Black Magic Brakes Squeaking
- Thread starter Michael Alzen
- Start date
Most squeaks I've found are rubber on metal. Control arm bushings like Bob says and also the shock bushings. You can spray them with tire crap or wd40 to quiet them down.
Mr Blaine.
Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by these being upside down? My black magic pads on the right side are starting to have the same issue.
I'm am amateur wrench and was under the impression pads could o.nly be put in one way. I actually had a local shop put mine in. Do they just need to swap places in the caliper?
Would love to hear what you have to say.
The pads are oriented in the caliper so you have to drop the lower end on the slider first and rotate the top of the caliper forward to seat the pads on the slider. If you put them in upside down, they wind up on opposite sides of the vehicle which means they can go in either way.
I'll have to pull some pictures for you. I think i likely have the same situation being that its only the right side. These were done back in June and only now started to squeak on light braking.
Forgive my non computer-aided drawing.
Hi all.
Quick update, flipped the rotors and its dead silent.
One question however...
Braking seems a little softer on the side that was flipped. I re ran the break in procedure. Will this continue to improve until it levels off like when i first installed?
Quick update, flipped the rotors and its dead silent.
One question however...
Braking seems a little softer on the side that was flipped. I re ran the break in procedure. Will this continue to improve until it levels off like when i first installed?
Hopefully you meant pads instead of rotors because I can't imagine flipping the rotors did anything. Do the break in aggressively, again.
For the sake of my curiosity, why is a pic needed when I've said to set the loaded caliper with pads on the lower slider and lean the top forward to install them correctly? There is no configuration of the pads that will allow them to be installed incorrectly if that procedure is followed. Is it the confusion over what is top and bottom and or front, back, forward, etc?
Mr. Blaine, partial answer, at least from me. When reading the responses from the OP and yourself, when you mentioned that they were upside down (and not listening to your installation instructions), I struggled for a while to find exactly what was wrong on the pictures that were posted. Took me a bit to finally figure it out. I consider myself to be well above average when it comes to working around the garage. (I can give references, LOL.) But I had to ask myself, "Why am I not seeing whatever it is that is wrong?" Once I figured it out, I understood it this way: the end of the pad with the "fork" goes down, the end with the single nub, goes up. (a more layman's explanation?)
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If the fork is up, can you set the caliper with pads on the lower slider and rotate the top forward to install the caliper?
Nope.
But look at it this way, as I did. Going only by posts #1 through #11 where you identified that they were upside down. If someone read your post, and then went back up to the pictures, as I did, and tried to see in the picture what you were seeing, that is where I was, LOL, not seeing it. Hadn't gotten to your post (#24) yet explaining the caliper installation.
But look at it this way, as I did. Going only by posts #1 through #11 where you identified that they were upside down. If someone read your post, and then went back up to the pictures, as I did, and tried to see in the picture what you were seeing, that is where I was, LOL, not seeing it. Hadn't gotten to your post (#24) yet explaining the caliper installation.
Correct, not the rotors the pads were backwards.
As far as installation goes i had a shop do it after I broke a piston on a caliper so i gave them all the parts and said "make it happen". They looked at me like i was crazy when i suggested flipping them.
As far as needing the visual, I'm an amateur wrench and to be quite honest wasnt entirely sure how to orient them based off your description. The visual que with thr forks faceing down is what did it for me. I'm sure more experienced wrenches would know what you're talking about, but visuals always help newbies.
Thanks again all!
As far as installation goes i had a shop do it after I broke a piston on a caliper so i gave them all the parts and said "make it happen". They looked at me like i was crazy when i suggested flipping them.
As far as needing the visual, I'm an amateur wrench and to be quite honest wasnt entirely sure how to orient them based off your description. The visual que with thr forks faceing down is what did it for me. I'm sure more experienced wrenches would know what you're talking about, but visuals always help newbies.
Thanks again all!
I guess but I can NOT for the life of me figure out how anyone can look at a brake pad that can only be installed by placing the "fork" on either slider and then the other end slides in and not tell that. The caliper simply won't install without the "fork" going on first. If it has to go on first, then it can only go on top first and rotate the bottom forward or bottom first and rotate the top forward. There are only two ways it can go, one is right, one isn't.
At the risk of looking like an idiot again, can someone confirm if the rear brakes should be the same direction? I recently replaced the rear pads and they're making noise (not BMB pads). The previous pads were on there with notch facing up so I put the new ones on with notch down as described in this thread and they're a bit noisy.
Have the new pads been in long enough to have seated? Did you try breaking them in with some good aggressive braking with hard stops where you let up on the pedal before it comes to a complete stop?
Are your new pads described as lifetime or long-wearing? If so they might be made of such a hard brake compound that they're going to be noisy no matter what.
I’ve had the new pads on for a couple of weeks now and they seem to be getting worse. I’ll try the aggressive breaking you mentioned.
The pads are Wagner thermoquiets. I don’t believe they’re listed as long lasting etc. my old pads were a little noisy which is why I was replacing them, then I saw the old ones were backwards so I figured that was the problem but went ahead and put the wagners on since I already had them and was in there anyway.
The pads are Wagner thermoquiets. I don’t believe they’re listed as long lasting etc. my old pads were a little noisy which is why I was replacing them, then I saw the old ones were backwards so I figured that was the problem but went ahead and put the wagners on since I already had them and was in there anyway.
Tried the break in but still no luck. I'll probably just bite the bullet and get a set of BMB for the rear since they've been so great up front, and even though the rears don't account for much breaking it'll be nice to have a little extra help back there.
Can you confirm the rears go on in the same direction as the fronts? Notch down?
There isn't a consensus. Some have a notch on top and the lower end slides in with a captive anti-rattle spring. Some have only one notch per side. Put the notch down if it exists, anti rattle spring down if it exists.
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