When this happened to me I had to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel level sensor. Of course in my case I figured it was just best to preemptively replace the entire fuel pump assembly which took care of that.
Could try finding the large divot in the center of the fuel skid and give a couple healthy smacks with your largest dead blow hammer to see if you can knock the swing arm free.
Odds are you need to either replace the assembly, or as @Chris mentioned the float valve.
Ok, I figured I'd post this here since I haven't seen it anywhere else. I've been chasing a hard start issue on my tj and got down to the in tank pump. I knew the sending unit was still good, but wanted the peace of mind of having a new pressure regulator and pump. I also didn't want to fork over ~$200 for a new assembly when I knew I could find a pump and regulator for much less. I didn't take pictures during the process because I'm a dumba$$ and this was the last thing I did on a Saturday so I was ready to be done. This only applies for 97-04 TJ's I believe. Assuming you've managed to...
I rebuilt my assembly but the recommended Bosch pump from Brazil lasted two weeks.
Ended up putting a BrutePower fuel pump assembly from Rock Auto in for $80. Works great. Road tripped all the way to and over the Rubicon this summer from Oregon. Gas light comes on a little earlier than I like...about 6 gallons left.
I got the dash lights come on, it was fuse 1 20amp in glove box. But i see the left and right indicators signals stay on, and flash rapidly when I turn left or right.
For the fuel issue, have continuity on these wires highlighted in yellow from the the pump module to the Frame, I know the Z1 wire grounds to the engine block, not sure if the K4 wire suppose to have continuity between the pump and frame..?
There are no ground wires going to the frame, but its not like it is intentionally to be isolated from ground either so the frame could have some ground continuity. For the wire going to the PCM, do you get continuity all the time or just with ignition on? Do all of your other gauges work correctly or have you not gotten far enough on the LS swap to check that? I will note when I put a Genright fuel tank, my gauge showed all the way E until about 7 gallons.