Front Axle U-joints

[Imagineer]

The next mechanical item to be addressed on my ’97 are the front axle u-joints. They’re in bad shape. FYI, I already purchased Spicer 5-760’s

Any advice, tips or warnings regarding this job? In advance, I’ll be applying PB Blaster to the 3 bolts on each side. Should I spring for a 12point impact socket? How screwed am I if the bolts break off?

 

[TheBoogieman]

Be careful putting the axle shafts back in or you'll be taking it back apart to fix the leaking axle seals.

 

[Imagineer]

Well, it's a no-go on getting the wheel hub bolts loose. I've tried all the tricks (freeze spray, heat then wax, hammering, etc.) Broken one 13mm 12pt socket already and still none of the bolts will budge. Assuming the wheel bearings aren't stellar, I'm thinking it's cutting time.

Any reason not to cut the heads off the bolts and, in the course of replacing the axle u-joints, also replace the wheel bearings/hubs and bolts?

 

[MountaineerTom]

If I remember correctly, there is access to the ends of the bolts on the outer side of the hub, behind the rotor. Did you spray any penetrant there?

The best store bought penetrant I've ever used is Kroil. The best homemade I've ever used it a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.

 

[Cooper Smith]

Well, it's a no-go on getting the wheel hub bolts loose. I've tried all the tricks (freeze spray, heat then wax, hammering, etc.) Broken one 13mm 12pt socket already and still none of the bolts will budge. Assuming the wheel bearings aren't stellar, I'm thinking it's cutting time.

Any reason not to cut the heads off the bolts and, in the course of replacing the axle u-joints, also replace the wheel bearings/hubs and bolts?

I had spacers seized to my wheel hubs because a dumbass PO used those shitty bolt pattern adapters. I ended up replacing the hubs, there's no reason not to. If they're original on a rust belt TJ (howdy neighbor btw), there's zero harm in replacing them anyways.

 

[Imagineer]

Yes, I applied penetrant to the exposed ends of the threads. I also wire brushed them before doing do. An old school trick I've previously used with success is to heat the exposed thread with a plumber torch, and before it cools, press a crayon or small candle against the treads and the hot metal wicks in the melted wax. This time however, it didn't help. I've not tried Kroil but will look for it (for the next project).

Of the 6 bolts, 3 were rusted such that the 12pt male features were too eroded for the socket to engage. The other bolts were frozen and strong enough to crack two 12pt 13mm sockets.

Since I'm replacing the bearings, I ended up cutting cut through the bearing casting and subsequently through the bolt. It came apart easily after that.

Unfortunately, I got overjealous seating one of the u-joint bearing caps and shattered it. A replacement Spicer 5670X along with new wheel bearings/hubs and new bolts will be here before next weekend to finish the job.

A new question, when reinstalling the axle shafts, should I smear grease on the spline ends that go into the diff?

 

[CJ with a TJ]

I'm doing my U Joints tomorrow, hoping that the bolt gods are kind to me. I'll also be replacing the hub/bearing assembly and new pads and rotors.

I sprayed the crap out of the bolts the other day with PB Blaster, hoping that'll help.

 

[Cooper Smith]

I'm doing my U Joints tomorrow, hoping that the bolt gods are kind to me. I'll also be replacing the hub/bearing assembly and new pads and rotors.

I sprayed the crap out of the bolts the other day with PB Blaster, hoping that'll help.

Heat. Induction heaters have a good reputation.

 

[CJ with a TJ]

A new question, when reinstalling the axle shafts, should I smear grease on the spline ends that go into the diff?

The videos I watched said to put a little gear oil on the splines and up to the seal ring.

 

[Brianj5600]

Yes, I applied penetrant to the exposed ends of the threads. I also wire brushed them before doing do. An old school trick I've previously used with success is to heat the exposed thread with a plumber torch, and before it cools, press a crayon or small candle against the treads and the hot metal wicks in the melted wax. This time however, it didn't help. I've not tried Kroil but will look for it (for the next project).

Of the 6 bolts, 3 were rusted such that the 12pt male features were too eroded for the socket to engage. The other bolts were frozen and strong enough to crack two 12pt 13mm sockets.

Since I'm replacing the bearings, I ended up cutting cut through the bearing casting and subsequently through the bolt. It came apart easily after that.

Unfortunately, I got overjealous seating one of the u-joint bearing caps and shattered it. A replacement Spicer 5670X along with new wheel bearings/hubs and new bolts will be here before next weekend to finish the job.

A new question, when reinstalling the axle shafts, should I smear grease on the spline ends that go into the diff?

5-760X

 

[Zorba]

I had spacers seized to my wheel hubs because a dumbass PO used those shitty bolt pattern adapters. I ended up replacing the hubs, there's no reason not to. If they're original on a rust belt TJ (howdy neighbor btw), there's zero harm in replacing them anyways.

Yep - as soon as the weather cools down, I'll be doing this job as well. Replacing everything: knuckles, U-joints, hubs, steering components (with XJ), seals, calipers, even the bolts, nuts, and retainers. About the only thing I'm not planning on replacing are the rotors and pads (5 years old) and the axle shafts themselves (although I'll see what I have when I get into it.).

As for getting stuff loose, sometimes just beating on it with a BFH can help.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Unfortunately, I got overjealous seating one of the u-joint bearing caps and shattered it. A replacement Spicer 5670X along with new wheel bearings/hubs and new bolts will be here before next weekend to finish the job.

I did the same thing a few years back. Luckily Oreilys Auto Parts had a Spicer u-joint in stock.

 

[DuckNut]

Yep - as soon as the weather cools down, I'll be doing this job as well. Replacing everything: knuckles, U-joints, hubs, steering components (with XJ), seals, calipers, even the bolts, nuts, and retainers. About the only thing I'm not planning on replacing are the rotors and pads (5 years old) and the axle shafts themselves (although I'll see what I have when I get into it.).

As for getting stuff loose, sometimes just beating on it with a BFH can help.

Go cv in the front and never look back. The lifetime warranty and 20 minute job is so worth it.

 

[Imagineer]

Go cv in the front and never look back. The lifetime warranty and 20 minute job is so worth it.

I might need to replace the passenger side axle. Looks like the yoke on short outer piece got tweaked when removing the old u-joints. Switching to CV axles is appealing. Are there direct swap options for TJ's?

 

[DuckNut]

I might need to replace the passenger side axle. Looks like the yoke on short outer piece got tweaked when removing the old u-joints. Switching to CV axles is appealing. Are there direct swap options for TJ's?

Yes. But one caveat.

No parts book will show cv axles available for the TJ. You will need to have them look up the part number from an xj...just need to know how many splines because there are a couple different ones. O'Reilly has them and lifetime no question asked warranty. Change the wheel bearings while in there. If you suck with tools, it'll take you an hour per side.

 

[Jzeus]

Before you slide the axles back in. Get you a piece of 1.5” or so of pvc, tape it up on the end of a vacuum and run it in and out of the axle tubes so you don’t push dirt and trash in when you slide the axles back in.

 

[Imagineer]

Before you slide the axles back in. Get you a piece of 1.5” or so of pvc, tape it up on the end of a vacuum and run it in and out of the axle tubes so you don’t push dirt and trash in when you slide the axles back in.

Will do. Thanks for the advise.

 

[Rickyd]

Yes. But one caveat.

No parts book will show cv axles available for the TJ. You will need to have them look up the part number from an xj...just need to know how many splines because there are a couple different ones. O'Reilly has them and lifetime no question asked warranty. Change the wheel bearings while in there. If you suck with tools, it'll take you an hour per side.

Don't you mean zj?

 

[TheBoogieman]

Yes. But one caveat.

No parts book will show cv axles available for the TJ. You will need to have them look up the part number from an xj.

XJ is the same as a TJ.

 

[DuckNut]

Don't you mean zj?

All 3 (xj, zj, TJ) have exact same drive shafts. Different housings but same axles.