Is this a double cardan u-joint?

[Squbbles]

I was just wondering if this is a double cardan U joint on the back of my front drive shaft…. I felt with my fingers but couldn’t tell… my jeep is an 04 wrangler tj… got the 4.0 engine with a 5 speed manual trans… I replaced the front u joint not too long ago as it has up/down play… so the u joint(s) on the back of the front drive shaft are squeaking (I think that’s where it’s coming from) it has no play in it… I’m almost sure it’s never been replaced since the jeep was made. And I’m sure my skid plate has never been off so I’m trying to avoid that can of worms… as I know bolts are gonna break and I done been thru that when I changed the front driver side fender…..

Any advice is very much appreciated… and if I need to figure out which transfer case I have I can do that if that would help….

I don’t want to go get the parts for it and it end up not being the right part(s)

 

[Gilaguy23]

Yes. Might try Dennys Driveshafts in NY for parts if no local place has them. Do yourself a favor and insist on Dana/Spicer U joints ONLY as well when rebuilding. You might try hitting the belly pan bolts with PB blaster or something like that. Yes, the frame inserts might get wasted as well as bolts breaking. Use very little bits of back and forth working them out if they seem like they might break. Coat them good with anti seize when they go back in to help prevent a repeat hassle. I feel for you in KY, just moved here and see more terminal rust buckets around.,

 

[JKP]

There should be an ID plate on the rear of the tcase, but if it's stock, it's a NP 231J.

If the DC is making noise, you don't want to drive it too much longer. If it seizes, it will destroy the tcase. You can remove the front shaft and drive it without issue.

There are sealed and greaseable DCs. So, of you don't want to drop the front shaft to grease the centering ball and joints, get a sealed one.

On my Rubi, I am able to drop the front shaft without dropping the skid. You have to position the shaft so that you can reach 2 of the bolts, then turn it to reach the other 2.

 

[GregBelleville]

On my Rubi, I am able to drop the front shaft without dropping the skid. You have to position the shaft so that you can reach 2 of the bolts, then turn it to reach the other 2.

Second this, it's a little more fiddly, but you can remove the front shaft without removing the skid.

 

[TheBoogieman]

fid·dly
[ˈfidlē]
BRITISH ENGLISH
informal

1. complicated or detailed and awkward to do or use:
   "replacing the battery is fiddly"
   
   

 

[Zorba]

Second this, it's a little more fiddly, but you can remove the front shaft without removing the skid.

You can, but I wouldn't. Dropping the skid is - or should be - fast and easy. If it isn't fast or easy, it needed to be dropped anyway to correct why it wasn't such.

 

[JKP]

Not nearly as easy to drop the skid as it is to take one 5/16 in socket and a 1/4 ratchet out to the Jeep and remove 8 bolts. You'll need a 7/16 socket if you have Tom Woods bolts at the tcase end.

 

[Zorba]

Not nearly as easy to drop the skid as it is to take one 5/16 in socket and a 1/4 ratchet out to the Jeep and remove 8 bolts. You'll need a 7/16 socket if you have Tom Woods bolts at the tcase end.

If you like working in tight spaces, knock yourself out! I don't - but I'm a big ass guy with long arms that don't fit much of anywhere.

 

[taylormade73]

If you like working in tight spaces, knock yourself out! I don't - but I'm a big ass guy with long arms that don't fit much of anywhere.

Zorba, “The Veiled Gangly Big Ass Guy.”

 

[taylormade73]

Zorba, “The Veiled Gangly Big Ass Guy.”

Doesn’t have the same ring.

 

[Zorba]

Zorba, “The Veiled Gangly Big Ass Guy.”

One time I was trying to replace a fuel pump on a 305 Chevy motor. Ended up having the neighbor come over - his short arms went right up into the the area and got it done. I couldn't reach the damn thing, kept whacking my elbow!

 

[JKP]

If you like working in tight spaces, knock yourself out! I don't - but I'm a big ass guy with long arms that don't fit much of anywhere.

Long arms are good in this case to reach the back of the yoke. Also helps if you can use your left arm so you're really barely under the Jeep.

 

[Zorba]

Long arms are good in this case to reach the back of the yoke. Also helps if you can use your left arm so you're really barely under the Jeep.

Then you can't see anything - but your way obviously works for you, so its all good.

 

[JKP]

Yep, totally blind.

 

[JKP]

Didn't spec sealed centering ball on the TW shaft, so plenty of practice.

 

[Danarch]

You can, but I wouldn't. Dropping the skid is - or should be - fast and easy. If it isn't fast or easy, it needed to be dropped anyway to correct why it wasn't such.

Agreed, just did this. Actually still in the middle of doing it., I can’t image trying to drop the DS without removing the skid. I think it can be done, but it seems like it would be tedious. I supposed a CA jeep doesn’t have near the rust issues KY may have.

I second Denny’s, they have been great to work with and very responsive to my questions. I spoke with Denny on Tuesday, he was a gentleman.

 

[JKP]

1. Park Jeep with 2 of the bolts in the tcase yoke near the frame. AT in park, MT in gear, parking brake applied, wheel chocked.
2. Remove the 2 bolts with a 1/4 in ratchet, or breaker bar if needed.
3. Remove the 4 bolts at the axle yoke.
4. Pull DS back from axle yoke and rotate it 180 deg. and push it back into yoke. You can put a strap back on to make sure it stays put, but I don't. I don't stick my head under it.
5. Remove the last 2 bolts at tcase and pull driveshaft out.

You can pull and lube the DS in under 30 mins. And if you need to pull the shaft due to damage, etc, it can be done anywhere.

Mine is an 06 with the Rubi style skid. Believe all 03-06 have it. No experience with the older skid.

 

[Moglocker]

1. Park Jeep with 2 of the bolts in the tcase yoke near the frame. AT in park, MT in gear, parking brake applied, wheel chocked.
2. Remove the 2 bolts with a 1/4 in ratchet, or breaker bar if needed.
3. Remove the 4 bolts at the axle yoke.
4. Pull DS back from axle yoke and rotate it 180 deg. and push it back into yoke. You can put a strap back on to make sure it stays put, but I don't. I don't stick my head under it.
5. Remove the last 2 bolts at tcase and pull driveshaft out.

You can pull and lube the DS in under 30 mins. And if you need to pull the shaft due to damage, etc, it can be done anywhere.

Mine is an 06 with the Rubi style skid. Believe all 03-06 have it. No experience with the older skid.

I can grease the centering ball in my Adam’s by unbolting the front off the diff and then turn the flat zerk out facing out drivers side,and use the needle on the grease gun.the body lift gives just enough room.

 

[Squbbles]

Thanks yall for the input… the strap bolts are all rusted…. I’m gonna have to order the parts from the internet… any body have the part numbers I’m gonna need? I’m gonna go ahead and just rebuild the whole thing while I got it apart… I think that’d be best…
I got some penetrating stuff to go ahead and start spraying stuff ahead of time and spray it every day till my parts come in….
I know it’s not gonna be easy lol I can handle it… may take me longer than more experienced people but I’ll get it lol
Thanks again yall!

 

[JKP]

Denny's Driveshaft.

Be sure your slip joint is not worn. If so, you need a new driveshaft.