Died on the road
- Thread starter Jack72
- Start date
Yes. Dropped it in the trash when they thought I was going to pay for return shipping. Paypal works for me.
p.s. Every decal and emblem from BMB or WRG will be on my Jeep. I swap stuff out because the paint fade difference if you leave a decal on for years.
The Wizard decal hasn't faded in years.
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Whelp, died again. I had replaced the CPS and the issue went away for approx three weeks until this morning. I’m at a loss now. Fuel pressure was good, TPS tested good, CPS seemed like the last thing that could be the problem but obviously it wasn’t.
The crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor need 5V. The PCM reads these during start up, if one is out of whack, then it will not sync with the other and cause issues. Have you looked at the camshaft position sensor?
Pull the CAM (also known as the ignition pickup coil). See if the brass contacts are damaged and/or dirty.
Pull the CAM (also known as the ignition pickup coil). See if the brass contacts are damaged and/or dirty.
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So I’m still tracking things down and now I’m checking the distributor. Can anyone tell me if the rotor should be easy to remove? It turns upon cranking but it will not come off. In videos I’ve watched it appears that it should easily pull right off.
You can pull up the FSM for it under Resources.
On a 4.0, no spark is usually the crank sensor. Also, the cam sensor is used to time the injectors. On the newer models, the PCM will just switch to batch firing them. But on the old ones, a bad cam sensor results in no pulsing. I think the 4 cyl works the same on the older ones.
On a 4.0, no spark is usually the crank sensor. Also, the cam sensor is used to time the injectors. On the newer models, the PCM will just switch to batch firing them. But on the old ones, a bad cam sensor results in no pulsing. I think the 4 cyl works the same on the older ones.
For anyone still following, she’s up and running now and it appears the fuel pump was the problem. Here’s the theory: the first time it stalled out, that was an intermittent failure of the pump.
Since the fuel pressure was good, pump was priming and she started right up the next day, I assuming the pump was not the culprit.
The next failure was the final failure. Crank but no start from then on after the second stall out. I recruited some help and we checked for spark, checked relays, and decided to check fuel pressure again and it was now zero.
I went with a Delphi pump, and followed a good write up from Vasq on how to drop the tank and she now runs.
Here’s to hoping that was the only problem. I now have a back up crankshaft position sensor and distributed rotor.
Since the fuel pressure was good, pump was priming and she started right up the next day, I assuming the pump was not the culprit.
The next failure was the final failure. Crank but no start from then on after the second stall out. I recruited some help and we checked for spark, checked relays, and decided to check fuel pressure again and it was now zero.
I went with a Delphi pump, and followed a good write up from Vasq on how to drop the tank and she now runs.
Here’s to hoping that was the only problem. I now have a back up crankshaft position sensor and distributed rotor.
Thanks for the update, good troubleshooting process. as our TJs age I expect fuel pump replacement in my future,
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