Ball joints are one of the things you either luck out and end up reading about ahead of time on the forum, or you find out the hard way after the aftermarket stuff chosen is installed, doesn’t last, you read up on why they are no good, get guided back to stock Dana Spicer, and then find out your inner C holes are too loose and stretched out for Spicers. Now, there are fixes for that, like dimpling the body of the Spicer joints, but you’re better off if you only install Spicer all along.
I have had decent luck with buying parts from Quadratec, but I don’t know that calling them or asking for their advice would have led to me buying spicer. All that info that I specifically have comes from personal experience and discussion amongst the forum. I have stretched out the axle holes before with Synergy ball joints on a previous axle. Those ball joints advertised themselves as stronger than stock and they were dead in less than two years, causing me death wobble on potholes. Then I went to change them back to stock and nope, holes were too large. Stuck with aftermarket until I got rid of that axle.
I like to know what fixed the problem so that if a similar problem comes back years down the road, I have an easier way of identifying what to fix at that point.
I am also good with all new everything, except the problem is a lot of parts these days are junk, and so while what you install may be new, they may also be worse than the used parts you already had that were still in good shape. The reason I single out the tie rod ends is because they live a mostly easy life and don't wear out too much unless subjected to extreme angles. They also require realignment (setting of toe-in and centering the steering wheel) to replace them, which means I prefer to not replace them unless truly needed. If you installed new ball joints, track bar, steering shaft, and steering gear, and still had problems with slop, then I would say get new tie rod ends. I would leave them alone until then. Like I said, they live a pretty easy life in stock form, and so you might be good to just grease them and keep driving. I am running 30 year old tie rod ends on a YJ that are just fine.
The steering gears are known to wear out, the ball joints are too after lots of age and miles, the track bar can be problematic although that is mostly when lifted or running big tires. Steering shaft is hit or miss.
All of what I just said is why it's better to focus on what is actually wrong and causing the slop instead of just throwing all new front end parts at it. Dry steer test has a good chance of showing you what is actually wrong so you can replace that, not waste money, and keep the good quality factory parts where they are still working.
For brands, it just depends. I like Mopar where I can get it, but much of that stuff by Mopar is gone. Moog doesn't seem to be that great anymore according to internet reviews. Mevotech seems mediocre. Napa brand is usually pretty good but expensive and not always available. I have heard their stuff is actually made by Spicer, but haven't confirmed it. You kinda just have to research everything to come up with what is ideal.
I am essentially the same guy as your mechanic, for my neighbor. I do the majority of his work on his 2001 Dodge 1500, and his Cadillac. I research what I can, and we discuss before I do any of the repairs. I buy the parts with his credit card and if something doesn't work out, I return what I can for him. I just did a bunch to his Dodge this weekend, on this very subject: track bar, steering gear, steering shaft, steering damper, ball joints, and control arms. The control arms gave me fits and so I haven't actually replaced them yet. The new steering shaft had slop in it that the original did not have, so we didn't use it and will be returning if possible. Everything else is done. He had huge amounts of play in the wheel, like 6" of slop. It was terrible to drive. All I did the first day was ball joints and track bar, and 95% of the slop was gone. The Dodge has an almost identical design to the TJ, just using heavier duty components for the larger/heavier truck application. I did not touch the tie rod ends at all, and they are still working perfectly fine. I do need to shoot them with some grease though, and the boots could use replacing, so I will probably do that soon.
