Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

DIY big 7 upgrade - have some info, need some info

I mean yes, if your goal was saving money, then you would probably stick with 4ga. And for what it's worth, that kit is $107 from Jeep Cables. Hard to see much room for savings on doing that yourself.

And for what it's worth, 4ga is probably enough for 90%+ of TJ applications. 2ga is what it defaults to on their website so I was just using that as a middle of the road (price wise) example.

100% of TJs rolled off the assembly line with 6awg cables.
 
I never said they didn't. I'm saying "stick with" in the sense that it's the lowest tier their company offers. If you're going to replace the all of the cables at once, you're probably not going to replace them with the same 6ga.

What is the justification to increase the wire size in the first place?
 
What is the justification to increase the wire size in the first place?

Depending on what accessories someone is running, what alternator they're running, and such you may want to decrease the strain on the system. If someone is running a high output alternator, a fridge, a tablet, a winch, a compressor and multiple of these things are going at a time, you could see a voltage drop. Again, not needed for most, but some people also just get peace of mind from knowing something has been upgraded and is not a factor. Pretty cheap peace of mind considering the things we spend money on.
 
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Depending on what accessories someone is running, what alternator they're running, and such you may want to decrease the strain on the system. If someone is running a high output alternator, a fridge, a tablet, a winch, a compressor and multiple of these things are going at a time, you could see a voltage drop. Again, not needed for most, but some people also just get peace of mind from knowing something has been upgraded and is not a factor. Pretty cheap peace of mind considering the things we spend money on.

My only point is that it is silly to put 2awg wire on any TJ electrical system. Especially when no one can offer an objective justification for doing so beyond feelings that bigger is better. The common calculations don't even make sense compared to what OEM does. Warn winch cables seemingly are not even large enough.
 
My only point is that it is silly to put 2awg wire on any TJ electrical system. Especially when no one can offer an objective justification for doing so beyond feelings that bigger is better

Yea, the 2ga is probably too much. But hell, they even offer 2/0 for those that really want to go all out! 🤯 Maybe if you were swapping to a 24v Cummins in your TJ?

However, this still goes back to my original point, that I don't know how much money one would really save (especially at 4ga=$107) by doing it themselves.
 
If the cables can't carry the current, it doesn't matter how big of an alternator you install. This is critical if you have a winch.

The winch is pulling amps off of the battery. Somehow for decades, Warn has been supplying power cables that are seemingly undersized and also no over-current protection.
 
Yea, the 2ga is probably too much. But hell, they even offer 2/0 for those that really want to go all out! 🤯 Maybe if you were swapping to a 24v Cummins in your TJ?

However, this still goes back to my original point, that I don't know how much money one would really save (especially at 4ga=$107) by doing it themselves.
I can tell you from an extremely expensive lesson in cable size that large cables hooked to the small studs on alternators need a really spiffy amount of strain relief to support the cable. Otherwise, vibration and the weight of the cable can cause the stud to fail or the cable lug to fail.

Also reminds me of the sad experience with engine coolant hoses on ambulances. The boss came across these very expensive braided stainless hoses and had the mechanics swap out all the rubber radiator hoses to the new fancy ones that were guaranteed to never fail. They were correct, they did not ever fail but what they did in very short order was break all the hose necks out of the tanks on the copper and brass radiators because they didn't flex as well as rubber did. Bigger, stronger, tougher are not always the attributes we are after. Elegance in design is never wrong.
 
When I installed my winch, I went with batterycablesusa.com - for both the winch cables as well as a significant ground upgrade. They were WAAAAAY cheaper than jeepcables.com, who is just grossly overpriced as far as I'm concerned. Batterycablesusa shipped quickly - out of Kentucky if I remember right - and are top quality.
 
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Go to Your Local junkyard and look for older chrysler 300s or dodge chargers. Yank the Battery cable from those cars. The battery is located in the trunk and it runs all the way to the passenger front seat floor board. The battery cable itself is labeled USA welding wire and is perfect. i think its like 00 gauge. Super flexible. You get like 10ft or more i cant remember.

I used military crimp terminals and crimped them using a vice + big cable crimper. I also used marine grade shrink tubing.

I made my own Battery cables, winch cables, PDC box mini cable. All the materials i purchased was made in the USA: shrink tubing, terminals, etc. No amazon stuff.

Cables was like 20$
tools was around 30
shrink tube and terminals i paid like 20 becuase i was making a lot of stuff.
 
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Here some of the stuff I made

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Dont have to cobble stuff together if we got the correct measurements and parts needed to assemble a kit. And it cost a good bit less than buying a “kit”.

Maybe after you buy the kit you can update this thread with all the measurements?

That might prove helpful to others looking to do the same.
I found it easier to go for the tried and true premade kit.
 
I may just end up just replacing factory to 4awg and upgrading winch. Got to find time to pull and measure everything. About $60 for 4awg factory wiring (based on measurements on first post) and not much more to do the winch.
 
Yeah Class K welding cable is what you want. That's good stuff. Some of those kits would make me question where the copper is coming from, the quality of the wire. Then again if buying in bulk maybe the margin works out if they sell enough.

Making nice cables is a useful skill.

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If you find yourself low on entertainment, join a few of the solar DIY groups and post up those crimps. In short order, there will be a herd of "experts" show up who are more than glad to tell you that you did it wrong. (the crimp, length of gap, lug style, COO, etc) I'm fine with what you're doing with 2 minor changes. I prefer tinned copper lugs to slow down corrosion and your heat shrink looks to be single wall non adhesive lined. The dual wall adhesive lined keeps out moisture better and the melted glue adds some strain relief to the connection. (personal preferences)
 
^ Anyone who spends time modifying, and upgrading classic vehicles (or stereo enthusiasts) should own everything pictured above

You can buy entire crimp kits, shrink kits, and even the tools dirt cheap these days from various sources online. Hydraulic crimp press is a must

Amazon retailers are just taking anything found on AliExpress and Temu and doubling the prices

My position is = Bigger is always better, less attenuation, more current capacity. Any chance you get to update core wiring, go at least a size bigger then OEM. OEM is bare minimum for its era

Im a high voltage utility electrical worker.
30 years of doing custom stereos, and vehicle rewires
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator