have been subjected to the same stuff that killed the frame?
 
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Yeah the torque boxes/floor pans are good. And I agree that's what I was asking for input on, because the frame is off are there any suggested mods or improvements the group would suggest? Either from experience or a "hey if I had the opportunity, I'd do X".

It does have a 4" suspension lift, new HD steering, new track bar, all new front brakes (rotors, calipers, pads), and new hubs. No body lift but would consider adding a 1" body lift though I'd really have to be convinced because right now the 35s look small and it's not the easiest for the kids to climb up into as it is.
 
Yeah the torque boxes/floor pans are good. And I agree that's what I was asking for input on, because the frame is off are there any suggested mods or improvements the group would suggest? Either from experience or a "hey if I had the opportunity, I'd do X".

It does have a 4" suspension lift, new HD steering, new track bar, all new front brakes (rotors, calipers, pads), and new hubs. No body lift but would consider adding a 1" body lift though I'd really have to be convinced because right now the 35s look small and it's not the easiest for the kids to climb up into as it is.

For 4" lift, take a look at the rear coil spring perch relocation. Basically you cut off the upper perch and then weld it back on at the top of the arch so the coil spring isn't at a funny angle anymore.

If you want the Genright 30-gallon gas tank, you'll need to cut out the 2nd rear crossmember. This can be done body-on but is probably easier body-off.


More into the weeds: (Geared to heavy modifications)

You could also consider outboarding the shocks. It's a lot of work but can have fairly significant benefits. If your suspension allows for it, it can set you up to get a full 12" of suspension travel. (The front shock mounts can be extended too to get 11-12" of travel there.)

If you want to relocate the front steering box or tilt it to move the axle forward, that is a good time to do so.
 
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I considered taking my tub off to do my TJ outboard...I did like lift the tub four inches...but you really need the tub on to figure out clearances unless someone has magic put it here numbers.

Same thing with lifting the six middle tub mounts to avoid a body lift.

And chopping the rear frame to lift the bumper.

-Mac
 
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I found one in Ennis, TX just outside of Dallas and the guys there have been great so far; both in communication and working with me on shipping. Provided this one works out, even with shipping I'd be into this frame for about $1,000 less than picking one up here in SC. Fingers crossed!
 
Alright so everything is getting buttoned up at the shop and I should have the Jeep back later this week or next week before Christmas!

I can't say enough good things about the guy doing the swap for me and helping me out on this build. If you're in or around Charleston, SC and want to talk shop or need some work done, I know the guy! Additionally, as I said before the guys at Ennis Auto Parts outside of Dallas were awesome helping me secure this frame sign unseen and get it to SC. They have A TON of vehicles in their inventory and they ship so be sure to check them out. Message me for a contact.

Now on to the update. So I never put eyes on this frame before it was shipped but I was sent a video after it was disassembled from the donor Jeep and I really lucked out (file is too big to post here). Once it arrived in Charleston I went to check it out in person and it was way cleaner than I expected.
IMG_0168.jpeg

Once the swap process started we were very quickly reassured that the right decision was made to do the swap. Take a look at the pics of the frame once the body was off. The original frame had been patched more than your favorite pair of jeans from high school and it was hiding more rust we couldn't see with the body on.
IMG_6983.jpegIMG_6985.jpegIMG_6986.jpegIMG_6987.jpegIMG_6988.jpegIMG_6989.jpeg

Luckily in all of this there weren't a ton of surprises on this phase of the project. Ultimately the only unknowns we addressed were new parking brake cables + transitioned to a Novak cable T-case shifter kit + added a new rear bumper.

All in all I am super stoked with the decision to do the swap and can't wait to get the Jeep back!

Next on the docket are to install new Bestop Trailmax II seats front and rear, remove the carpet, and install a new head unit & speakers all around. Everything is in the garage waiting for the Jeep to come home for Christmas break. Can't wait!