PM me your address and I'll mail one out to you. Use a fish scale to measure resistance.
Budget control arm idea
- Thread starter mobile chernobyl
- Start date
PM me your address and I'll mail one out to you. Use a fish scale to measure resistance.
So Dan, are the Girro joints the same as the DDB by synergy? The synergy cold cut rings are wider that what it seems that clayton spec'd out.
Also you can check the rotational force with a dial torque wrench...also put a 12" long rod and see how many pounds of force to give you a foot pound reading...that would be a standard reading. It would make it a pretty standard reading. If you dont have a force gauge, a dial torque wrench would work. Use a bar like you would a calculate a crows foot or torque adapter. Tim
The Giiro body does appear to be slightly narrower similar to the one Rancho is using. Looking at the amount of poly material there I do not think they are so different to worry about measuring one. I have a few ideas I am toying with for measuring so we will see.
Dan, I am wondering if the wider cold cut rings on the synergy design would limit rotation compared to the narrower Girro Joint ones. I may have to order 1 of each, but I am worried about getting killed on shipping for only one item from each vendor. Tim
I'm signing up here so I don't miss the results of this experiment. Also please start a new thread when you do it. I am very curious to see how much force each takes to misalign.
Then when that is done, see if you can figure out a way to check NVH with each bushing. I have a couple ideas if you need some brainstorming on that.
Then when that is done, see if you can figure out a way to check NVH with each bushing. I have a couple ideas if you need some brainstorming on that.
the specs for the cold cut rings are different between the Girro joints and DDB's are different. Also the LJ is supposed to use some sort of DDB, not sure by who though. Tim
M35A2
TJ Enthusiast
So, speaking of budget arms, has there been any discussion anywhere about the eBay adjustable arms? Whoever did the lift on mine left the stock rear uppers for some reason, so I'm thinking about getting these:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=183568962192
Under a hundo for the pair... they have to be an improvement, right?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=183568962192
Under a hundo for the pair... they have to be an improvement, right?
Nope, not if you want any flex, those have bushings in both ends, the OEM control arms would twist a little allowing the axle to droop, where those would bind.
M35A2
TJ Enthusiast
M35A2
TJ Enthusiast
better, but you want to make sure that the threaded end can be swapped out with a johnny joint, I would not want the poly end personally...what about a rough country upper? it has the rough country end and a celevite bushing, the rough country end can be swapped with a jonny joint when it wears out. What about building your own?
M35A2
TJ Enthusiast
Pardon my ignorance but I'm just switching over from a full-size leaf spring rig, so this is all new to me. I googled Johnny Joint and is that not what is on those eBay arms? Other than the poly vs rubber, the Rough Country looks pretty much identical for $50 more. That bushing is a $5 or so part.
For reference, I'm not going to be doing any extreme rock crawling or even daily driving with the Jeep. I'll take it to my local off-road park maybe ten times a year and drive it to work about the same number of times. I'm just looking for something better than stock that's adjustable.
For reference, I'm not going to be doing any extreme rock crawling or even daily driving with the Jeep. I'll take it to my local off-road park maybe ten times a year and drive it to work about the same number of times. I'm just looking for something better than stock that's adjustable.
Real johnny joints are made by currie enterprises, the joints themselves are over $50 each, you are not going to buy a real jj control arm for $120 new. Other joints are not the same quality. Look at this to help you... https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/true-johnny-joint-vs-generic-flex-joint.18669/page-2
I bought a fake Rolex Submariner watch 40 years ago. It looked just like a real Rolex Submariner. Only a Rolex enthusiast could have told it apart from a real Rolex Submariner. I wore the fake to a local desert lake I was camped at with a bunch of buddies and dove into the water for a quick cool-off. I might have gone as deep as 3'. An hour later while sitting under a shade fly while having a cold beer I glanced at my fake Rolex Submariner to see that it was half-full of water.
So much for the quality and ability of a look-alike to hold up to uses the real product easily holds up to.
So much for the quality and ability of a look-alike to hold up to uses the real product easily holds up to.
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M35A2
TJ Enthusiast
Sure, but you might have paid $50 for that watch instead of a few thousand so you got your money's worth. And I would wager to say that most genuine Rolex watches aren't waterproof, either. A $40 Casio is more waterproof and tells more accurate time. People don't buy Rolex watches because they are good watches. People buy them because they are jewelry for men.
But I digress... since this thread is specifically about BUDGET control arms, that's the avenue that I am exploring. Yes, anyone can go out and spend hundreds of dollars for top-of-the-line parts but if I don't need them because I'm not going hard-core wheeling, then why buy them? My Jeep is already 20 years old and still has the factory arms on a 6" lift. I'm looking to make a slight improvement for safety and durability, not build a rock crawler with 90° of articulation.
Hit the local shops up, get a set of used rough country or rubicon express short arms, swap out the clevite bushings for the Synergy DDB/clayton girro joints and be done with it. you may have $360 into a set of excellent bushings and $100 in a set of used arms, that is what I am into my project so far. I just need to order bushings and get my press going. Tim
How so? That fake watch was less than a couple weeks old if that much.
And while some might think a Rolex to be nothing but jewelry for men. But for me, that wasn't the financial case. I ended up buying a real Rolex Submariner 28-29 years ago. My Submariner is now worth literally more than double in its present used condition than what I paid for it then ($5800). I've had multiple Rolex dealers offer me far more for it than I paid for it. It was a good financial investment and I realized that at the time I bought it. In fact it's not simply a piece of jewelry, I wear it every single day even when I'm working on my Jeep. It's a daily-driver watch in other words. It will end up not having cost me a dime to wear it when I finally sell it.
I'm wearing it right now, it's not just arm decoration.
That $40 Casio you mentioned as an example is worth what used now? A net loss?
Buying first-quality is usually less costly in the end than buying cheap knock-off quality. I'm glad I learned that many years ago.
I will stick with my $89 casio and buy jeep parts!
but to each their own. TimSimilar threads
