Modoc Guy builds a Jeep
- Thread starter Modoc Guy
- Start date
Yeah, couldn’t wait till tomorrow, so after dinner I yanked out the ABS pump and master cylinder!
I want my Jeep rollin again!
So yesterday evening I got the ABS pump and master cylinder out, so today I could focus on getting my new stainless brake lines in.
I bought a kit from Lines To Go, and I liked how they looked when I got ‘em, and I liked them even more putting them in. And the whole kit was only $179 bucks, well worth it IMHO.
The back line and the left front were a cinch, the front right took a little doing but since it’s made it 2 pieces, that helped a bunch.
The only trouble I had was sneaking the front right under the rubber cushions at the corners of the grille.
But I just pried the cushion up with a big screwdriver and slid the line in. Once you get both sides in they join at a union under the front bumper.
Once they’re in and screwed into the proportioning valve, they look pretty much like stock.
Then I figured I’d get the master cylinder cleaned up and ready to go back in. Boy was I surprised when I looked inside!
I knew it had some sediment in it, but it was more than that. It was some nasty black crap that I couldn’t rinse out.
And that’s after I tried scrubbing around with an acid brush and isopropyl alcohol.
So, I’ve got a new master cylinder from Rock Auto on the way. A Centric brand. Couldn’t find an OEM in stock, but I’ll keep working on cleaning mine up and put a rebuild kit in it for a spare.
Tomorrow it’s off to the driveline shop for a front driveshaft rebuild, and hopefully, my conversion u joint will finally get here. Damn UPS has rescheduled the delivery 3 times!
I want to button up all the mechanical work and move on to installing and plumbing the locker pumps. Maybe I can get them done before the master cylinder shows up!
I bought a kit from Lines To Go, and I liked how they looked when I got ‘em, and I liked them even more putting them in. And the whole kit was only $179 bucks, well worth it IMHO.
The back line and the left front were a cinch, the front right took a little doing but since it’s made it 2 pieces, that helped a bunch.
The only trouble I had was sneaking the front right under the rubber cushions at the corners of the grille.
But I just pried the cushion up with a big screwdriver and slid the line in. Once you get both sides in they join at a union under the front bumper.
Once they’re in and screwed into the proportioning valve, they look pretty much like stock.
Then I figured I’d get the master cylinder cleaned up and ready to go back in. Boy was I surprised when I looked inside!
I knew it had some sediment in it, but it was more than that. It was some nasty black crap that I couldn’t rinse out.
And that’s after I tried scrubbing around with an acid brush and isopropyl alcohol.
So, I’ve got a new master cylinder from Rock Auto on the way. A Centric brand. Couldn’t find an OEM in stock, but I’ll keep working on cleaning mine up and put a rebuild kit in it for a spare.
Tomorrow it’s off to the driveline shop for a front driveshaft rebuild, and hopefully, my conversion u joint will finally get here. Damn UPS has rescheduled the delivery 3 times!
I want to button up all the mechanical work and move on to installing and plumbing the locker pumps. Maybe I can get them done before the master cylinder shows up!
So, now I’ve got the front and rear driveshafts ready to go back in, but it’s been too hot in the afternoon to do anything.
And since this morning I had to install a ceiling fan in my daughters bedroom, I’ll attack that install tomorrow morning when it’s cooler.
And since this morning I had to install a ceiling fan in my daughters bedroom, I’ll attack that install tomorrow morning when it’s cooler.
Yeah, driveshafts are in, and tightened up. Spent some time hitting all the zerk fittings under the Jeep as well.
So now, I’m waiting on the master cylinder to get here. But I’m not taking a break, I gotta cut some holes in the Rubicon switch panel I got from Dead Jeep.
I’ll put the ARB switches in the flat section where the ash tray would be, they’ll run the compressor and front locker.
I’m gonna put a factory type switch in the #4 switch hole and use it to run the Rubi pump for the rear axle.
And I guess that means I need to pull the dash apart again! I’ve pulled it apart a few times, getting to be a pro at that.
More pix to come....
So now, I’m waiting on the master cylinder to get here. But I’m not taking a break, I gotta cut some holes in the Rubicon switch panel I got from Dead Jeep.
I’ll put the ARB switches in the flat section where the ash tray would be, they’ll run the compressor and front locker.
I’m gonna put a factory type switch in the #4 switch hole and use it to run the Rubi pump for the rear axle.
And I guess that means I need to pull the dash apart again! I’ve pulled it apart a few times, getting to be a pro at that.
More pix to come....
Well damn, I think FedEx lost my master cylinder package from Rock Auto! Should’ve been here Monday. 
But I’ve still got lots to do. I put the oil in the diff’s today.
Mounted and installed the ARB locker pump Monday.
Cut the big assed ABS pump plug out of the wiring harnesses and patched it up when I was done.
Had to modify the bracket that the stock Rubicon locker pumps mount in. It wouldn’t mount where it goes in a Rubi because the skid pan is different.
And since I’ll only be running one pump, I cut the bracket short and reworked it, then welded it back together in a box configuration.
It’ll get mounted under the drivers side passenger footwell.
I’ll post some pictures when I get it installed.
And I’ll probably run the air lines for the front and rear pumps If it’s not too hot.
It’s been in the mid to high 90’s in the afternoons lately, that makes it tough to work out in the sun on the wonderful gravel driveway!
But I’ve still got lots to do. I put the oil in the diff’s today.
Mounted and installed the ARB locker pump Monday.
Cut the big assed ABS pump plug out of the wiring harnesses and patched it up when I was done.
Had to modify the bracket that the stock Rubicon locker pumps mount in. It wouldn’t mount where it goes in a Rubi because the skid pan is different.
And since I’ll only be running one pump, I cut the bracket short and reworked it, then welded it back together in a box configuration.
It’ll get mounted under the drivers side passenger footwell.
I’ll post some pictures when I get it installed.
And I’ll probably run the air lines for the front and rear pumps If it’s not too hot.
It’s been in the mid to high 90’s in the afternoons lately, that makes it tough to work out in the sun on the wonderful gravel driveway!
The progress looks nice, I am excited to see how this build will turn out. Best of luck with your project.
Alright, got going mounting the Rubi locker pump. This is the hardware I used to make standoffs with. A 1/4-20 X 1” carriage bolt, a thick 5/16” flat washer, and a serrated flange nut.
To start, I fit the pump in the position I wanted it at and marked the first hole. I drilled it 1/4” and then made it square with a square rat tail file.
I mounted the pump bracket with one bolt so I could mark the other 3 holes accurately, then drilled and filed them to mount the standoffs.
That’s how they fit. The thick washer takes up the extra length of the square head, and gives a good surface for the serrated flange nut to bite.
Here’s all the standoffs in place.
And here’s the pump and bracket in place.
That puts it in a perfect position to pick up the harness clips to run the wiring to the front, and gives the breather and supply hoses a straight shot back to the rear differential.
And using carriage bolts makes for a nice low profile finish in the interior footwell.
The other 2 bolts are right at the back edge of the drivers seat.
And I can still pop the drain plug out in that footwell and it won’t douche the pump.
I sealed under the carriage bolt heads with weather proof rain gutter sealant to keep water from seeping in from rainy weather.
I’m hoping the location will be safe enough from getting damaged when I’m off-roading. Couldn’t really think of a better place to put it.
What do you guys think?
Finished off the day running the air supply line for the ARB from the HP30 to the pump.
It’s got a few places it could rub and chafe, so I got some rubber hose I’ll insulate it with in the places I think it needs it.
So tomorrow I think I’ll finish that, and then plumb the rear pump supply and breather lines.
Probably start taking the GTS and gas tank down. I need to fix the straps, so I’ll do the tank vent mod, and tie the pump breather up where the Dana 44 vent line is at the same time.
And I’m still waiting for my master cylinder! Damn FedEx!
To start, I fit the pump in the position I wanted it at and marked the first hole. I drilled it 1/4” and then made it square with a square rat tail file.
I mounted the pump bracket with one bolt so I could mark the other 3 holes accurately, then drilled and filed them to mount the standoffs.
That’s how they fit. The thick washer takes up the extra length of the square head, and gives a good surface for the serrated flange nut to bite.
Here’s all the standoffs in place.
And here’s the pump and bracket in place.
That puts it in a perfect position to pick up the harness clips to run the wiring to the front, and gives the breather and supply hoses a straight shot back to the rear differential.
And using carriage bolts makes for a nice low profile finish in the interior footwell.
The other 2 bolts are right at the back edge of the drivers seat.
And I can still pop the drain plug out in that footwell and it won’t douche the pump.
I sealed under the carriage bolt heads with weather proof rain gutter sealant to keep water from seeping in from rainy weather.
I’m hoping the location will be safe enough from getting damaged when I’m off-roading. Couldn’t really think of a better place to put it.
What do you guys think?
Finished off the day running the air supply line for the ARB from the HP30 to the pump.
It’s got a few places it could rub and chafe, so I got some rubber hose I’ll insulate it with in the places I think it needs it.
So tomorrow I think I’ll finish that, and then plumb the rear pump supply and breather lines.
Probably start taking the GTS and gas tank down. I need to fix the straps, so I’ll do the tank vent mod, and tie the pump breather up where the Dana 44 vent line is at the same time.
And I’m still waiting for my master cylinder! Damn FedEx!
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I think it's a good location and you did a great, clean job installing it.Alright, got going mounting the Rubi locker pump. This is the hardware I used to make standoffs with. A 1/4-20 X 1” carriage bolt, a thick 5/16” flat washer, and a serrated flange nut.
View attachment 261368
To start, I fit the pump in the position I wanted it at and marked the first hole. I drilled it 1/4” and then made it square with a square rat tail file.
View attachment 261369
I mounted the pump bracket with one bolt so I could mark the other 3 holes accurately, then drilled and filed them to mount the standoffs.
View attachment 261370
That’s how they fit. The thick washer takes up the extra length of the square head, and gives a good surface for the serrated flange nut to bite.
Here’s all the standoffs in place.
View attachment 261371
And here’s the pump and bracket in place.
View attachment 261372
That puts it in a perfect position to pick up the harness clips to run the wiring to the front, and gives the breather and supply hoses and straight shot back to the rear differential.
And using carriage bolts makes for a nice low profile finish in the interior footwell.
View attachment 261374
The other 2 bolts are right at the back edge of the drivers seat.
And I can still pop the drain plug out in that footwell and it won’t douche the pump.
I sealed under the carriage bolt heads with weather proof rain gutter sealant to keep water from seeping in from rainy weather.
I’m hoping the location will be safe enough from getting damaged when I’m off-roading. Couldn’t really think of a better place to put it.
What do you guys think?
View attachment 261375
Finished off the day running the air supply line for the ARB from the HP30 to the pump.
It’s got a few places it could rub and chafe, so I got some rubber hose I’ll insulate it with in the places I think it needs it.
So tomorrow I think I’ll finish that, and then plumb the rear pump supply and breather lines.
Probably start taking the GTS and gas tank down. I need to fix the straps, so I’ll do the tank vent mod, and tie the pump breather up where the Dana 44 vent line is at the same time.
And I’m still waiting for my master cylinder! Damn FedEx!
Well it looks like FedEx found my master cylinder package.
Now get this, I paid $15 for 2 day express shipping, and I live in Northern California, and the package shipped from Fresno, which is central California.
You’d think it would go to NorCal Redding hub, then to me, right?
Right now, the package is in Troutdale Oregon, which is basically the Portland area!
What kind of logic sends a package 375 miles past it’s destination? It’s no wonder FedEx can’t hold a candle to UPS!
And believe me, I’m no huge fan of UPS, but that’s just f-ing stupid!
So maybe I’ll get the 2 day express package in a week if I’m lucky! Or who knows, maybe it’ll get a trip to Seattle before it gets to me!
Now get this, I paid $15 for 2 day express shipping, and I live in Northern California, and the package shipped from Fresno, which is central California.
You’d think it would go to NorCal Redding hub, then to me, right?
Right now, the package is in Troutdale Oregon, which is basically the Portland area!
What kind of logic sends a package 375 miles past it’s destination? It’s no wonder FedEx can’t hold a candle to UPS!
And believe me, I’m no huge fan of UPS, but that’s just f-ing stupid!
So maybe I’ll get the 2 day express package in a week if I’m lucky! Or who knows, maybe it’ll get a trip to Seattle before it gets to me!
We had a crate that needed to go to 4 hours away into Wisconsin. UPS decided to put it on a train to Chicago (6 hours via car) and then put it on a truck to the location in Wisconsin 5 hours from Chicago. Neither company makes any sense.Well it looks like FedEx found my master cylinder package.
Now get this, I paid $15 for 2 day express shipping, and I live in Northern California, and the package shipped from Fresno, which is central California.
You’d think it would go to NorCal Redding hub, then to me, right?
Right now, the package is in Troutdale Oregon, which is basically the Portland area!
What kind of logic sends a package 375 miles past it’s destination? It’s no wonder FedEx can’t hold a candle to UPS!
And believe me, I’m no huge fan of UPS, but that’s just f-ing stupid!
So maybe I’ll get the 2 day express package in a week if I’m lucky! Or who knows, maybe it’ll get a trip to Seattle before it gets to me!
I watched UPS drive right by my house at 30 mph. Then saw him mark the package "undeliverable" as he couldn't find the address (my wife was tracking the package). He wasn't even looking! It was a Friday and he probably wanted to get off early. Figured it would be easier to just mark the package undeliverable than to stop and drop it off.
Neapco is what came on the Adams Offroad rear shaft I just got the other month. It was only used on the single u joint that bolts to the rear axle. The CV had Spicer joints in it. I've heard good things about Neapco, a local driveline shop uses them as well. I always try for Spice though.
Well, it finally got here!
I hope it had a good time in Portland while it was there!
I hope it had a good time in Portland while it was there!
Lots of partying and carrying on, probably. You know they don't have cops there!Well, it finally got here!
I hope it had a good time in Portland while it was there!
Well, got the master cylinder in and all the lines tightened.
And got the rear locker pump in and plumbed too.
Now I got to bleed the brakes, but that’s a cinch. I’ve got one of those bleeder pots, and they make brake bleeding easy!
But that’s gonna have to wait till the middle of the week. I’m in Idaho, visiting my 92 year old uncle, swapping out his 50 gallon water heater, sweating my ass off!
Wha’cha gonna do!
And got the rear locker pump in and plumbed too.
Now I got to bleed the brakes, but that’s a cinch. I’ve got one of those bleeder pots, and they make brake bleeding easy!
But that’s gonna have to wait till the middle of the week. I’m in Idaho, visiting my 92 year old uncle, swapping out his 50 gallon water heater, sweating my ass off!
Wha’cha gonna do!
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You are a fine nephew, Modoc.Well, got the master cylinder in and all the lines tightened.
And got the rear locker pump in and plumped too.
Now I got to bleed the brakes, but that’s a cinch. I’ve got one of those bleeder pots, and they make brake bleeding easy!
But that’s gonna have to wait till the middle of the week. I’m in Idaho, visiting my 92 year old uncle, swapping out his 50 gallon water heater, sweating my ass off!
Wha’cha gonna do!
Finally got back to the Jeep. Got the brakes bled, and everything else locked down, so it's time to take this pup out for a ride.
Gotta follow the new gear break-in procedure, wouldn't want to mess up all that time and money.
Now, it's been days since the above happened. I've been trying to post pictures, but for whatever reason, I can't. From my phone, or laptop, it's a no-go for pix.
But, no worries! The Jeep's been doin good. I might have a little vibe issue, but it's hard to tell around here. Most of the roads around here are like driving on a corn cob! Soon as I can go long and far enough, I'll see if I have to adjust either the front or rear pinion angles.
I've started skeletonizing my rear bumper. I'd like to post some pix of that, maybe later. That may interest some of you. Although it's a Smittybilt XRC with the spare tire swing-out, it's worked well, and doesn't rattle. It's only issues were it's weight, and the receiver hitch.
But, I've cut the receiver out, and a bunch more as you'll see one of these days!
Now, it's back to hackin' and hewin' on that ol' bumper!
Gotta follow the new gear break-in procedure, wouldn't want to mess up all that time and money.
Now, it's been days since the above happened. I've been trying to post pictures, but for whatever reason, I can't. From my phone, or laptop, it's a no-go for pix.
But, no worries! The Jeep's been doin good. I might have a little vibe issue, but it's hard to tell around here. Most of the roads around here are like driving on a corn cob! Soon as I can go long and far enough, I'll see if I have to adjust either the front or rear pinion angles.
I've started skeletonizing my rear bumper. I'd like to post some pix of that, maybe later. That may interest some of you. Although it's a Smittybilt XRC with the spare tire swing-out, it's worked well, and doesn't rattle. It's only issues were it's weight, and the receiver hitch.
But, I've cut the receiver out, and a bunch more as you'll see one of these days!
Now, it's back to hackin' and hewin' on that ol' bumper!
Hitch receiver cut out.
There it is where it belongs, in the dirt.
That’s the end section cutout layout.
Now I’m laying out part of the center section.
All the holes are in for the cutouts. I’ve drilled the holes to have a radius at the cutout corners rather than a sharp corner. They’re structurally more sound like that.
Setting up to weld in a filler for the receiver cutout.
There’s the fill piece, all formed and ready to go.
And there it is all welded in and sanded out. It’s not filled in completely because the hole that’s left will be part of a cutout.
Also started taking all the sharp edges off the recovery lugs, don’t wanna cut my soft shackles. I’ll finish the inside of the holes later.
There she is, ready for the plasma torch tomorrow.
I think I might put a few more holes in it here and there, I’ll consider the where and what type after I’ve got the big cutouts done.
I’m thinking of doing some round holes in a more decorative pattern, like from large tapering to small.
I’ve got a bunch of different sizes of hole saws, and I might play with them.
We’ll see.........
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