2.5 turbo build

Terrrs01

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Mar 20, 2021
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North East Indiana
So as the title says I am doing a 2.5L turbo build on my 97 TJ. I'm currently about 90% done. When I started this build I never planned to put this to the forum, however after seeing a recent turbo question on the forum and the very limited information and parts out there for a 2.5 turbo I figured I would share my experience.

First off I'm sorry about the photos. Again I was not planning on sharing this so I did not have education on my mind when taking these photos. These are simply photos that I randomly took through ought the build.

It all started at Windrock Park in TN. A buddy of our group drag races and has played with turbo's before. I kept throwing around the idea for a few weeks about slapping a turbo on of winter, but it wasn't until the 8 hour drive home from are wheeling trip to where I decided I was going to do it. My goal was simple. Build a BUDGET turbo kit for my jeep for under $600. I was going to ebay turbo it, use a Fuel Management Unit to richen the air fuel ratio, and not doing any real tuning as far as timing, because I was under the impression that you could not tune our ECU since the MAP sensor could not recognize boost (positive pressure) but only vacuum. This is prolly a good time to mention I have ZERO knowledge about turbo's, correct AFR, or timing. But hey it was our last trip of the year and my
jeep was going in the shop for the winter for its yearly upgrade/ maintenance.

Enough with the story. Straight to the info/pics.

As soon as we got home from Windrock Park, TN I washed it, parked it in the shop and pulled the radiator and cut off the down pipe. This was my way of commiting even though I did not have everything planned out. I had a general idea where I wanted the turbo to be located. At this point my only knowledge was the 8 hours of youtube video's I watched on the way home from TN.
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My general idea was to place the turbo in the left lower spot in my engine and run my exhaust between my battery and engine.

Next I had to pick a turbo. At first I was gonna get a used small turbo off a older talon/eclipse, but after several hours of reviews I said screw it and decided on an Ebay turbo. Off hand I cant remember the name of the company or exact specs of the turbo. (will post later) A couple things to keep in mind. This jeep is my toy, not my daily, I put about 4-5K miles on it each year, this was suppose to be a BUDGET build, and with no tuning and using a FMU I'm only going to run 5lbs at most. EBAY TURBO IT WAS!

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I went ahead about bought all the plumping. For the oil feed it was very simple. Our oil pressure gauge is a 1/8'' NPT. I simple just bought a T block and was able to keep the same oil gauge and tap right in with the feed. For an oil return I welded on a bonge to the oil pan. (funny story, mark where you want to weld it BEFORE you remove your starter) I welded it in and was unable to install my starter. Had to cut it off and weld in another
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This specific turbo did have water cooling lines. I believe this common with most turbo's that use journal bearings. For water lines I tapped right into coolant hoses near the core. I believe they were 11/16 maybe 5/8.

So... I bought some 2.5 pre bent exhaust, some 2.5'' V band adapters, grabbed a buddy and slapped a few nasty welds to just hold it in place and BOOM its kinda in place. I used some 1/2 round stock and a plate mounted where my AC would be if the original owner wasn't cheap and skipped that option, to hold the turbo/exhuast in placed...but still able to flex/move with the engine.
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I did have to buy multiple flanges/mounts simply because I did not under stand turbo lingo. Several "ebay special" parts were VERY cheap, and I get why. I had a couple wrapped flanges, that I had to have sanded down, and a few V bands that did not match up, so I had a buddy of a buddy tig weld the correct one on for me.
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Next I started working on my intercool. Again you'll notice a pattern here.. Not knowing what I was doing, it was WAY easier to mount the very small intercool behind the radiator. Why not?? it lined on perfectly. So I did. I later found out that it could actually be WORSE than not running a intercool at all, since all that hot air coming from the radiator is no heat soaking into my intercooler. You will see in later photo's that I did change that location.
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You can see on the above image where I ran my downpipe from my turbo. I did have to trim the batter tray a little, and move a few ground wires to different location so they didn't get burnt. You can also see on this picture I decide NOT to use a BOV. I personally didn't want to spend the money on one at time and really did care too much if I lowered my "life" of my $120 ebay turbo by 10% from compressor surge. You'll see in later photo's I changed my mind lol.

Now is a good time to mention my Fuel Management Unit (FMU). Fancy name for what it is. You can see in at 12oclock in the pic above. It is that round shinny blue thing. NOW.. remember at this time I though I had two options. Run a FMU on the cheap @ lower boost and don't tune OR spend lots of time and money on a stand alone ECU (which I known absolutely nothing about). A FMU is simply a way to richen your air fuel ration. It directly increase fuel pressure based off of the amount of boost it see's in your manifold. so in the case I bought a 12:1 FMU. it will Mechanically raise my fuel pressure 12psi FOR EVERY 1psi it see in the manifold. With my fuel cell and external pump I have a set fuel pressure @55. So at 5lbs of boost your talking 115psi in the fuel system. CAN YOU SAY SKETCH???

Long story short. I spent wat to much time/money and was not happy with it. I had to run completely new fuel lines AND RETURN LINES!!! which our jeeps dont have. You can see the mess of rubber fuel lines in the photo below.
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Long Story short, I was so fed up with these fuel lines. They felt unsafe, VERY sketch, and not to mention I had like 25 different connections. At this same time I came across a FB page called 4.0 boosted, and soon discovered HP tuners actually had software for dodge/jeep and would be able to tune my jeep the correct way, with out any stand alone or piggy back ECU, and it not being too expensive. To be honest at this point I was already WAY over my $600 budget. SO.. I did it.
I ripped out ALL the fuel lines I put in, and went back to my old fuel system and ordered HP tuners. I can't remember what it cost exactly, but it was near $350. The nice thing about this is now I felt a little more comfortable to get up in that 7-8lb range.
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Next you can see that I swapped my intercooler around and installed m BOV.
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While I had the jeep down for several months I figured I would replaced the manifold to be safe, and do a DEEP clean on the intake.
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I also had to install a wide band to read my AFR. I ended up welding a bung about 18" from he turbo on the downpipe. you can see it right near the battery. In this same photo you can also see where I tapped into my water lines.
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One problem I did have with the this Ebay turbo is the external wastegate is kinda random. I did some testing and it would not open until like 25lbs. I did try to rig up a few springs to help relief/rig it up, but I was unsuccessful. (seen previous post). So I did end up having to buy another external waste gate with changeable springs. Another note is these Ebay turbos have very bad air flow through their wastegate, so I did spend a significant amount of time porting it.
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Lastly I installed a boot gauge and electronic inline fuel pressure gauge.
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SOOOOO... CURRENT STATUS: waiting on a few fuel line adapters to have it running again.
I installed some 30lb fuel injectors a few days ago
I bought a 1998 grand prix 2 bar Map sensor
and have been messing around with HP tuners softerware but not have actually hooked it up to my jeep yet.

From here on out (not much) maybe i'll take some more pics lol, BUT PLEASE!!!! this is not meant to be a "how to" or a tutorial at all.
This is just me sharing my hard learning curve on something I knew nothing about but slowly learning. I'll keep this post updated on how tuning goes.

The down side to HP tuners is since it is so new, there are almost no references to go off of. At least that I'm aware of.
Thanks!
 
Check out Split Second tuner site. They have one unit that can read your boost and and send the signal to your PCM making it think you have a stock MAP sensor.

https://splitsec.com/
Also have you looked thru this guide? I was going to do this to my 4 cyl before I decided to do a engine swap instead.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/1997-2002-jeep-wrangler-tj-2-5-turbo-install-guide.33022/
Man that’s one fancy 4banger! That looks like a pretty decent set up.

I considered a split second for awhile, but ended up defaulting with hp tuners. I got ahold of a few guys in the 4.0 boosted FB group since boosting the the 4.0 is much more common. And luckily most guys just switch to a 2 bar or 1.5 bar MAP sensor and then just rescale those values within the tuning software.

I was initially going to use a 4.7 zenior diode to limit the return signal to the PCM, but once I ditched the FMU I was able to ditch the diode too.
 
Man that’s one fancy 4banger! That looks like a pretty decent set up.

I considered a split second for awhile, but ended up defaulting with hp tuners. I got ahold of a few guys in the 4.0 boosted FB group since boosting the the 4.0 is much more common. And luckily most guys just switch to a 2 bar or 1.5 bar MAP sensor and then just rescale those values within the tuning software.

I was initially going to use a 4.7 zenior diode to limit the return signal to the PCM, but once I ditched the FMU I was able to ditch the diode too.

Sounds like you have it under control and moving along well. Back when I was looking into some type of forced induction (Turbo/Supercharger) there wasn't as much tuning software available so SplitSecond was about the only option. Since HP tuners now covers all years it sure seems to have opened up a lot more options for people.

Look forward to reading about this once you have it finished.
 
The downside of using a factory computer it lack of safe gaurds. A piggyback stand alone can monitor many sensors and pretty much save an engine it there is an issue. If the boost is over target a stand alone can cut fuel. If a/f gets too high under boost same thing. Unusual combustion events, detonation, pre-ignition, etc, causes the rings lose seal and pressurize the crankcase. If you have a MAP sensor measuring crankcase pressure you can use it to cut fuel, pull timing, add fuel, cut spark. Data logging is my favorite thing with stand alone.
 
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The downside of using a factory computer it lack of safe gaurds. A piggyback stand alone can monitor many sensors and pretty much save an engine it there is an issue. If the boost is over target a stand alone can cut fuel. If a/f gets too high under boost same thing. Unusual combustion events, detonation, pre-ignition, etc, causes the rings lose seal and pressurize the crankcase. If you have a MAP sensor measuring crankcase pressure you can use it to cut fuel, pull timing, add fuel, cut spark. Data logging is my favorite thing with stand alone.

The whole tuning thing is all new to me. I ran tuners on my Ram Cummins diesel trucks but that is as far as I've gone.

I'm setup with Flyin Ryan Performance to tune my engine once I get it running. I have a wide band O2 and other required items to data log and then send Ryan the files to build me a tune.
 
The downside of using a factory computer it lack of safe gaurds. A piggyback stand alone can monitor many sensors and pretty much save an engine it there is an issue. If the boost is over target a stand alone can cut fuel. If a/f gets too high under boost same thing. Unusual combustion events, detonation, pre-ignition, etc, causes the rings lose seal and pressurize the crankcase. If you have a MAP sensor measuring crankcase pressure you can use it to cut fuel, pull timing, add fuel, cut spark. Data logging is my favorite thing with stand alone.
Hmm. I never thought about that. I hoping the lack is safe guards is “ok” with my minimal low boost. I have seen a few guys instal knock sensors, but again I hardly know what I’m talking about lol. Last week was the first time I ever even saw a fuel or timing table.

-I guess my only safe guard is my wideband, however I guess that’s just showing me info after the fact, and that’s assuming I’m actually looking at it.
 
The whole tuning thing is all new to me. I ran tuners on my Ram Cummins diesel trucks but that is as far as I've gone.

I'm setup with Flyin Ryan Performance to tune my engine once I get it running. I have a wide band O2 and other required items to data log and then send Ryan the files to build me a tune.
Can I be noisy and ask how much or a general ballpark he charges? I really considered having that done. I got HP tuners to attempt it myself obviously, but I also got it as a diagnostic tool for my other vehicles too. If i end up not feeling comfortable or get completely fed up with tuning myself he was going to be my first call!

-also I saw you said “once I get my running” what set up are you doing? Turbo/injectors/tuning combo?
 
Can I be noisy and ask how much or a general ballpark he charges? I really considered having that done. I got HP tuners to attempt it myself obviously, but I also got it as a diagnostic tool for my other vehicles too. If i end up not feeling comfortable or get completely fed up with tuning myself he was going to be my first call!

-also I saw you said “once I get my running” what set up are you doing? Turbo/injectors/tuning combo?

https://www.frptuning.com/
It depends on which tuner you choose to go with. I have a V-8 swap in mine and have a Dodge magnum 5.9 with a stroker kit making it a 6.7. Running a 46RE auto trans and STaK's 3 speed transfer case.

I also have a 6 Pack throttle body intake for it.

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Hmm. I never thought about that. I hoping the lack is safe guards is “ok” with my minimal low boost. I have seen a few guys instal knock sensors, but again I hardly know what I’m talking about lol. Last week was the first time I ever even saw a fuel or timing table.

-I guess my only safe guard is my wideband, however I guess that’s just showing me info after the fact, and that’s assuming I’m actually looking at it.

You are right about low boost being forgiving. With 6 or 8 pounds of boost it allows some mistakes when tuning. learn to read the spark plugs and you will be fine.
 
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That one pretty pic!

Thanks.

Contact Ryan and talk to him about what your goal is and your plans for the build and see which tuner and software he thinks will work better for you. He has a lot of knowledge and works with a lot of people who are running forced induction motors so this isn't something he knows nothing about.
 
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update: got a tad more done now. I finished up the new fuel system. It’s much more simpler now. And reinstalled the turbo using this new copper gasket for the V bands

-installed the new MAP sensor to my firewall and will eventually T into blue boost reference lines you see. I still need to find out with wires are which since rock auto clip has all white wires. As of now tho I’m still using the stock map sensor.
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I got the need to drive it BAD today, even tho it isn’t tuned. This is the first time it’s really been running in the last 4 months so I took it out anyways. Current stock tuning, 30lbs injectors, on the stock map sensors.
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-Felt pretty good (while it lasted) 5min in I came home. Let it cooled down and it would no restart. Then I got a Camshaft code. Took a peak at my sensor/distributor and my shaft on my distributor was VERY sloppy. Way too much movement and a little oil In it. I’m assuming the bearing finally wore out after 150K.

-Spent a good hour putting the new one in, and boom.. back in the road good as new!

-sooo my thoughts:
-it honestly didn’t run that bad for no tune. It had a little hesitation when the boost initially kicked it. I kept it semi safe just by paying attention to my wide band. Stayed in the 12’s during boost and 10’s at idle. Obviously a little fat down low.

-did it add power? YES
-A lot? Ehh not that much, but noticeable for sure

-I still need to adjust my BOV, because it was not working at all. I could hear my compressor surge. And my exhaust for sure needs to be quiter. As of of now it’s straight piped stopping right near the downstream 02.

-I also need to figured out this V band leak. I’m guessing it’s the Chinese ones I bought. Now that I have my turbo centered to where I wants I may just compl

-This time out I put about 20miles on it, and almost made it home until I notice I was smoking out ever car on the highway behind me. Turned out my oil feed line got to close to my downpile and out a hole in it. Lol

-I’ll keep you guys posted on how the tuning works out. And if I break anymore stuff.