2005 LJR Flame Red

[DeltaNu1142]

4/26/2025
150,301 miles

The KBD fender flares arrived while I was out of town. I decided to have a look at them this morning, which turned into me trying to put them on.

I did a quick comparison between the width of the OEM front Rubi flare and the KBD front flare:

I didn't get good measurements, now that I'm seeing these photos. But the point is, I expected the KBD flares to be 1/2" wider than OEM Rubicon flares, but I think they might be less than that.

The front one went on easy... the speed nuts were easy to grab on the backside of the fender, and the OEM flare came off quick. I used the supplied plastic fasteners to put the new one on.

I'm not sure yet where the KBD LED marker lights go, but I'm not bothered by it right now.

On to the rear flare... wow. Three nutserts, 2 at front and 1 at back, all spun free of the body & required grinding out. I cleaned everything up with acetone and applied some of the Rustoleum as touch-up paint. I'll put in new nutserts after the paint dries, and need to get some 10-24 bolts to go in.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I feel like if you have a TJ and you don't have a nutsert tool... you're missing out.

I got some fasteners and added 10-24 nutserts to the three holes for the rear fender flare. After that, it went on relatively fine...

...but there's a flaw in the flare. There's no cut-out for the wheel well liner clips:

This bit punches through the sheet metal from the inside and protrudes to the outside of the tub. WIthout a cutout... either the flare stands off the body 1/4", or the liner loses two attachment points.

I could drill out the flare, but it seems a shame to put holes in it and expose the tub within the flare. I'm going to reach out to KBD about it.

EDIT: Here's a better photo of the liner retainer from the other side. And since I noticed I didn't say it earlier, F&$% those OEM rectangular rubber nuts backing those flare fasteners.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

5/2/2025
150,392 miles

I picked up the LJR from the local shop. Got ball joints and valve cover gasket replaced, and found the vacuum leak contributing to the climate control blend door not working.

It’s driving great; steering is a little floaty, so I’ll probably have XJ steering parts under it by the end of summer. Is looking every bit like I can fit 35” tires under the fenders, so I may try it if I find a good deal on some.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Today I figured out that a duck is 1.34 MOA at 100 yards.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

So it's been... 2 weeks since I called KBD about the flare issue? They've told me 2-3 times that they'll email me or call me, and not once have they reached out. I've had to call and follow up each time. The last time I talked to them was a week ago, and they said, "huh, we've never heard that before, our technical team will call you back," and... nothing.

Did they get bought by someone? One of the reasons I felt comfortable buying from them is that I heard their customer service was top-notch. That's not what I'm seeing.

Anyway... in lieu of any kind of response, I'm going to modify these flares. I've designed a mold, and made some templates to locate the problem areas on the flares. I'll print these and then heat up the areas that don't clear, with the goal of creating some clearance for the liners without punching new holes in the flares.

If my templates aren't wrong, these two sliver spots are where the flare needs to be clearanced. Drilling holes would be the easiest thing... but that would open up areas for debris build-up and corrosion:

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Molding the flares with heat is a bust. The material is too resilient for that. Plan B is drilling, but I'd like to hear from JBD first.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

5/26/2025
150,693 miles

Well... I guess I'll be draining & filling the diffs earlier than I'd planned:

It doesn't appear to be serious--the nipple is clean and the vent hose is dangling loose. It couldn't have been like that for very long. I'm picking up some Valvoline 75W-140 this week.

Otherwise, it's running great. I'm casually shopping for 35s.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

5/28/2025
150,692 miles

Drained and filled the rear diff. I bought some hose and my plan was to replace the line, but I just clipped the zip tie at the valve end and moved it down a few inches. Here's the fill plug when it came out:

I don't think that's horrible for a 150k-mile TJ, but maybe someone will tell me different. The drain plug had less metal on it.

On to the fill... I got 1-1/2 quarts of gear oil into the fill before it started coming out of the hole. The diff has a good tilt to it. I tried a number of different ways of pouring another quart into the breather hole... none of them good. I ended up cutting a piece of fuel line about 4" long and lifting the gear oil up above the axle like an IV bag. With nowhere for the air to go, it took awhile. I made a mess of my garage floor.

Someone smarter than me has probably figured out how to get more than 2 quarts of oil into a tilted rear diff without making a mess. But, it's done, anyway.

 

[Wildman]

They make diff covers with raised fill holes.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

They make diff covers with raised fill holes.

See? They is smarter than me.

 

[Wildman]

See? They is smarter than me.

Smarter than most of us....

 

[DeltaNu1142]

6/2/2025
150,7xx miles

I've got gear oil coming out of my rear diff breather. That's good news... when I filled it last week, I started with 3 quarts and ended with zero, and a bunch spilled on my garage floor. Now I know I probably didn't spill more than a pint. Though, given the number of pints I've spilled in my lifetime, I should have known better.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

6/3/2025
150,771 miles

I scored a new set of Bartact front seat covers in black/black for a good price on FB. I would have preferred a charcoal grey, but beggars can't be choosers.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

6/5/2025
150,xxx miles

I threw together a rear deck today, with substantial inspiration from @JEEPCJTJ (read: I completely stole his idea). I ripped 1x4 boards down to 3-1/8" for the framing, and I used two pieces of spare 3/4" plywood that I had laying around.

(This is before the passenger-side panel was attached. It lines up now that it’s screwed down.)

It goes in easiest with the rear seat forward. I don't think it comes out with the seat back. Left to do are:

• polyurethane the top
• carpet it
• add 3D-printed filler panels outside of the roll bars
• add footman loops behind the roll bars for the TrekTop straps
• drill a hole for a hitch pin in the framing to prevent the deck from being pulled up out of the tub when the tailgate is locked
• add some tie downs... probably L track
• screw on a french cleat so I can hang it on my garage wall
• might add a fold-down leg near the center and toward the rear seat for optional reinforcement when needed

EDIT: This morning I put my full weight on the deck and it didn't budge. I don't think I'll need the support leg.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

6/7/2025

My filler panel for the passenger side came out good. Now to model the driver side.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

6/23/2025
150,967 miles

Pretty excited to get these on later today:

These are Mopar Pintler (P5156179) wheels in Argent. Got them bead balanced and picked them up this morning. I'm looking for a 5th and a tire. I'll need to get a few more center caps, too... the other two are missing. Tires are 35x12.5x17 Kenda Klever M/Ts. 1.25" wheel adapters get here today.

Going to need an alignment ASAP.

 

[lBasket]

6/23/2025
150,967 miles

Pretty excited to get these on later today:

View attachment 626149

These are Mopar Pintler (P5156179) wheels in Argent. Got them bead balanced and picked them up this morning. I'm looking for a 5th and a tire. I'll need to get a few more center caps, too... the other two are missing. Tires are 35x12.5x17 Kenda Klever M/Ts. 1.25" wheel adapters get here today.

Going to need an alignment ASAP.

These are my favorite non beadlock wheels for TJs. Nice

 

[DeltaNu1142]

...aaaaaaaand, my rear wheel studs are way too short. I'm glad I started with a rear wheel, or I might have gotten one or two wheels swapped before I figured it out. Thread engagement minimal:

I'm going to have to replace the rear wheel studs with longer ones. Looks like the Dorman 610-449 studs is what I want. I'll have to pick some up.

Disappointed. New shoes delayed.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

7/7/2025
151,066 miles

Jeep aligned. Wheel studs installed. Spacers on. 35s mounted.

The lighting is pretty terrible, but I'm excited about the look. If you've been following along, mounting 35" tires was never a goal of mine. But when the 3"/2-1/2" lift springs net closer to 4" of lift and 33" tires look small... what's a guy to do?

Cons:

• The noise. These Kendas howl from 5 mph on.
• The ride. Below 5 mph, pavement feels like a washboard.
• Tracking. I've got a very slight pull to the left.
• Rear axle alignment. It might be in my head, but my axle looks shifted at least 1/2" to the passenger side. I may not have noticed when the narrower tires were installed, but I do now. I'll have to take some measurements.

Pros:

• 35s, dood.

I do think the LJ looks better with 35s, but maybe that's only because I didn't see it at an appropriate height for 33s.

Caster stayed just above 6°, and toe is 0.15°. The spacers are 1-1/2" RC hub centric. I installed them with red Loctite and will check torque again in a few weeks. Wheels went on with a used set of McGard acorns. Next up is an oil change. And, no more mods for awhile. I mean it this time. Really.

Well... I do have that winch to put on. I'll need wiring for that. Might as well do the Big 7 while I'm at it. Maybe pre-wire for audio...

 

[L J]

I do think the LJ looks better with 35s, but maybe that's only because I didn't see it at an appropriate height for 33s.

It's the former. LJs need a 35" tire at minimum.