Dreaded drum brakes

carntsen

Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 18, 2022
Messages
62
Location
Barrie, ON
I know this is asked regularly. I have reviewed the pictures posted onthis forum and compared but cannot find my issue.

Like others report I have that 1/8 gap between the adjuster and star wheel. I verified the green spring is oriented correctly. And have taken apart and re installed 4 times hoping for different results.

Can someone look at my photos below and see if you spot something off?

On the theory of wrong parts, are rear drum parts for all TJ's identical, or the they change by engine, year, axle etc..



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The metal guide that the cable goes around has to be sitting down in the hole completely. I can't tell if yours is or not. It is a pain to get it seated correctly and then the springs attached without it popping back out. If it has come out that could possibly cause your issue. Thought your green spring wasn't right, but after looking at the photos I used when I did mine it is correct.
 
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I know this is asked regularly. I have reviewed the pictures posted onthis forum and compared but cannot find my issue.

Like others report I have that 1/8 gap between the adjuster and star wheel. I verified the green spring is oriented correctly. And have taken apart and re installed 4 times hoping for different results.

Can someone look at my photos below and see if you spot something off?

On the theory of wrong parts, View attachment 573978View attachment 573979View attachment 573980are rear drum parts for all TJ's identical, or the they change by engine, year, axle etc..

It would be of use to know what issue your experiencing....
 
The metal guide that the cable goes around has to be sitting down in the hole completely. I can't tell if yours is or not. It is a pain to get it seated correctly and then the springs attached without it popping back out. If it has come out that could possibly cause your issue. Thought your green spring wasn't right, but after looking at the photos I used when I did mine it is correct.

I think you are onto something. It's definitely not sitting flat and if I push it with a screwdriver I can see the cable tighten and adjuster lift up
 
Had the same issue on mine. What I did that seemed to work was twist the cable with the green spring several times. The extra tension pulls the little thinger into the star wheel teeth more.
I still don’t entirely trust the self-adjuster, or e-brake so I always park in gear, I also live in the flatlands so don’t need it all that much anyways.

Next time I have to touch my drum brakes I’m probably going to end up spending the money on a disc conversion kit. Hate the stupid things.
 
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I think you are onto something. It's definitely not sitting flat and if I push it with a screwdriver I can see the cable tighten and adjuster lift up

You were correct. The hole in the metal guide was very cheaply punched with jagged metal out the back. The spring was hitting a jagged bit making it sit crooked. A little manipulation and it's now sitting flat and adjuster is making contact. Let's blame this one on cheap jobber parts...next time will look for brand name.
 
You were correct. The hole in the metal guide was very cheaply punched with jagged metal out the back. The spring was hitting a jagged bit making it sit crooked. A little manipulation and it's now sitting flat and adjuster is making contact. Let's blame this one on cheap jobber parts...next time will look for brand name.

Wow! I actually helped someone!! LOL Yeah, mine was pretty cheaply made. Not sure one brand is gonna be any better than the next. When I did mine, the passenger side adjuster was a tad too long so my drum would not go back on. Ended up having to take the little piece that comes out of the adjuster off the old adjuster and use it on the new one. I must have torn apart and reassembled that side a half dozen times before my brother just happened to notice a difference between the driver side and passenger side adjuster.
 
One thing to watch for on those cable guides is the lip around the hole. The lip should fit into the hole in the shoe so the plate sits flat against the shoe. The lip can fatigue and break off allowing the guide plate to shift and loosen the cable. I'm wordering if the "jagged bit" mentioned in post #7 is actually a broken lip.
 
One thing to watch for on those cable guides is the lip around the hole. The lip should fit into the hole in the shoe so the plate sits flat against the shoe. The lip can fatigue and break off allowing the guide plate to shift and loosen the cable. I'm wordering if the "jagged bit" mentioned in post #7 is actually a broken lip.

When I did my brakes a month or so ago, the hole in the guide was just punched out and the "lip" was just a couple jagged pieces of metal hanging down. Looks like it was punched with a pointed object, similar to a nail.
 
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Not that I'm helping..now that you have it successfully back together again...but i'd fully remove the parts and clean all that scaley rust off and use your favorite method of treatment/primer/paint.

That scaley rust is going to grow and expand and get flakes of rust into things that should slide and move like the adjuster.

Nice work figuring it out. I always make a video or take pictures when I finally figure it all out to remind myself in 2-4 years what the hell I did.

-Mac
 
When I did my brakes a month or so ago, the hole in the guide was just punched out and the "lip" was just a couple jagged pieces of metal hanging down. Looks like it was punched with a pointed object, similar to a nail.

That doesn't sound too good. If it were my TJ I would replace it.