2000 Sahara 4.0 Cracked Head

[ChappyJeep]

Well, I’m back. The money pit keeps on getting deeper. My previous post was after I replaced the frame, all suspension and steering, etc.

I just finished replacing the radiator, water pump, and thermostat. Denso and Mopar. Now, it seems it’s still not happy with being saved from the scrap yard.

I may have let it get a little hot while I flushed the coolant (was a little low), but not for long at all. The oil came out super milky. First oil change since I got it, not sure how many miles on it.

As far as I’ve read this is likely a cracked head, right? 0331, and no text on in the oil fill valley under the valve cover. I think it also builds pressure on the radiator cap, which I guess I didn’t attribute to a problem. It also drove fine last night, and stayed right below 210.

So basically I want someone to tell me what I already know. Also, is Clearwater still the go to brand for heads (if it was)? Fel Pro gaskets?

Also, do I need to replace my push rods and rockers? I read the guide on here and it lists them. I only have 77k though. Thanks for the advice. When do these become reliable like they say?

 

[JKP]

Look for antifreeze leaking on the head under the oil cap when at temp. That's where they crack.

Cooling system runs at up to 19 PSI normally.

TUPY casting if you go with a used head

Clearwater head if you want new.

 

[macleanflood]

Felpro head gasket kit, new head studs, don't forget the sealant on the front one.

If I was pulling a head I'd also do crank and rod bearings, new pistons and rings.

And then you can replace the rear main seal, oil pump and timing chain.

-Mac

 

[ChappyJeep]

Look for antifreeze leaking on the head under the oil cap when at temp. That's where they crack.

Cooling system runs at up to 19 PSI normally.

TUPY casting if you go with a used head

Clearwater head if you want new.

Thanks, I’ll do this tomorrow

 

[Gilaguy23]

Felpro head gasket kit, new head studs, don't forget the sealant on the front one.

If I was pulling a head I'd also do crank and rod bearings, new pistons and rings.

And then you can replace the rear main seal, oil pump and timing chain.

-Mac

Heck, its only got 77K on it. Aint even" broke" in yet. No pun intended

 

[ChappyJeep]

It won’t let me embed a video but here is a link:

https://imgur.gg/f/QlmwRWa

I didn’t even get it that hot! There goes my fresh oil change.

 

[macleanflood]

Post it to YouTube and link it here... that's what most of us do.

-Mac

 

[ChappyJeep]

Post it to YouTube and link it here... that's what most of us do.

-Mac

I can do that, but does that Imgur link work? It’s just a video of under the valve cover

 

[Moglocker]

Well, I’m back. The money pit keeps on getting deeper. My previous post was after I replaced the frame, all suspension and steering, etc.

View attachment 661706
I just finished replacing the radiator, water pump, and thermostat. Denso and Mopar. Now, it seems it’s still not happy with being saved from the scrap yard.
View attachment 661708
View attachment 661709
I may have let it get a little hot while I flushed the coolant (was a little low), but not for long at all. The oil came out super milky. First oil change since I got it, not sure how many miles on it.

As far as I’ve read this is likely a cracked head, right? 0331, and no text on in the oil fill valley under the valve cover. I think it also builds pressure on the radiator cap, which I guess I didn’t attribute to a problem. It also drove fine last night, and stayed right below 210.

So basically I want someone to tell me what I already know. Also, is Clearwater still the go to brand for heads (if it was)? Fel Pro gaskets?

Also, do I need to replace my push rods and rockers? I read the guide on here and it lists them. I only have 77k though. Thanks for the advice. When do these become reliable like they say?

You don’t have to,I would if the the ball imprinted into the rocker arm.