Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Jeep #2

SteamRollin

Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
89
Location
Houston
***RE-Intro***

Greetings fellow Jeepers! After what seems like an eternity, I’m happy to report that I made my way back into another TJ. “Back you say?” Yes, I regretfully sold my previous one about 12 months ago because I thought a MT to AT swap was going to be too much of a headache and for other (dumb) personal reasons. After pricing out all the equipment my old TJ had on it, WOW do I feel dumb for selling it now.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/1999-for-sale-in-texas.23919/

Is there such a thing as sellers’ remorse??? Ok enough about the old one, let’s hear about the next irrational decision.


***About New Jeep***

[Enter bad decision #2]

After about 12 months of hunting for a replacement, in what seems like an insanely inflated market, I nearly pulled the trigger on a Lexus GX470 but ultimately didn’t since the seller wasn’t quite ready to let go of it at the last minute. The FOMO set in and hit me harder than Iron Mike in his prime, and within two days I searched for the cheapest TJ in my area that I could find, and I bought that booger. Crazy thing was when I went to go check it out, I had even talked myself out of it because it was a borderline deal breaker and right before I told them “I’ll pass” I blurted out a (2nd) lower offer and they accepted it.



“OK?!?, well what did you get?!?!?”

  • 2003 Wrangler Sport 4.0L AUTO
  • Stock aside from some larger tires and wheel spacers
  • Dana 30 Front / Dana 35 Rear
  • 3.73 Rear axle ratio
  • Body has one small bruise but shows normal wear for 20 y.o. vehicle, floor pans look fine, and everything appears intact
  • Transmission & motor operate as they should for now
  • Clean title, no accidents


“OK so what is wrong with it?!?”

  • For starters the frame as surface rust, as one typically does when they are repeated used in and around saltwater and the sandy beaches of Texas. No pitting or flaking off that I’ve noticed just yet, but I haven’t checked every nook and cranny either. The amount of sand and mud inside of the frame and fuel tank skid pan is beyond comprehension.
  • The odometer isn’t working but is indicating “No Fuse”. The PO said it had 176K on it when the purchased it less than a year ago but used it as a DD and probably put another 12-15K on it since then.
  • Interior center dash is butchered to hell from a makeshift double din head unit install, a crappy one at that. This is not a deal breaker as much as it is just a nuisance.
  • Grinding noise that occurred on switching ignition on, its only occurred once since I’ve had it but is something that I’m assuming has to do with the starter.
  • 4Lo is a little hard to engage / shifter will not stay in place (almost as if it has a certain location it likes).
  • Lastly, there is traces of oil of some sorts on the top of the motor around the valve cover. Need of valve cover replacement???


So, it’s not a horrible buy (considering that I bought it for what most 4 cyl will go for) with unsolvable issues but I really should’ve been more patient with my search.

Over the next 4-8 weeks, my plan is to strip this thing down as much as possible to treat the surface rust, resolve the other issues, and figure out which route I want to take on building this and plan it all out. I remember feeling like I missed out on something major when I got my previous TJ since it was already built (think Currie & RE had a long arm baby…) and people would always make comments that suggested “BOUGHT<BUILT”, and I can understand the difference and see why that matters but MAN… am I going to miss some of those things on my old one LMAO.



***Goals***

This is going to depend to 2 words, Stock. Axles.

I’d like this Jeep to be an overland build or rock crawler build. If you’re telling me I can slap an OME/Zone (budget) 2-4” lift and run 31-33s on the stock axles doing some overlanding and light/medium rock crawling trails with vigor (confidently), then that’s the route I’m going.

However, if that Dana 35 is as crappy as it is made out to be then I’ll probably spend the coin and build this like my previous TJ.

If the stock axles hold up to 31-33s and will handle some trails, then I would like to hear what builds work and what people are using. I only mentioned OME & Zone because those seem to be the ones that are more highly regarded in terms of budget, I am open to ideas and suggestions.

While I’m on the subject of lifts… if there is a non-SYE solution for this less aggressive build, please enlighten me. I know there is a magic number in terms of lift heights that requires a SYE installed, I just can’t remember it off the top of my head.

I will likely trailer this Jeep to and from the trail locations and I don’t anticipate using this very much on roads at highway speeds. Texas is home, and my offroad park options are limited to Hidden Falls, Barnwell, and a few others that are hours away. I would like to explorer more possibilities and get into OHV Trails and Routes as there appears to be more of those.

Thanks in advance!

-Steam

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This is 4” on the left and OME 2.5” on the right, both on 33”
tires.

A Savvy or similar transfer case shift cable solves most shifter issues-

@Jerry Bransford can recommend the best way to deal with those axles- he and others will have lots of good advice.

A8D711D4-452C-4D46-862A-3EC738047B84.jpeg
 
This is 4” on the left and OME 2.5” on the right, both on 33”
tires.

A Savvy or similar transfer case shift cable solves most shifter issues-

@Jerry Bransford can recommend the best way to deal with those axles- he and others will have lots of good advice.

View attachment 410479

How do they differ in terms of performance? Is one more capable than the other?
 
31 or 33 would be a better distinction than 31-33. Different requirements for each.31s you can fit with 0-2" lift. For 33's you want close to 4" total lift,a super35 kit and 4.88 gears. To try and avoid an sye you can run 2-2.5" suspension and 1.25" body lift.plus motor mount lift and or skid drop. Might still have vibes though.
 
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This yellow one was my old TJ. 31's, geared 3.73, with a 2.5" lift and SYE. Extremely capable little Jeep! Would do highway speeds, was super fun to drive. The one in my profile is my new one... 35's, long arm, 5.5" lift, geared to 5.13. Two completely different animals. The less built Jeep was almost more fun sometimes because what are now easy obstacles were challenging with it. I absolutely love my current TJ but have to up the risk factor for the same challenge. Take it out and wheel it, see what you really need. A less built Jeep will force you to learn to pick better lines.

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Funny you mentioned it, a can of that stuff arrived Saturday evening :LOL:

Ooof, if it’s surface rust, and you’re doing the work, I would re-consider that, but that’s just me.

I had surface rust on the frame (not as heavy as yours) and I hit it with a flap wheel on the cordless grinder. Then wire wheels on the drill in tight spots. Got it all clean. Then used Krylon semi-flat thag Blaine suggested that isn’t flat and holds dirt, very close to factory look.

I’ve looked at POR 15 big time for my CJ, and after a lot of looking, just don’t want to do it. Especially in Texas if I can clean it and get it done without that issue, because ongoing rust shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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I’m in Cedar Park, just 40 minutes from Hidden Falls. You can have fun there on 33’s and a 3” lift, but a lot of the most fun areas of the park won’t work with your current.

I had the 30/35 setup on my X. I got a pretty good situation from a guy on here, bought 05 Rubi 44’s with Rubi lockers, 4.88 and Chromoly front and rear shafts.

I have a Currie 4” and SYE and with those lockers and 35’s I can cover the park mostly. It’ll be easier with my BL 1.25 Savvy, and Savvy US skid about to go on, but the lockers were the key.

So saying that, if you can’t change that, I would look at Super 35, Chromoly front and lockers of some sort, a 35 will have that. Just a trail rig you could save with a lunchbox vs selectable.

Lockers and 33’s with the 4” would be my suggestion if Hidden Falls is your primary.

That place is an awesome 4 Wheel park, and also a big sporting clays, I would recommend a Benelli SBE II or III for semi, or a Browning Sitori O/U .12 but .20 if you’re good! Ha
 
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Reactions: inkedrose
Ooof, if it’s surface rust, and you’re doing the work, I would re-consider that, but that’s just me.

I had surface rust on the frame (not as heavy as yours) and I hit it with a flap wheel on the cordless grinder. Then wire wheels on the drill in tight spots. Got it all clean. Then used Krylon semi-flat thag Blaine suggested that isn’t flat and holds dirt, very close to factory look.

I’ve looked at POR 15 big time for my CJ, and after a lot of looking, just don’t want to do it. Especially in Texas if I can clean it and get it done without that issue, because ongoing rust shouldn’t be an issue.

That's basically what I did in that side picture with the primer on the frame. I'll pick up a can of the Krylon you mentioned and check it out, may just save the Por15 to do an undercoat on the tub if I find some uglies down there later on. I've used Por15 before on some old trailers that is still holding up after 4-5 years, maybe not as shiny as day one but the rust stopped. Thanks for suggesting the Kyrlon
 
That's basically what I did in that side picture with the primer on the frame. I'll pick up a can of the Krylon you mentioned and check it out, may just save the Por15 to do an undercoat on the tub if I find some uglies down there later on. I've used Por15 before on some old trailers that is still holding up after 4-5 years, maybe not as shiny as day one but the rust stopped. Thanks for suggesting the Kyrlon

637DCA25-20B7-468C-906D-648A31A4B2AD.jpeg
 
I’m in Cedar Park, just 40 minutes from Hidden Falls. You can have fun there on 33’s and a 3” lift, but a lot of the most fun areas of the park won’t work with your current.

I had the 30/35 setup on my X. I got a pretty good situation from a guy on here, bought 05 Rubi 44’s with Rubi lockers, 4.88 and Chromoly front and rear shafts.

I have a Currie 4” and SYE and with those lockers and 35’s I can cover the park mostly. It’ll be easier with my BL 1.25 Savvy, and Savvy US skid about to go on, but the lockers were the key.

So saying that, if you can’t change that, I would look at Super 35, Chromoly front and lockers of some sort, a 35 will have that. Just a trail rig you could save with a lunchbox vs selectable.

Lockers and 33’s with the 4” would be my suggestion if Hidden Falls is your primary.

That place is an awesome 4 Wheel park, and also a big sporting clays, I would recommend a Benelli SBE II or III for semi, or a Browning Sitori O/U .12 but .20 if you’re good! Ha

I wish I lived 40 minutes from there, I'm about 4 hours from there east of Houston. My previous TJ could get around most of that place but it had a Dana 44 in the rear with lockers and 6" Long Arm Rubicon Express lift and SYE on 35's. Broke a Tom Woods drive shaft out there twice and smoked a stock PS pump on another trip.

I've considered going the route of using TJ Rubi Dana 44 front and rear axles since they'll match up without modification from what I've read. I'd just have to find a how to on it and start sourcing parts out.

I don't know much about the Super 35's, so I'll do some reading on those as well.

How do you like the Currie 4"? Thanks again for the response!

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I wish I lived 40 minutes from there, I'm about 4 hours from there east of Houston. My previous TJ could get around most of that place but it had a Dana 44 in the rear with lockers and 6" Long Arm Rubicon Express lift and SYE on 35's. Broke a Tom Woods drive shaft out there twice and smoked a stock PS pump on another trip.

I've considered going the route of using TJ Rubi Dana 44 front and rear axles since they'll match up without modification from what I've read. I'd just have to find a how to on it and start sourcing parts out.

I don't know much about the Super 35's, so I'll do some reading on those as well.

How do you like the Currie 4"? Thanks again for the response!

View attachment 410584

View attachment 410585

View attachment 410586

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-texas-jeep-tj-never-sell-build.37076/


I put what details I could on my build thread for the Rubi axles. They aren’t easy to find. They are bolt in depending on their shape.

Look up the Super 35, they have the strength of the D4, I would have done it if I didn’t find these
 
Last edited:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2005-texas-jeep-tj-never-sell-build.37076/


I put what details I could on my build thread for the Rubi axles. They aren’t easy to find. They are bolt in depending on their shape.

Look up the Super 35, they have the strength of the D4, I would have done it if I didn’t find these

Awesome build thread! Reading through it really made me appreciate my gold Jeep I sold. I've stumbled across a '04 Rubicon w/ 4.11 gears, Front & Rear axle at an LKQ Pick Your Part near me, shows to have arrived around 2 weeks ago. I'll give them a shout tomorrow and see if they're still available, is there anything else vital I'd want off that vehicle if its still intact? TIA
 
Awesome build thread! Reading through it really made me appreciate my gold Jeep I sold. I've stumbled across a '04 Rubicon w/ 4.11 gears, Front & Rear axle at an LKQ Pick Your Part near me, shows to have arrived around 2 weeks ago. I'll give them a shout tomorrow and see if they're still available, is there anything else vital I'd want off that vehicle if its still intact? TIA

Depending on what you want to do. I’ve heard a lot about the 241 Transfer Case. The ratios are supposed to be awesome for crawling.

The pumps for the lockers for sure.

You asked about the Currie 4”, the Springs are excellent. The Currie F & R track bars are excellent as well. I used Savvy control arms with Johnny Joints.

I have no complaints
 
I started to tackle the odometer “NO FUSE” issue that this thing had and removed the instrument cluster. Found a spot on the back side of it that looks as though someone may have tampered with it. From what I’ve found online it seems that the broken piece on the back of the cluster is the door chime, can someone confirm this to be accurate?

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts