Death wobble / tie-rod ball joints

[explorer_tre]

Had to replace my calipers a few months ago. While doing so I dropped the drivers side tie-rod ends by disassembling the ball joint.

Upon reassembly I noticed more slop in the threads. I have the ball point “overfastened” past the hole for the cotter pin. Even when the castle nut is tight on there I get death wobble.

Should I tighten the nut even more, or is it likely a worn out ball joint? If so, whats the replacement part as it looks like the knuckle ball joints and tie-rod ball joints are different parts.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Had to replace my calipers a few months ago. While doing so I dropped the drivers side tie-rod ends by disassembling the ball joint.

Upon reassembly I noticed more slop in the threads. I have the ball point “overfastened” past the hole for the cotter pin. Even when the castle nut is tight on there I get death wobble.

Should I tighten the nut even more, or is it likely a worn out ball joint? If so, whats the replacement part as it looks like the knuckle ball joints and tie-rod ball joints are different parts.

What do you mean by slop in the threads? Be more specific.

 

[explorer_tre]

It doesn’t feel like its overtightened but it looks like it with where the cotter pin sits. I’m also noticing a bad passenger side axle u-joint. Could that be the issue?

Weirdly enough when I tightened the ball joint this morning it seems to have gotten worse

 

[NashvilleTJ]

It doesn’t feel like its overtightened but it looks like it with where the cotter pin sits. I’m also noticing a bad passenger side axle u-joint. Could that be the issue?

Weirdly enough when I tightened the ball joint this morning it seems to have gotten worse

View attachment 575907

There is definitely something wrong there. The taper / size of the ball joint shaft and the condition of the knuckle bore dictate how far the shaft goes in before it seats. Yours is way too deep. Impossible to tell by the photo, but the ball joint shaft could be worn, the incorrect ball joint for the application was installed at some point, the knuckle bore could be damaged / worn, etc. Do you know if those ball joints have been replaced?

Where are you seeing movement? At the ball, or is the shaft moving?

 

[explorer_tre]

There is definitely something wrong there. The taper / size of the ball joint shaft and the condition of the knuckle bore dictate how far the shaft goes in before it seats. Yours is way too deep. Impossible to tell by the photo, but the ball joint shaft could be worn, the incorrect ball joint for the application was installed at some point, the knuckle bore could be damaged / worn, etc. Do you know if those ball joints have been replaced?

Where are you seeing movement? At the ball, or is the shaft moving?

Ok good to know I’m not crazy because I thought the bolt seemed too long. Not seeing play in the ball joint necessarily, but the opposite side u-joint. I know the needle bearings are toast and ordered new spicer u-joints already

 

[macleanflood]

There's a torque value for those nuts...best non-subjective way of determining things IMHO.

-Mac

 

[explorer_tre]

There's a torque value for those nuts...best non-subjective way of determining things IMHO.

-Mac

There is definitely something wrong there. The taper / size of the ball joint shaft and the condition of the knuckle bore dictate how far the shaft goes in before it seats. Yours is way too deep. Impossible to tell by the photo, but the ball joint shaft could be worn, the incorrect ball joint for the application was installed at some point, the knuckle bore could be damaged / worn, etc. Do you know if those ball joints have been replaced?

Where are you seeing movement? At the ball, or is the shaft moving?

Think I found the issue, just went on a little drive to see where the issue is coming from and my lower track bar bolt decided to go bye bye

 

[LONGJP2]

Think I found the issue, just went on a little drive to see where the issue is coming from and my lower track bar bolt decided to go bye bye

You could also add some washers to the TRE to raise the nut up to the cotter pin.
YRMV

 

[Coadster32]

Make sure that missing track bar bolt gets snugged up pretty well. Doesn't look like it "ovaled" out the frame too bad.
I also agree that something is up with that tie-rod end. Seems like the taper fit isn't quite right.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

You found the problem and that's great.

I will say that I bet your tie rod end is a parts store brand (probably made in china) replacement. At least that's what the parts store brand (probably made in china) replacements looked like on my truck.

 

[LONGJP2]

Make sure that missing track bar bolt gets snugged up pretty well. Doesn't look like it "ovaled" out the frame too bad.

Instead of 'snugged up pretty well', if it's properly torqued an ovaled hole won't even matter.