Bike rack options?

[chili_pepper]

Assuming you could clock it correctly, you could get a length of 1" square tube* (length determined by mounting flange in chosen kit), drill and tap a 1" square cap plate to match the 1/2 x 20 bolt, then weld the cap to the tube. The tube will then thread on the bolt (again, needs to be clocked).....this would replace the mounting flange in either the Yakima or Thule rack kits, providing a square stock stub for the rack. I suspect a drilled and tapped plate would be need to receiver the rack lock and tightening knob as well. I can sketch it up if that doesn't translate...

* 1" is the size of the tube for my Thule, I'm assuming it's the same for the Yakima but can be adjusted to suit chosen rack.

Forget all of that...I think the Thule mount might work with your setup as is....check this photo of the back side (front of vehicle) of item B, the mounting flange...

That bore in the center is ~ 3/4" in diameter, it should clear your bolt. If you think it might work, I can send you my flange to test fit before buying anything.

 

[pbeach]

Do you happen to still have all of the tongues? I am curious what size stock they are and whether they are hollow.

Unfortunately, no, don't have the tongues. It comes with 3 tongues (yes, hollow - closed on one end/threaded):

- small = 195-235 width tire
- medium = 235-275 width tire
- large = 285-12.5" width tire (fit's my 33" M/T spare)

Here's a comprehensive vid:

 

[MikekiM]

Forget all of that...I think the Thule mount might work with your setup as is....check this photo of the back side (front of vehicle) of item B, the mounting flange...

View attachment 628638

View attachment 628639

That bore in the center is ~ 3/4" in diameter, it should clear your bolt. If you think it might work, I can send you my flange to test fit before buying anything.

I had already thought about your prior suggestion. Also thought about just welding a cap on 1" square stock and tapping the cap. Weld a nut inside the 1" stock.

With the pic of the mounting plate (very helpful) I could just ditch the washer and nut. I added them on. Not Bestops original design.

I did find a Yakima rack in kinda rough condition for $25. I was going to pick it up this morning but... Based on early pic shared by @pbeach I see I have a new problem. I use the Bestop High Rock 4x4 cargo basket when camping out of the jeep a few times a month. And many of the places I would camp at are also places I would want to bring the bike. The cargo basket and bike rack would have to play nice.

Here's the rub. I can't (don't want to) raise the cargo basket. And the Yakima rack extends fairly far above the top of the spare. They won't play nice together. Haven't found a picture of the Thule rack mounted yet, but from the post above, it looks like the two pivot points on the racks uprights are secured by carriage bolts. Should be easy enough to cut a few inches off the top of the uprights so they cleaned the basket and drill them and move the pivot arms down a few inches.

I already tried reversing the gussets on the rack in hopes of moving the basket back closer to the rear window. No Bueno. Not enough room.

What's the black component on the top of the passenger side upright?

Here's a comprehensive vid:

Thanks.. saw that vid.

 

[MikekiM]

Pretty sure this is going to work with a little cutting. MP find brand new in box for $150.
And I see that the piece at the top right is the locking cable extension. Might not need that.

 

[chili_pepper]

Haven't found a picture of the Thule rack mounted yet

As mounted on the back of Tess, tire is 31" KO2 (an old one) for reference. The rack folds flat for storage where the bars meet, you can see the cruciform in the black plastic disc just below the top tube on the left side of the rack.

 

[MikekiM]

The Thule turned out to be a real debacle. What felt like a score yesterday is now feeling like a drain in my wallet.

It sits far above the spare and interferes with the cargo basket and the aux reverse lights mounted there-to (which I use often when camping. The height is fine when the basket isn't mounted, which admittedly would be more often than when the basket is mounted.

Modifying it as I thought isn't going to work due to the hoop that is the back side of the bike support arms hitting the tire.

I could run the basket a little higher but it's already higher than I would prefer. And...

... the real problem is the deep dish in my wheels. The rack comes with two lengths of tongue which is the female 1x1 that mounts to the back of the rack and slides over the smaller male post that is on the plate that is sandwiched between the spare and the carrier. The longer tongue is about a quarter of inch too short to mate with the mounting plates post. Thule provides two extension stand-offs that thread into the male post. The short one is too short for the screw on the locking knob to make purchase and the threaded rod on the locking knob bottoms out on the longer extension.

Basically I am fucked every way I turn. Maybe I should have just bought a $39 Walmart bike rack...

Anyway... Since the Thule 963 Pro rack is no longer in production parts aren't too easy to find. e-trailer sells a replacement long tongue (another $49) but I have to call to see if it "longer" or just a replacement for the OE long tongue. Maybe cutting the locking knobs threaded rod and using it with the longer stand-off extension can work?

 

[pbeach]

I had already thought about your prior suggestion. Also thought about just welding a cap on 1" square stock and tapping the cap. Weld a nut inside the 1" stock.

With the pic of the mounting plate (very helpful) I could just ditch the washer and nut. I added them on. Not Bestops original design.

I did find a Yakima rack in kinda rough condition for $25. I was going to pick it up this morning but... Based on early pic shared by @pbeach I see I have a new problem. I use the Bestop High Rock 4x4 cargo basket when camping out of the jeep a few times a month. And many of the places I would camp at are also places I would want to bring the bike. The cargo basket and bike rack would have to play nice.

Here's the rub. I can't (don't want to) raise the cargo basket. And the Yakima rack extends fairly far above the top of the spare. They won't play nice together. Haven't found a picture of the Thule rack mounted yet, but from the post above, it looks like the two pivot points on the racks uprights are secured by carriage bolts. Should be easy enough to cut a few inches off the top of the uprights so they cleaned the basket and drill them and move the pivot arms down a few inches.

I already tried reversing the gussets on the rack in hopes of moving the basket back closer to the rear window. No Bueno. Not enough room.
View attachment 628687

What's the black component on the top of the passenger side upright?
View attachment 628694


Thanks.. saw that vid.

FWIW, just a thought: it wouldn't be a mission to craft-up two new vertical support bars for the basket. Raise it enough to clear the bike rack and, ideally, keep it below the roof top so as not to create wind resistance.

 

[chili_pepper]

The Thule turned out to be a real debacle. What felt like a score yesterday is now feeling like a drain in my wallet.

It sits far above the spare and interferes with the cargo basket and the aux reverse lights mounted there-to (which I use often when camping. The height is fine when the basket isn't mounted, which admittedly would be more often than when the basket is mounted.

Modifying it as I thought isn't going to work due to the hoop that is the back side of the bike support arms hitting the tire.

I could run the basket a little higher but it's already higher than I would prefer. And...

... the real problem is the deep dish in my wheels. The rack comes with two lengths of tongue which is the female 1x1 that mounts to the back of the rack and slides over the smaller male post that is on the plate that is sandwiched between the spare and the carrier. The longer tongue is about a quarter of inch too short to mate with the mounting plates post. Thule provides two extension stand-offs that thread into the male post. The short one is too short for the screw on the locking knob to make purchase and the threaded rod on the locking knob bottoms out on the longer extension.

Basically I am fucked every way I turn. Maybe I should have just bought a $39 Walmart bike rack...

Anyway... Since the Thule 963 Pro rack is no longer in production parts aren't too easy to find. e-trailer sells a replacement long tongue (another $49) but I have to call to see if it "longer" or just a replacement for the OE long tongue. Maybe cutting the locking knobs threaded rod and using it with the longer stand-off extension can work?

...and/or, I think something based on the Thule style could be fabricated to suit your application, reusing some of the hardware. One thing to keep an eye on is how low the bikes would end up when on the rack.

 

[MikekiM]

...and/or, I think something based on the Thule style could be fabricated to suit your application, reusing some of the hardware. One thing to keep an eye on is how low the bikes would end up when on the rack.

This project kept me up last night. Upside is I have a bag full of bits and bobs that I think will make it operational. Haven’t figured out the cargo basket issue…. Yet.

Will update later.

 

[MikekiM]

FWIW, just a thought: it wouldn't be a mission to craft-up two new vertical support bars for the basket. Raise it enough to clear the bike rack and, ideally, keep it below the roof top so as not to create wind resistance.

View attachment 629088

There is room on the existing verticals to raise it but for months I’ve contemplated doing exactly what you describe.. 1x1 stock with welded in gussets instead of the round tubing with bolted connections, with the goal of strengthening the whole.

Haven’t pursued it because of the additional weight of the heavier stock

The basket is rated for about 50 pounds. Add on the heavier stock and the bicycle and there’s not a whole lot of capacity left.

 

[MikekiM]

Well.. It's functional.

Will provide details on the solutions once I take it back off. For now I had to sacrifice the threaded lock knob for a simple M8 1.25 bolt. Pretty easy for someone to steal the whole rig with a 1/2 wrench. Did a quick search for an M8 1.25 x 140 mm safety Torx pan head but came up empty.

This bike is being donated to a coworkers son. I am picking up a Surly Wednesday Fat Bike tomorrow.

 

[MikekiM]

For closure on this project... the Thule rack works just fine. I still have to revise the mounting bolt. Easy enough to install and remove.

 

[chili_pepper]

For closure on this project... the Thule rack works just fine. I still have to revise the mounting bolt. Easy enough to install and remove.

View attachment 641939

Glad the rack worked out for you. How do you like your Surly? Was eyeballing a Bridge Club last year before buying more Jeep parts...

 

[MikekiM]

Glad the rack worked out for you. How do you like your Surly? Was eyeballing a Bridge Club last year before buying more Jeep parts...

Very happy with it so far. I chose it primarily for sand and snow. I want to ride through the winter.
Heavy bike for sure but I am getting old and didn't want to be tempted to do stupid stuff.

My knees don't "knee" so well lately so my backpacking adventures have been on hold for fear of losing a knee twenty miles from a trailhead. Thought MTB might be a lower impact option... It's not as low impact as I thought it might be.

 

[pbeach]

I'm not going to be much help. I don't have a receiver or a spare on the back of my TJ for clearance reasons. In your case, I like @pbeach 's idea. I use my pickup bed or a One Up hitch rack (which is my favorite rack ever, BTW) for MTB transport. Not mine, just a random pic but this style of rack is awesome. Very secure and only touches the tires so no shuttle rub.
View attachment 628120

I would, but I'm afraid of cars so no road biking for me

(Apologies in advance) FWIW, Woodrow... and at the risk of throwing a downer here — that's a fear you might want to hold on to: I was hit by a car in 2019 — TBI (with a helmet) + spinal fusion surgery. Years of neuro issues, pain and recovery. I still ride... offroad-only. No more metro streets. No matter how experienced and skilled you are, how protected, how aware, careful and vigilant — the odds of an accident increase exponentially with the amount of time spent on the asphalt. (especially with streets filled with impatient, aggressive, distracted drivers). It's not if you'll be hit but when.

 

[JMT]

Very happy with it so far. I chose it primarily for sand and snow. I want to ride through the winter.
Heavy bike for sure but I am getting old and didn't want to be tempted to do stupid stuff.

My knees don't "knee" so well lately so my backpacking adventures have been on hold for fear of losing a knee twenty miles from a trailhead. Thought MTB might be a lower impact option... It's not as low impact as I thought it might be.

My knees were giving me trouble too, and while many people thought biking would be good for them that is exactly wrong when you have patellar tendinitis. Once I recovered after 10 months I sold my Intense Sniper Trail and bought a used Trek Rail. So far the stress on the knee is fine and I’m getting out and doing longer rides. Really nice. I love the e-bike.

 

[Woodrow]

… It's not if you'll be hit but when.

unfortunately, true in my experience. I don’t think I know a road biker for any significant duration who hasn’t had a run in with a car.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

(Apologies in advance) FWIW, Woodrow... and at the risk of throwing a downer here — that's a fear you might want to hold on to: I was hit by a car in 2019 — TBI (with a helmet) + spinal fusion surgery. Years of neuro issues, pain and recovery. I still ride... offroad-only. No more metro streets. No matter how experienced and skilled you are, how protected, how aware, careful and vigilant — the odds of an accident increase exponentially with the amount of time spent on the asphalt. (especially with streets filled with impatient, aggressive, distracted drivers). It's not if you'll be hit but when.

I came up on a car vs bicycle fatality on my way to work a few years ago. I was the 2nd car to get there after response had arrived and blocked the roadway. Bicyclist must have been in the zone and made a left turn in front of an oncoming car. Helmets are great but when you take a 50mph impact from a 4,000lb vehicle it only goes so far.

 

[MikekiM]

(Apologies in advance) FWIW, Woodrow... and at the risk of throwing a downer here — that's a fear you might want to hold on to: I was hit by a car in 2019 — TBI (with a helmet) + spinal fusion surgery. Years of neuro issues, pain and recovery. I still ride... offroad-only. No more metro streets. No matter how experienced and skilled you are, how protected, how aware, careful and vigilant — the odds of an accident increase exponentially with the amount of time spent on the asphalt. (especially with streets filled with impatient, aggressive, distracted drivers). It's not if you'll be hit but when.

I spend as little time on roads as possible. No commuting. VERY little road riding.
I do have a loop around my home town that I do a few times a week, but where I live there is very little traffic.

My knees were giving me trouble too, and while many people thought biking would be good for them that is exactly wrong when you have patellar tendinitis. Once I recovered after 10 months I sold my Intense Sniper Trail and bought a used Trek Rail. So far the stress on the knee is fine and I’m getting out and doing longer rides. Really nice. I love the e-bike.

My knees have been surprisingly well when biking. A few times I found myself about to hit a climb in the wrong gear and chose to hammer through it and had no issues with my knees. Surprisingly. I did have a Hyaluronic Gel shot a few weeks ago and though that hurt like all get-out the first few days after, it's been a lot better know.

That said, hammering a climb on a bike can't compare to a long steep drop while backpacking. The combination of repeated extension + sudden jolt of stopping is brutal on knees.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

That said, hammering a climb on a bike can't compare to a long steep drop while backpacking. The combination of repeated extension + sudden jolt of stopping is brutal on knees.

I used to hike to the summits of Colorado peaks and about 5 years ago did a 12ish mile round trip with a good 5,600 feet of elevation gain. Knee started hurting around the top and was killing me the whole way down. Ended up taking longer down than up. I recovered and I've done shorter hikes after that without knee issue but it got into my head and I've been unwilling to try anything that long again. The element of not knowing if it's a problem until I'm at the farthest point from the trailhead is not great.