Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Gear Ratio for 35's

Why not? I have no problem bringing it up well past 3k, but not sustained. Cruising I feel like 2300-2500 is the sweet spot.

I'm finding that most of the power that I need for overtaking on the freeway is at 3k+. Cruising at 2300-2500 would make overtaking a slower process than it needs to be.
 
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Why not? I have no problem bringing it up well past 3k, but not sustained. Cruising I feel like 2300-2500 is the sweet spot.

For the same reasons we regear in the first place. The goal is to restore the engine power band back into a usable place, which largely coincides with being able to use the full range of our transmission without excessive downshifting. That typically looks like higher rpms than what people have somehow determined to be appropriate for a TJ. Even though Jeep gave us even higher rpms from the factory.
 
I have been doing this for a while. The Jeep was my daily for a long time and the best gearing it ever had was when it was 3k at 75mph. And that is still a lower rpm than what the factory rolled out in the early TJs with the 32rh. Almost everyone out there is not regearing deep enough.

3k is higher than what I’d want to be cruising at. That’s just my opinion.
I’m not so sure the factory geared them right from the get-go. Is there any setups where 3.07 would actually be desired?

I’m not trying to start a debate. All I suggested to the OP in my first post was to play with the calculator to find out what he would like, if he’d driven his LJ for awhile he should know what RPMs he likes it to sit at.
 
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@PNW_LJ @jjvw @James9100 @GPK03X
Thanks for the quick replies guys i appreciate it. I had a feeling they were mistaken but i figured i would double check here as this is my first time "building" (buying bolt on parts haha) a tj/lj.

I have a front 44 out of a TJR I'm swapping in and I'm gonna keep the stock 44 in the rear.

https://www.polyperformance.com/rev...d-rear-gear-package-for-03-05-jeep-tj-rubicon

This kit should work fine even though my rear axle isn't a "rubicon" 44 correct?

incase anybody else is in the market, with code "poly10" this is the lowest price i've found for a set of revolution gears. ($610)

update incase a noob like myself stumbles across this from google, i just confirmed with revolution gear via phone the thick cut gears i linked will work with an Eaton e-locker as long as it's the "3.73s" and down version
 
3k is higher than what I’d want to be cruising at. That’s just my opinion.
I’m not so sure the factory geared them right from the get-go. Is there any setups where 3.07 would actually be desired?

I’m not trying to start a debate. All I suggested to the OP in my first post was to play with the calculator to find out what he would like, if he’d driven his LJ for awhile he should know what RPMs he likes it to sit at.

Take it up with Jeep. They were fine with even higher rpms and no one complained about it. That didn't happen until the 42rle showed up, which was undergeared from the factory.
 
update incase a noob like myself stumbles across this from google, i just confirmed with revolution gear via phone the thick cut gears i linked will work with an Eaton e-locker as long as it's the "3.73s" and down version

Then you get to decide if you want standard cut gears. In which case you want the 3.92 and up Eaton e-locker.
 
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Then you get to decide if you want standard cut gears. In which case you want the 3.92 and up Eaton e-locker.

i didn't even know this was a thing until now, is one style generally recommended over the other?
 
i didn't even know this was a thing until now, is one style generally recommended over the other?

No idea which is better or if it matters. Historically, the reason we have thick cut gears as an option is because it allows people to retain their existing carriers, LSDs, and lockers and use them on the "wrong" side of the carrier break. Jeep gave us the Rubicon lockers from the factory with thick cut 4.10 gears because that locker was designed for standard 3.73 and down gears.

FWiW, I am among countless others who regeared those lockers with deeper thick cut gears. The incremental evolution of my build has resulted in both my current ARB lockers having thick cut 538s. If I were to buy two brand new lockers today, they would run standard cut 538 gears. But I can't defend one over the other.
 
On what basis do you feel that way?

Heck, I don’t know. Probably by sound.
Honestly it probably wouldn’t be that hard to change my mind if someone could properly prove to me that cruising at 3k is actually BETTER than 2500 in all aspects (drivability, engine longevity, fuel consumption, etc). I don’t doubt it’s better for drivability but the other aspects I kinda question.
 
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No idea which is better or if it matters. Historically, the reason we have thick cut gears as an option is because it allows people to retain their existing carriers, LSDs, and lockers and use them on the "wrong" side of the carrier break. Jeep gave us the Rubicon lockers from the factory with thick cut 4.10 gears because that locker was designed for standard 3.73 and down gears.

FWiW, I am among countless others who regeared those lockers with deeper thick cut gears. The incremental evolution of my build has resulted in both my current ARB lockers having thick cut 538s. If I were to buy two brand new lockers today, they would run standard cut 538 gears. But I can't defend one over the other.

I did a little reading soon after you last comment and the consensus seems to be pretty much what you said here.

I've already blown the budget on this build so in an effort to save a little cash I'm gonna go with thick cut gears to avoid having to buy two new carriers.
 
Heck, I don’t know. Probably by sound.
Honestly it probably wouldn’t be that hard to change my mind if someone could properly prove to me that cruising for at 3k is actually BETTER than 2500 in all aspects (drivability, engine longevity, fuel consumption, etc). I don’t doubt it’s better for drivability but the other aspects I kinda question.

All I know is that mine was all around nicer to drive at those higher rpms. It was never as good in that regard after changes in tire size and the transmission forced me into lower rpms. It wasn't until recently that the supercharger made up for less than adequate gearing and surpassed the prior better gearing. Yet even with the increased power, I would still welcome more rpms.
 
I did a little reading soon after you last comment and the consensus seems to be pretty much what you said here.

I've already blown the budget on this build so in an effort to save a little cash I'm gonna go with thick cut gears to avoid having to buy two new carriers.

Just FYI, this probably means paying double labor down the line to get the lockers you want.
 
Just FYI, this probably means paying double labor down the line to get the lockers you want.

How come? Revolution said the gears would work fine with an eaton e-locker, i was planning on having them installed at the same time.
 
How come? Revolution said the gears would work fine with an eaton e-locker, i was planning on having them installed at the same time.

One of us is confused. You said:
I'm gonna go with thick cut gears to avoid having to buy two new carriers.

Locker is a type of diff carrier. Unless you already have the eaton lockers, you will be paying for 2 new carriers (ie lockers), regardless of whether you go standard or thick cut.
 
One of us is confused. You said:


Locker is a type of diff carrier. Unless you already have the eaton lockers, you will be paying for 2 new carriers (ie lockers), regardless of whether you go standard or thick cut.
yup that's me being a dumbass i get it now i think.

but why would it cost double labor down the line?
 
yup that's me being a dumbass i get it now i think.

but why would it cost double labor down the line?

I thought you said you were skipping the lockers for now, and just doing gears.

Installing lockers at a later time, is nearly the same amount of work as doing them together with gears. So you would essentially be paying for the install labor twice, if you chose to install gears and lockers at different times.
 
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I think it does depend. Personally just from a quick look at the grimm jeeper calculator I’d prob go with 5.13 over 5.38.
5.13=2400rpm @ 70mph
5.38=2517rpm @ 70 mph
Keep in mind these are rough numbers, I just used 34.8” for the tire size.
I tend to like the 2300-2500rpm range, although I’m sure someone will tell me that’s lugging the 4.0L. For cruising on the highway for longer periods I’d rather be closer to 2400.
I also don’t have any crawling around me to do and live on the FLATEST prairies of Saskatchewan, if I did crawling I would prob do 5.38.

Disclaimer: I’m NOT a gearing expert. I’m still running 3.07 with 33s and an NV3550 which SUCKS on all levels.

Have you ever driven a chrysler overdrive auto and experienced how fast they go into their very tall overdrive?the last thing you want on any chrylser 4 speed auto is the gearing you talk about.Focus on regearing your jalopy to 4.56-4.88.
 
Cruising I feel like 2300-2500 is the sweet spot.

You ain't cruising at 2500 rpm doing interstate speeds in a TJ on 35s unless you have significantly more power than a stock 4.0 gives you.

Maybe for short distances downhill with a tailwind but otherwise, not happening.

I can maybe cruise at 2500 rpm at lower speeds in 5th gear. Higher speeds require more power than you get at those rpms.
 
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I thought you said you were skipping the lockers for now, and just doing gears.

Installing lockers at a later time, is nearly the same amount of work as doing them together with gears. So you would essentially be paying for the install labor twice, if you chose to install gears and lockers at different times.

yeah every shop around here is charging $1000 in labor each axle for gears + locker, i definitely don't want to pay that twice.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts