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The metal lines intersect at he vent IIRC with a block. That block is attached to the axle tube several inches away from the pumpkin with a hollow bolt and the vent line attached to it and then up to the frame back buy the tank..IIRC. Only comment I have is the vent attached to the cover may be...

Here I am at 65 living a great life of trips in the west where we lived until recent. Jeeps, backpacking, traveling, trucks, bikes, PWC's. I always told myself ahhhh..I dont need to take pics, I'll remember the trip. Yeah some of them I do, but damn, not like I hoped. Things have become cloudy...

Im sorry for the loss of a friend. Its hard to say what would have changed him as folks sometimes "give up" so to say. We recently moved across country and left 2 of the best friends I had, both alcoholics. One in such poor health now, I suspect his fate the same as your friends, the other to...

In 90% of the cases one can start a nut and grab it with vise grips and tighten it while the VG's are wedged against something. Far as washers or?? it depends on what it is and how heavy it is. I might plate the backside. Far as SS bolts, eh..sure. Our hardware supplier always told us their all...

Personally had no luck with them . 🥴

Being I have a can of trans cooler fittings, I doubt you'll be able to get the line over that one. IIRC those fittings are basically just a straight fitting with that single ridge and its pretty big. I think they are designed for the plastic snap on type lines. Me personally Id pull that...

Yeppers, FB or craigslist. Ive found a few sets myself.

What about Crocks (sic) Dont visit KY if its a no go. I think their the state (approved) shoe here.

Im sure your thinking save a buck and yes thats OK, but it goes something like this. The bitterness of a bad decision will easily outlast the thrill of saving a buck.

RE the Cat. It may be fouled up from oil blow by in the exhaust ,so be prepared to replace it if necessary. I will tell you, you will gain NOTHING in the way of power or MPG removing it provided it isn't already plugged up or falling apart inside. For one, the stink of fumes will gag you. Remove...

Head and block like in long block? Lift the body on a TJ...NO. remove the radiator and front grill section OK. Why not buy the entire running engine?

Heres an idea for you. Being in KY as of 8 months ago I see my share of rusted out 4.0 equipped jeeps ready for the junk yard. There's gotta be a decent priced/good running engine to be had to get you going. The 4.0 is pretty bullet proof and even finding one with 200K on it is a consideration...

It sounds like your engine is done. Basically no compression in 2 cylinders, low in a 3rd. I personally doubt its burnt valves and more like just worn out. Even a bad head gasket would not give all the issues you detail. The rattling?? Hard to define on line, but rattling mains or rod bearing(s)...

Get a cheapo H/F mechanic stethoscope and try to home in on the culprit. Playing guessing games in a metal box can be deceiving.

If you been around wrenching for decades you'd remember "Flex fans" . Thin aluminum blades that flatten out at RPM to save power and MPGs yet cool like a winter blizzard at low speeds due to their extreme ability to move air. Almost as convincing of BS as a K&N rock strainer. Id guess it was...

Chrysler electrics strike again. Dang lucky you noticed this before tragedy struck. I'm my many jeeps, never seen or heard of that one. if it was a GC then Id not be surprised.

Is it blowing out around the base where the gasket was or should be or up thru the dist? At any rate that much crankcase pressure sounds weird.

The imbalance between the cylinders isnt great. The 111 on 6 is not good either.

Ouch. Id try cleaning up the female end with a fine file, clean it real good and slip it on the T case end and see/feel if its real smooth and slides easy. Looks like the splines were mismatched and forced to go with no luck.

If that's a pic of your TJ, Id say its already looks lifted 2".