Do-anything LJ build advice
- Thread starter Marklar1983
- Start date
Alright, in the interest of my driving and fabrication skill levels (and cost), I'll pull back to 35s for the first major upgrade. Going this route, I'm not replacing the axles. I'll build the D44s I have.
Major components I can think of for now:
1) Full cage: Safety first! I've been planning the GenRight kit, but I'm not eager to have the cage holding the dash in. Thoughts?
2) Suspension: I like the factory handling, but I'm not a fan of the factory ride. How much more lift? Coilovers? Outboard rear shocks? Long arm or mid-arm (same thing)? 3 link? 4 link?
3) Steering: Change geometry? Hydro assist? Has to be stable on pavement.
4) Axles: 5.13 or 5.38? ARB lockers or electric? Larger shafts? Cro-mo? Truss?
5) Drivelines: Match to lift
6) Fuel tank: GenRight, larger capacity.
7) Armor.
This is already feeling a lot more manageable, thanks for the feedback so far!
Major components I can think of for now:
1) Full cage: Safety first! I've been planning the GenRight kit, but I'm not eager to have the cage holding the dash in. Thoughts?
2) Suspension: I like the factory handling, but I'm not a fan of the factory ride. How much more lift? Coilovers? Outboard rear shocks? Long arm or mid-arm (same thing)? 3 link? 4 link?
3) Steering: Change geometry? Hydro assist? Has to be stable on pavement.
4) Axles: 5.13 or 5.38? ARB lockers or electric? Larger shafts? Cro-mo? Truss?
5) Drivelines: Match to lift
6) Fuel tank: GenRight, larger capacity.
7) Armor.
This is already feeling a lot more manageable, thanks for the feedback so far!
If the A pillar isn't down tubes that hit the floor, you are seriously overlooking good "cage" design. But there again, you ain't gonna climb in through the window so there is more than a bit of compromise anyway.
Good suspension has practically zero to do with ride quality in reasonable lift parameters. Focus on shocks.
Hard to beat the Rock Jock geometry with some hydro assist.
If you need to truss the axle, you have the wrong axle, go get the right ones. Gears are axle and transmission dependent. 42RLE and 35's in 44's require 5.38's.
That isn't as much fun as you think it is.
Lighter is never not better.
I live in Reno, an hour from the Rubicon and Fordyce. Been on both, just not in my rig. But that is the penultimate goal.
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I agree, the A pillar needs to hit the floor. Are you recommending tubes through the dash rather than the door brackets to accomplish that?
Fair enough, but the suspension determines what shocks I can use. If I decide on coilovers, what is reasonable lift with 35s? How much flex can I achieve?
Is that the CurrectLync? Or crossover?
NSG370; I choose when to shift. Quadratec says 4.56, Omix-Ada says 4.88, Interco says either one. I lean towards 4.56, thoughts?
Why wouldn't I want a larger gas tank? Or is it a low cost/benefit ratio?
So, aluminum?
I have same setup and did 4.88 and am very happy. You arent gonna set any top speed records, but with the Rubicon case its a great combo and can still run on the freeway if needed, I honestly wish I'd have done 5.13's at this point as I do want to build towards 37's and it rarely ever sees speeds over 45 mph.
I did not stutter, or mistype.
Not really. The only reason to go to coil overs is for packaging.
Crossover sucks. Avoid it on the stock axles.
No thoughts whatsover. I don't have the energy to correct all that is wrong in that statement.
You can't get a bigger tank without putting it where it has the highest detriment to ground clearance.
Yes, or none.
(I'm sure this is asked elsewhere, please link if so and I'll update this post.)
Who makes/sells good stuff, and who can't be trusted with my money?
Who makes/sells good stuff, and who can't be trusted with my money?
Just found the How To Install 35s thread, going to peruse that before I ask more questions here that have probably been answered a thousand times 
For reference: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/so-you-want-to-run-35-tires-on-your-tj.2428/
For reference: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/so-you-want-to-run-35-tires-on-your-tj.2428/
This thread went in a surprisingly better direction than expected.
What is the ultimate goal?
lean towards 5.13s ... 4.88s if you are RPM averse and routinely drive at 70+mph
Ok, I have a RE Super Flex 3.5” Short Arm kit that was installed by the OE. I rebuilt the joints and replaced the bushings last Spring. How can I test the shocks? They probably have over 100k miles.
I just ordered a CurrectLync rather than replace the worn stock steering joints.
I’ve ordered an engine tune from FRP, just waiting for the MPVI3 to arrive.
Next up is a SwayLoc, some time this winter. The RE sway bar disconnects push the factory sway bar down to where it interferes with steering travel. Hate ‘em.
Also, need to pull apart the rear diff to figure out why the locker won’t stay locked. If I can fix it, great. If not, time for an ARB.
5.13 Revolution gears planned for spring. I have experience assembling precision compressors with extremely tight tolerances, so I’m planning to set them up myself. Links to good resources for the process would be appreciated.
I need to get a full cage in before next summer, what are people running?
More to come!
I just ordered a CurrectLync rather than replace the worn stock steering joints.
I’ve ordered an engine tune from FRP, just waiting for the MPVI3 to arrive.
Next up is a SwayLoc, some time this winter. The RE sway bar disconnects push the factory sway bar down to where it interferes with steering travel. Hate ‘em.
Also, need to pull apart the rear diff to figure out why the locker won’t stay locked. If I can fix it, great. If not, time for an ARB.
5.13 Revolution gears planned for spring. I have experience assembling precision compressors with extremely tight tolerances, so I’m planning to set them up myself. Links to good resources for the process would be appreciated.
I need to get a full cage in before next summer, what are people running?
More to come!
HenikonLJ
Member
Probably find a custom shop near you and get a cage built with tubes through the dash and not the stanchions that most manufacturers seem to be going with.
5-point harness when I start serious crawling (need cage first). Factory belt for now. No plans for high-speed off-road.
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