Dyno Testing Bolt-ons On The 4.0
- Thread starter Jezza
- Start date
I think it's a bent cam. It was straitened once when it was out, but it keeps springing back. I need to replace it and try again.
That would be sick....my cam bearings are chewed too
Thinking of just keeping the same engine I got,with a roller cam setup (Nr128 is what id want) Thinner headgasket. Use the aluminum head I got,shave the block down a tiny bit (to freshen it up) and call it good
....Can't afford a full stroker setup as of now
The Good Ole Nitride and the memory of it that you told me, even after bending it back straight.
I Learned something new!
my cam bearings are chewed too
In the mean time, if its still running, a little thicker soup might nurse it along.
Is that supposed to slow down oil leaks
No, you need straight 70 Nitro oil for that. Takes care of the rear main seal instantly.
No, you need straight 70 Nitro oil for that. Takes care of the rear main seal instantly.
View attachment 640829
Fancy. And expensive.
Just feed in chunks of canning wax until you get the desired thickness.
Hahaaa
F'It, How bout some diff fluid
Since you stated that, I think I might drop some knowledge on you here which could be handy in a pinch, 90 wt gear oil has a viscosity similar to 30 wt motor oil. They are formulated for different purposes, and rated differently, but in a pinch you can run an engine on standard gear oil, or a trans or differential on motor oil temporarily, like to get home.
Some old engine builders and rebuilders will tell you that's what Quaker State used in its first multi grade oil.
I personally drove home 30 miles with 10W-40 motor oil in the 12 bolt on a 74 Blazer after I peeled the diff cover back on a rock.
No harm , no foul .
Honda vehicle owner manuals use to (they might still) specifically state that a 30 to 50 weight motor oil could be used in the manual transaxle, but recommended running a dedicated MTF long term. That's in part where I learned that from.
Yeah, ACL are the ones Newcomer and Hesco recommend.
That said a bent cam is going to destroy anything if that's the problem if that's Jezza's issue on the turbo.
That NR128 would have a pretty wild lope. You might want to check the springs on that Aluminum head can support that. The roller cam lifts sharper than a flat tappet for the same lift.That would be sick....my cam bearings are chewed too
Thinking of just keeping the same engine I got,with a roller cam setup (Nr128 is what id want) Thinner headgasket. Use the aluminum head I got,shave the block down a tiny bit (to freshen it up) and call it good
Can't afford a full stroker setup as of now
You're so close to a stroker build with those parts.
That's what I want/dream of
I want my Lj as a crawler but I've manual swapped it....it'll be an even bigger street machine but a part time rock crawler still (that was the plan till I realized I like some speed in this jeep)Yeah....So close yet so far away(financially). I could do a stroker with a regular cam setup and see how long that lasts (I drive my Lj atleast 18k miles a year) Newcomer on the "horsepower monster" Roller cam setup video he talked about having 15k miles on that flat tappet setup and it was already showing signs of wear,That worries me to say the least!
Later go on I could go with a billet roller cam setup If I decide on doing a regular Ole stroker. (That I could afford within about 6 months maybe? Time will tell)
That's what I want/dream of
Yeah....So close yet so far away(financially). I could do a stroker with a regular cam setup and see how long that lasts (I drive my Lj atleast 18k miles a year) Newcomer on the "horsepower monster" Roller cam setup video he talked about having 15k miles on that flat tappet setup and it was already showing signs of wear,That worries me to say the least!
Later go on I could go with a billet roller cam setup If I decide on doing a regular Ole stroker. (That I could afford within about 6 months maybe? Time will tell)
Where's the burnout video with your new ax15?
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