Build Help: H&R, Body Lift and 33s (questions)

[dschubot]

Working on a budget project to make it out in the rocks this season. In short my questions is, with my existing BOM below, will I need highline fenders to accommodate the 33s with enough room for actual wheeling.

I also know there are a million other ways people will recommend to do this build thats different than what I have below. I appreciate it but I'm not looking for build options on the existing BOM. I am reaching out here as I haven't run high lines before nor can I find any good info on someone running H&Rs with the bodylift along with tires and real work rock experience.

How did I get here, well, the JLUD build I had finally got reaquired as a lemon, kid went to college and got a new car instead of me with the lemon buyback/trade out money. Since she got the new car I have inherited a stock 04 Rubi that was her high school car (yes she has a cool dad).

No budget for a full suspension setup and not sure I will be keeping this jeep more than a year or two at most anyways so not wanting to go with full suspension lift (control arms, track bars, etc). I had been looking at getting this jeep refreshed at near stock height for the 15yo as his first car. At 20 years and 150k of wear springs are shot, shocks are shot and need replacing anyways. This is why I have some of the things like the H&R springs etc.
.
I have a parking lot princess 02 TJ with an overkill build (Savvy CAs and Body, OME springs, JKS trackbars, Currie steering, etc). No lockers and 30/35 plus it was bought new by my dad and I have no intentions of having and opps and possibly totaling it given its one of the few things I have left of his.

Also, Jeep Jamboree has a 33" tire requirement for Texas Spur so thats the requirement I am working on building around. Otherwise, I would have done the H&R, maybe the body lift with 31s and called it a day. With all of that I am looking for "economical" but not cheap build.

BOM for Build
1. H&R springs
2. 3/4" spring spacers for the front
3. New stock isolators for the back
4. Savvy 1.25" bodylift
5. Savvy 1" MM lift
6. Rancho 128/240 shocks and 407 damper
7. Mammoth 15x8 wheels with -19 offset (have on another Jeep I am pulling off for now)
8. 33x12.50 Cooper Evolution MTs (have on another Jeep I am pulling off for now)
9. JKS disconnects

Is anyone running the H&R and Bodylift and what type of clearance are you getting and what size tires are you running?
If you are running this setup (or close) any and all feedback is welcome and appreciated.
Does anyone run this setup with highline fenders and if so, what size tires and how well is the flex and up travel in the setup?
If tire width is the only issue I do have a line to possibly some 33x1050 tires. If that is the one clearance issue I would run into happy to change tires to make this work.

Thanks in advance for all the help. Really appreciate (as does the kid who is bugging me about what we are planning to take to Jamboree this year).

 

[James9100]

Can’t comment on the highlines at all but are you sure you want to bother putting anything into it if you’re planning on selling it in 1-2 years? Resale will always be better on stock.
Sorry for not answering your question, just figured I’d throw in that thought although you’ve probably considered that already.

 

[GregBelleville]

What is the advertised lift in inches for the springs you're planning to use?

The general guidance around here to run 33s is 3" of suspension lift, plus 1 ¼" body lift. This is what I'm currently building towards on my rig.

I'd recommend going with the black magic brakes body lift, better materials and better customer service than Savvy.

 

[jjvw]

Highlines will cost you more than the tires did by the time you are done and tried to do a decent job.

Just get the right springs and skip the spacers.

 

[dschubot]

Can’t comment on the highlines at all but are you sure you want to bother putting anything into it if you’re planning on selling it in 1-2 years? Resale will always be better on stock.
Sorry for not answering your question, just figured I’d throw in that thought although you’ve probably considered that already.

Yep. My kid and I wheel throughout the spring / summer. We love doing it. I could care less on resale right now. Just dont have the bank account to dump in tons of money into it as I would like.

 

[dschubot]

Highlines will cost you more than the tires did by the time you are done and tried to do a decent job.

Just get the right springs and skip the spacers.

Yep, I've priced highlines. Not the cheapest but I have one fender thats has some "16 yo driver wear" that needs replacing anyways. If I am told I dont need highlines or fender/hood cutting thats great. I cant find anyone (as mentioned above) running this setup with any sort of recommendation or experience.

Currie kit (or similar) is around $4k and then still need other things like a DC driveshaft etc. cant just throw on 3"+ springs without doing the supporting components. I have a lot of these parts already from planning to just redo some of the worn components for the younger one anyways which is why the existing BOM is committed.

As far as the springs they are 1" H&R springs so I dont have to deal with control arms or driveshaft angles. I'll update the post but H&R only make 1" so anyone using them or has built something with them would have known and those are the people I am trying to get some real world info from. The 3/4" spacers were simply to take out the rake and level it out some (but does provide a slightly larger area for the tires which is why they are important to this thread). Not looking at a "spacer lift" and thats why its so short and with stock isolators in the rear.

 

[dschubot]

What is the advertised lift in inches for the springs you're planning to use?

The general guidance around here to run 33s is 3" of suspension lift, plus 1 ¼" body lift. This is what I'm currently building towards on my rig.

I'd recommend going with the black magic brakes body lift, better materials and better customer service than Savvy.

Springs are H&R so they are 1". I have had good luck with Savvy before, however, it was all before they were acquired. I'll go back and look through the thread for info on quality post acquisition. I am actually running their CAs BL and MM on another TJ. Zero issues other than they forgot to pack all the right CA bolts. I'll check out the BM body lift as that hasn't been ordered yet.

 

[GregBelleville]

Springs are H&R so they are 1". I have had good luck with Savvy before, however, it was all before they were acquired. I'll go back and look through the thread for info on quality post acquisition. I am actually running their CAs BL and MM on another TJ. Zero issues other than they forgot to pack all the right CA bolts. I'll check out the BM body lift as that hasn't been ordered yet.

I've got the H and R springs on my TJ, installed by prior owner along with a 2"body lift also installed by prior owner. The springs are actually netting me zero lift over stock, probably because of the heavy front and rear bumpers currently on the Jeep, so depending on the weight of your Jeep, you may not get nearly enough lift to clear 33s.

My plan is to swap to 3" Currie coils purchased here from another member and swap the 2"body lift for the black magic brakes kit.

 

[MountaineerTom]

You’re definitely going to want more than the 1” H&R springs for 33’s.

 

[dschubot]

I've got the H and R springs on my TJ, installed by prior owner along with a 2"body lift also installed by prior owner. The springs are actually netting me zero lift over stock, probably because of the heavy front and rear bumpers currently on the Jeep, so depending on the weight of your Jeep, you may not get nearly enough lift to clear 33s.

My plan is to swap to 3" Currie coils purchased here from another member and swap the 2"body lift for the black magic brakes kit.

Thanks, This is a Rubi with no top, and no backseat (will have the dometic fridge in there with a tool bag) and some average steel bumpers. Post I have seen said expect around 1" after settling with this setup so hooping it doesnt come up short. lol

Yea, I wanted to just throw the currie 3 or 4" on and be done but its not been a good year for the bank account. Just trying to get his soon to be daily driver good enough for wheeling this season.

You're also the second person mentioning the BM body. Just talked to them and will prob swap out Savvy for it.

 

[dschubot]

You’re definitely going to want more than the 1” H&R springs for 33’s.

Yep, not getting 33"s with a 1" lift. thats for sure. the question is, the H&R plus the 1.25" body and what does that get me from an optimal tire fit size.

Expected needing highline fenders. Just seeing some pics and calling a few of the manufacturers they are saying you can go 35" on stock suspension and ~2" of combined lift + highlines will make 33s look like donuts on there.

 

[jjvw]

Yep, not getting 33"s with a 1" lift. thats for sure. the question is, the H&R plus the 1.25" body and what does that get me from an optimal tire fit size.

Expected needing highline fenders. Just seeing some pics and calling a few of the manufacturers they are saying you can go 35" on stock suspension and ~2" of combined lift + highlines will make 33s look like donuts on there.

You want about 4" of spring lift. Or about 3" of spring with the 1.25" body lift.

You can certainly do less lift with highlines, but the final costs and amount of invasive work required is far more than most realize.

 

[deadbeat son]

Working on a budget project to make it out in the rocks this season. In short my questions is, with my existing BOM below, will I need highline fenders to accommodate the 33s with enough room for actual wheeling.

I also know there are a million other ways people will recommend to do this build thats different than what I have below. I appreciate it but I'm not looking for build options on the existing BOM. I am reaching out here as I haven't run high lines before nor can I find any good info on someone running H&Rs with the bodylift along with tires and real work rock experience.

How did I get here, well, the JLUD build I had finally got reaquired as a lemon, kid went to college and got a new car instead of me with the lemon buyback/trade out money. Since she got the new car I have inherited a stock 04 Rubi that was her high school car (yes she has a cool dad).

No budget for a full suspension setup and not sure I will be keeping this jeep more than a year or two at most anyways so not wanting to go with full suspension lift (control arms, track bars, etc). I had been looking at getting this jeep refreshed at near stock height for the 15yo as his first car. At 20 years and 150k of wear springs are shot, shocks are shot and need replacing anyways. This is why I have some of the things like the H&R springs etc.
.
I have a parking lot princess 02 TJ with an overkill build (Savvy CAs and Body, OME springs, JKS trackbars, Currie steering, etc). No lockers and 30/35 plus it was bought new by my dad and I have no intentions of having and opps and possibly totaling it given its one of the few things I have left of his.

Also, Jeep Jamboree has a 33" tire requirement for Texas Spur so thats the requirement I am working on building around. Otherwise, I would have done the H&R, maybe the body lift with 31s and called it a day. With all of that I am looking for "economical" but not cheap build.

BOM for Build
1. H&R springs
2. 3/4" spring spacers for the front
3. New stock isolators for the back
4. Savvy 1.25" bodylift
5. Savvy 1" MM lift
6. Rancho 128/240 shocks and 407 damper
7. Mammoth 15x8 wheels with -19 offset (have on another Jeep I am pulling off for now)
8. 33x12.50 Cooper Evolution MTs (have on another Jeep I am pulling off for now)
9. JKS disconnects

Is anyone running the H&R and Bodylift and what type of clearance are you getting and what size tires are you running?
If you are running this setup (or close) any and all feedback is welcome and appreciated.
Does anyone run this setup with highline fenders and if so, what size tires and how well is the flex and up travel in the setup?
If tire width is the only issue I do have a line to possibly some 33x1050 tires. If that is the one clearance issue I would run into happy to change tires to make this work.

Thanks in advance for all the help. Really appreciate (as does the kid who is bugging me about what we are planning to take to Jamboree this year).

Just out of curiosity, why not go with 2" - 3" springs from OME, JKS, BDS, etc. instead of H&R? The cost should be similar and you still can use your stock control arms and track bars, etc. With that one substitution in your parts list (along with the proper length shocks, which will not add cost), you'll be better equipped to clear the 33s. Oh, also, an Old Man Emu rear track bar bracket is $30 and will suffice to re-center your rear axle after a 2-3" lift.

 

[Irun]

Yep, not getting 33"s with a 1" lift. thats for sure. the question is, the H&R plus the 1.25" body and what does that get me from an optimal tire fit size.

Expected needing highline fenders. Just seeing some pics and calling a few of the manufacturers they are saying you can go 35" on stock suspension and ~2" of combined lift + highlines will make 33s look like donuts on there.

I ran H&R springs, 1" aluminum spring spacer, and a 1.25" BL for a short time. That combination won't get you to a 33" tire, if you plan to wheel with it at all. You could bump stop the hell out of it, but that would be silly. The other issue you're going to run into is finding a shock where you could 50/50 bias the travel. The best you could realistically get out of it would be a 32" tire. Still, you'll have the shock and usable travel issue!

 

[Irun]

Just out of curiosity, why not go with 2" - 3" springs from OME, JKS, BDS, etc. instead of H&R? The cost should be similar and you still can use your stock control arms and track bars, etc. With that one substitution in your parts list (along with the proper length shocks, which will not add cost), you'll be better equipped to clear the 33s. Oh, also, an Old Man Emu rear track bar bracket is $30 and will suffice to re-center your rear axle after a 2-3" lift.

^^^^^^Some good advice here. A 3" spring, with a BL and no spring spacer will get you to a 33" tire. You're still going to be limited on finding a good shock setup but it can be done. Just keep in mind your best shock setup will only net you between 8 - 9" total. The trick is finding a set that gives you the 50/50 split. If this becomes an issue, sometimes, a bar pin eliminator can help balance things out for the rear. To be clear, this isn't optimal but can work when you're on a budget.

https://www.amazon.com/ELITEWILL-Re...18-Wrangler/dp/B07YHLLQKV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[LONGJP2]

You're also the second person mentioning the BM body. Just talked to them and will prob swap out Savvy for it.

No reason to swap out Savvy BL for Black Magic.

 

[jjvw]

No reason to swap out Savvy BL for Black Magic.

Correct. The two are functionally identical to each other. If the OP currently has the Savvy, then there is no reason to change it.

 

[L J]

No reason to swap out Savvy BL for Black Magic.

Correct. The two are functionally identical to each other. If the OP currently has the Savvy, then there is no reason to change it.

I believe he means "swap" the Savvy BL for Black Magic Brakes BL in his build plan which I would definitely recommend.

 

[Mike_H]

what kind of highlines are we talking about here? A typical tube fender "hiline" isn't going to get you enough room to run a 33. They really don't give any more room than a standard fender (and sometimes less). Something like the Genright or CrawlTek highline will get you more clearance, but yeah, that's a lot of work to avoid a 3" or 4" spring.