Battery Tray Rust

I can’t seem to find any way to slide the thing off with those 2 studs at the top and not loosening the fender, how did you manage??

As I remember I was able to pull and push the bracket around to get it over those 2 studs. I was going to remove the bracket from the inside but stopped when I saw it had seam sealer all around it and that's the last thing I wanted to mess with. Just make sure you have all the other bolts removed. It might need a little love tap with a soft mallet to free it up to move around.
 
I’m at the final coatings now… however I’ve noticed the metal started moving from silver to a shiny golden color in some anreas after cleaning it and drying it. Why?

I went ahead with the first coat of rust reformer at that point. Am I good?

After cleaning and drying
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Goldish effect
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I’ve noticed the metal started moving from silver to a shiny golden color in some anreas after cleaning it and drying it. Why?

What did you clean it with? I usually hit bare metal with a few shots of brakleen before painting. Obviously never use water. Bare metal forms surface rust very quickly. Even a day or so is enough for it come back. One time I wire wheeled and needle scaled my front axle on my rusty TJ, all the way down to clean bare metal. Took a family trip out of state for 3 days. When I came back the axle had to be wire wheeled again before painting.

You need to topcoat the rust reformer at minimum. Read the instructions on the paint cans. On heavy heavy rust areas I would use Eastwood rust converter, then rust encapsulator, then 2 coats of rustoleum primer and 2 coats of topcoat. For surface rust I skip the first two steps.

You will know if you did a good job or not. On my TJ the areas I paid attention to and worked hard on with prep still look good to this day after daily driving it in the winter salt and rarely washing. The areas I didn't do enough prep work on the rust came back almost immediately within days.
 
What did you clean it with? I usually hit bare metal with a few shots of brakleen before painting. Obviously never use water. Bare metal forms surface rust very quickly. Even a day or so is enough for it come back. One time I wire wheeled and needle scaled my front axle on my rusty TJ, all the way down to clean bare metal. Took a family trip out of state for 3 days. When I came back the axle had to be wire wheeled again before painting.

You need to topcoat the rust reformer at minimum. Read the instructions on the paint cans. On heavy heavy rust areas I would use Eastwood rust converter, then rust encapsulator, then 2 coats of rustoleum primer and 2 coats of topcoat. For surface rust I skip the first two steps.

You will know if you did a good job or not. On my TJ the areas I paid attention to and worked hard on with prep still look good to this day after daily driving it in the winter salt and rarely washing. The areas I didn't do enough prep work on the rust came back almost immediately within days.

soap and water and dried it. So it’s surface rust. Should I re wire it off?
 
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soap and water and dried it. So it’s surface rust. Should I re wire it off?

The water is what made the surface rust come back, if you already applied the rust reformer I guess just topcoat and see how it goes. The rust reformer is more than adequate for the task of dealing with any light surface rust that may have come back from the water. Do a primer in between the topcoat as well if you can.
 
The water is what made the surface rust come back, if you already applied the rust reformer I guess just topcoat and see how it goes. The rust reformer is more than adequate for the task of dealing with any light surface rust that may have come back from the water. Do a primer in between the topcoat as well if you can.
Thanks
 
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