I need assistance. I started replacing the body mount bushings on my LJ but I broke the head off on the front right 1/2''-13 body mount bushing bolt; a significant portion of the bolt stud is still protruding out from the body. Also, the fuel tank crossmember body mount bushing bolts (2 of them) just keep spinning with the bushing. I heated all the bolts with an induction bolt/nut tool prior to wrenching on them; the bolts were red hot. Fortunately, all rest of the bolts unbolted securely. Starting with the fuel tank crossmmeber bolts, how do I fix this (I do not see any repair kits)? Thanks
LJ Body Mount Bushing Woes
- Thread starter hcoll003
- Start date
I have one body mount bolt that spins. I lifted the body there, with a floor jack, and used an impact wrench to tighten it. It might work when trying to remove it.
WV Native
TJ Enthusiast
I had to cut open the front floorboards to gain access on a TJ I was working on after the bolts were spinning.
It’s not horrible but it’s still a pain.
I ended up building an anti-rotation nut to replace the original nut. Worked out for me.
It’s not horrible but it’s still a pain.
I ended up building an anti-rotation nut to replace the original nut. Worked out for me.
Both very good ideas. Does anyone know where I would need to cut the LJ body floor pan to access the fuel tank crossmember body mount bushing nuts?
I bought a stud extractor for the front right body bushing bolt that I had broken the head off the bolt. Now the whole bolt stud snapped at the body. That stud is rusted in there!!! I am going to have to do what you did. How do I locate where to cut into the body? Do I use a dremel or an angle grinder? Thanks
WV Native
TJ Enthusiast
I just measured the body mount location the best I could and made an educated guess where to cut the floor pan. I got lucky on one but had to cut a larger hole in another. Cutting a larger than necessary hole isn’t a huge deal. It gives you more room to work. If you’re careful it will weld up just fine.
I recommend that you figure roughly where you think you should make your cuts. Next, take a grinder and remove whatever paint is on the areas to be welded later. Next mark the cut lines good so you get a decently square hole. Cut the hole on three lines and peel it back like a tuna can. Once you’re finished just fold it back down and you’ll be ready to weld since you’ve already removed the paint. You will obviously want to clean the weld area to be sure it welds up properly.
I used an angle grinder with a thin cut blade to cut the lines. I stuffed a welding blanket under the dash and covered everything I could with additional welding blankets to help reduce the sparks from catching something on fire.
Good news, WV Native, I followed your instructions and cut the floor pan, thank you! I used the induction nut heating tool and drenched the broken stud with penetrating fluid. I had to use the stud extractor but she finally gave up and I won!!! Fortunately, I was able to reutilize the stock LJ body bushing bolt retainer. The new bolt bolted right in—I also added copper anti-seize to the bolt. I want to buy a 4x4’’ stainless steel sheet and rivet it to the floor pan in the event I have to access that body mount retainer in the future. I need to address the rear fuel tank crossmember body bolt bushing that keeps spinning. I jacked the body up to put more pressure on it but no dice, it kept spinning. Any tips on how to address that one, maybe a diagram of where it is?
WV Native
TJ Enthusiast
I have a TJ that had a rear body mount bolt that was spinning but I’m not sure it’s the same one you are talking about. Here is a picture of the one I had to access in case it’s the same thing you are referring to. I just used a hole saw to make an access hole to the nut.
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