My main comment is: beautiful manicure, Mike…
Nice work tracking down that connector. I’ll tuck that away for future me.
A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
My main comment is: beautiful manicure, Mike…
Nice work tracking down that connector. I’ll tuck that away for future me.
Reading through your last several posts made me grimace because its so familiar. You turn your back for a second and half a dozen little issues pop up that you are tempted to just live with because it will take hours to sort them out
good job staying on them.
Reading through your last several posts made me grimace because its so familiar. You turn your back for a second and half a dozen little issues pop up that you are tempted to just live with because it will take hours to sort them out
good job staying on them.
ain't that the truth. Been trying to focus on my motorhome and other stufff, but the Jeep just keeps begging for attention!
Just got back from a wheeling weekend. My poor girl needs some attention. Nothing broke on the trip...but she's definitely feeling the neglect from working on the motorhome. Lots of creaking, squeaking, and groaning from my suspension. Gotta pull my arms, AGAIN, and clean up the joints. I think I'm going to start looking into a DDB or something that will fit the housing. Cleaning johnny joints after every trip is getting old.
I just happened to find one of my transmission cooler lines is getting abraded by the steering shaft. The nylon braided line I used to plumb the Setrab cooler is getting nicked by the bolt head on the pinch fitting at the box. Thankfully, I just happened to catch it and was able to zip tie it out of the way before it failed. I NEED to fix that before too long. That would be a bad day.
Finally, the stupid Sierra offroad top that I bought a couple years ago is going in the trash. It fit decent, but it was pretty flappy at speed. Also, they use shit zippers, and two of them broke already. I tried sewing a new zipper on, but that didn't work out. I must have missed an index mark or something. Anyway...I bought a new MasterTop fastback style yesterday. Should be delivered early next week.
Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some mud to get off the Jeep.
Four different colors of mud!
Sticky, nasty, smelly, mine mud...
I just happened to find one of my transmission cooler lines is getting abraded by the steering shaft. The nylon braided line I used to plumb the Setrab cooler is getting nicked by the bolt head on the pinch fitting at the box. Thankfully, I just happened to catch it and was able to zip tie it out of the way before it failed. I NEED to fix that before too long. That would be a bad day.
Finally, the stupid Sierra offroad top that I bought a couple years ago is going in the trash. It fit decent, but it was pretty flappy at speed. Also, they use shit zippers, and two of them broke already. I tried sewing a new zipper on, but that didn't work out. I must have missed an index mark or something. Anyway...I bought a new MasterTop fastback style yesterday. Should be delivered early next week.
Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some mud to get off the Jeep.
Four different colors of mud!
Sticky, nasty, smelly, mine mud...
The cries of horror you just heard were from the WTJF southwestern US members.
New Top Day!!!
Ended up going with a twill MasterTop. $800 vs $1450 or something crazy for the Twill Bestop was too big a difference in price. I'm really impressed so far with the material build quality. This is the 3rd soft top I've had (OEM from 97, then a Sierra fabric set, now this) and this is, by far, the best quality I've had my hands on. The tubing is a bit heavier, the fabric is WAY nicer, and the windows are thicker. The fit is very good too. I have her parked out in the sun today to hopefully relax the shipping creases. I also have one corner that is not going in, so hoping a little sunshine will help with that as well. I could have probably fought it last evening when I installed, but didn't want to ruin or fold the piece of plastic that grabs the tub.
First drive will happen tonight. Will post my thoughts on wind flappiness.
Also, the Jeep needs another wash to REALLY rid herself of all the RedBird mud...
Ended up going with a twill MasterTop. $800 vs $1450 or something crazy for the Twill Bestop was too big a difference in price. I'm really impressed so far with the material build quality. This is the 3rd soft top I've had (OEM from 97, then a Sierra fabric set, now this) and this is, by far, the best quality I've had my hands on. The tubing is a bit heavier, the fabric is WAY nicer, and the windows are thicker. The fit is very good too. I have her parked out in the sun today to hopefully relax the shipping creases. I also have one corner that is not going in, so hoping a little sunshine will help with that as well. I could have probably fought it last evening when I installed, but didn't want to ruin or fold the piece of plastic that grabs the tub.
First drive will happen tonight. Will post my thoughts on wind flappiness.
Also, the Jeep needs another wash to REALLY rid herself of all the RedBird mud...
Quick update on the new top. Wife and I went for a quick ride around yesterday. Happy to report the top is pretty quiet. It’s not a hard top, but we could converse at normal volume. No flapping, but you can hear the air rushing past. With the HVAC off, there was a very low tone to it…not droning, but I could see that being a bit annoying. Turning the HVAC on took care of that, though.
So far, I’m very happy with this top.
So far, I’m very happy with this top.
I'm due for a new replacement. Been running the factory soft top that I bought used for some time, and it is plain wore out. I do like the fast back look, but have battled with trying it thinking it would be even noisier than my factory style top. Good to hear your report on the noise level. I'll stay tuned as you clock some more miles with it.
This is definitely quieter than the factory soft top, and my sierra replacement, but not sure how match material factors into it vs shape.
oh, in case anyone wants to know what a clay bottom mud pit takes to get through…
I noticed that they make a "fabric only" version that utilizes your factory soft top hardware. You just remove the 3rd bow from the frame. What made you decide to get the whole kit vs. this option being you have the factory soft top hardware already? Just curious.
My factory soft top hardware is pretty beat...Something I bought used when I first got the jeep. I decided I just wanted to give it the best chance of success, so I bought the whole kit and kaboodle. The other thing I noticed is the "sunrider" option probably wont work without their door surrounds. Their mid bow attaches to the door surrounds, vs being a hinged bow that just rests on the over the door supports like the factory square back. I really wanted the sunrider feature, so that swayed me as well. Download their install instructions and it will make more sense.
I think all my escapades in the mud have ruined a u-joint. I heard some chirping a couple days ago, that went away pretty quickly. Now I have a pretty loud grumble/growl in drive and reverse, but goes away in neutral. Transmission is still shifting fine, so I suspect its the rear shaft...but who knows. I was underneath giving things a once over Sunday (when I first noticed the noise) and I still have a LOT of dirt packed up on the belly skid, so a contact with the tub vibration is not out of the question either. I'll start with a good clean, then, I'll pull the rear D/S and drive in 4WD to see if anything changes.
Last time I played in mud like that I got the chirping from the front double cardan joint. They seem more prone to water intrusion than most.
Makes a lot of sense. I think for the extra $200 it would be a nice upgrade. Ok, you've convinced me.
To add, I want to know how you like, or don't like, the sunrider feature. Was it worth the extra fun coupons?
I actually really like it. Not a ton of buffeting or flapping noise, but all the sun you can want. Plus, its a LOT faster to flop it closed when you get where you're going, vs screwing around with zipping windows back in.
Well, my rear driveshaft is Garb, as I suspected. Center ball is gone. Will be sending it back to TW tomorrow for a rebuild and inspection. In the last two outings I've been on, I have gotten myself into some nasty deep mud. After the last time, in Sept, I was pretty negligent with maintenance and didn't do any greasing of the driveshaft joints. I pretty much parked the jeep and ignored it for 6 months. Pretty sure that started the wear...then Redbird clay coal mud finished it off.
Get out and grease your CV joints, people!
Get out and grease your CV joints, people!
Not much going on. Got my rebuilt driveshaft from TW, and I still have a small vib. Think its the front one...or pinion angle. I seriously haven't had ANY time to work on the poor thing. Well, not completely true. I did get a new tailgate installed.
It includes the DIY aluminum skin I bought, oh, I don't know, three years ago? I need a new set of hinges (high quality ones) so I think @Fluxor is making them? Will send a message. These one are from a 98 I think, and they don't seem to want to close all the way...VERY tough to get the gate all the way shut.
I'm also getting more rattle for 1-2 seconds on a cold start. Sounds like a rod knock, but it goes away as soon as I build oil pressure. Kinda up in the air with what I want to do with this thing. I have good shocks, ready to go. Been holding off on that until I get a frame. Then...there is the engine issue. She still runs pretty well, but that knock has me concerned. I'm thinking timing chain...but who knows. So...Do I fix it, buy another and build a stroker, Go for a engine swap (I like the idea of the 4.2 Trailblazer engine, Atlas) or LS?
My front Diff is giving me fits. Sounds like the locker plates are sliding past each other when I try to lock it. SOOO, I'm looking at either fixing that or going to an aftermarket. But...Maybe I should swap axles. I already have JK wheels...should I look for JK axles (I'm aware of the issues).
Then I've been driving JK's and JL's lately...and they drive SO much better than a TJ...more power, stronger frames, less lift for same size tires, etc...and 2012 and newer JK's are getting cheaper by the day. They are comfortable, quiet, and you can drive 65 mph and still have passing power!
Ideally, I'd buy a JK for CHEAP and figure out how to mount the TJ to it. That is a project for a much less busy person though...so I'll probably keep this thing and hopefully finish the motorhome this winter, so I have time to take the TJ down for some much needed R&R.
It includes the DIY aluminum skin I bought, oh, I don't know, three years ago? I need a new set of hinges (high quality ones) so I think @Fluxor is making them? Will send a message. These one are from a 98 I think, and they don't seem to want to close all the way...VERY tough to get the gate all the way shut.
I'm also getting more rattle for 1-2 seconds on a cold start. Sounds like a rod knock, but it goes away as soon as I build oil pressure. Kinda up in the air with what I want to do with this thing. I have good shocks, ready to go. Been holding off on that until I get a frame. Then...there is the engine issue. She still runs pretty well, but that knock has me concerned. I'm thinking timing chain...but who knows. So...Do I fix it, buy another and build a stroker, Go for a engine swap (I like the idea of the 4.2 Trailblazer engine, Atlas) or LS?
My front Diff is giving me fits. Sounds like the locker plates are sliding past each other when I try to lock it. SOOO, I'm looking at either fixing that or going to an aftermarket. But...Maybe I should swap axles. I already have JK wheels...should I look for JK axles (I'm aware of the issues).
Then I've been driving JK's and JL's lately...and they drive SO much better than a TJ...more power, stronger frames, less lift for same size tires, etc...and 2012 and newer JK's are getting cheaper by the day. They are comfortable, quiet, and you can drive 65 mph and still have passing power!
Ideally, I'd buy a JK for CHEAP and figure out how to mount the TJ to it. That is a project for a much less busy person though...so I'll probably keep this thing and hopefully finish the motorhome this winter, so I have time to take the TJ down for some much needed R&R.
Long time, no update. Jeep is just sitting in the garage, on a tender. I have a list of stuff to do over the winter, when time allows.
Firstly, I FINALLY got a decent set of half doors. Rust free, paid to have them shipped up from Texas. They are not perfect, but neither is the jeep they are going on. They ARE black though, with Mist gray interior panels. Those were sprayed with SEM Landau Black.
Last couple of years, I've had to be really careful pulling my key, because its worn to a point of being able to be pulled out any old time you want. Bought a new Dorman ignition and got the "code" off the keys provided and what was installed in the ignition cylinder. Now, I'm rekeying my doors to match the new keys. I tried to get a Key cut to VIN, but after the first dealer ship I went to looked at me like I had toes growing out of my forehead, and quotes online of 50-75 dollars, I figured I'd just buy the little lock cover plates and rekey all my existing locks.
Fun thing I learned in this process...1997-2001 Jeeps have different lock cylinders than 2002-current. Even more fun? My half doors are mixed. The driver's side is 2001 and lower, the Pass side is 2002 and up. My full doors are both 2004, and my tailgate is from a 98. So, I have a nice mix of lock cylinders. I kinda knew this already, and purchased a couple extra lock cylinders from the earlier models...however, they don't actually work in the later model doors. The cut out is just a bit big, and there is too much flex to activate the locks.
I have some REALLY nicely restored lock cylinders, if anyone is interested? 1997-2002, New Yellow Chromate Zinc coating! I think I'll have three of them extra when its all said and done.
Next week or so, I should get the motorhome stuff to a point I can get my shop cleaned up to receive the Jeep. I have the new shocks to go on. They are Fox performance series, 10" travel in factory location until I get a new frame. You may remember my rebuild thread on those (LINK) I have a bunch of transmission cooler stuff to install. I have purchased a oil thermostat since my trans runs pretty cool in the winter...like less than 100° F. Last wheeling trip I took (back in MAY
) I noticed one of my cooler lines was routed too close to my lower steering shaft, and the locking collar has been wearing away at the tubing. Its not perforated, yet, but I'm SUPER glad I noticed it. I zip tied it out of the way and its been good, but I need to fix that. With that impending disaster and the thermostat, I'll be replumbing my entire transmission cooling scheme. Right now, routed to the Setrab, then the radiator, then transmission. With the thermostat, I'll flip the sequence, so the cooling will happen as designed from the factory, until the thermostat opens and routes the fluid through the Setrab. I think in my Climate, the Setrab was actually overkill. Doing it this way should help maintain proper temps in the transmission. When extra cooling is necessary, it will be there (the thing is remarkably effective), but otherwise, it will be factory.
What else...Oh yeah, I have a new timing set to install. This is kind of a "parts cannon" fix...but with 156,000+ miles, I don't feel bad replacing it based on principle. Hoping its the cause of a little knock I have. Doesn't sound like rod knock or piston slap, so I'm hoping its just a loose chain flopping around.
The last thing I might tear into is my front locker. Its been giving my fits last couple times I've been out. The pump runs and locks it up..then turns off like its supposed too. However, I don't believe the plates are fully engaging. So, I don't know if the bladder is leaking, and I'm not hearing the pump kick on, or if the pump isn't making enough pressure? I guess there could be some sort of obstruction or hang up in the diff that is preventing the plate from shuttling. I've been though the diff a couple times trying to fix it, making sure the oil fill isn't hitting and there is enough preload. Been watching marketplace for a decent deal on another...haven't really found one to jump on yet.
Firstly, I FINALLY got a decent set of half doors. Rust free, paid to have them shipped up from Texas. They are not perfect, but neither is the jeep they are going on. They ARE black though, with Mist gray interior panels. Those were sprayed with SEM Landau Black.
Last couple of years, I've had to be really careful pulling my key, because its worn to a point of being able to be pulled out any old time you want. Bought a new Dorman ignition and got the "code" off the keys provided and what was installed in the ignition cylinder. Now, I'm rekeying my doors to match the new keys. I tried to get a Key cut to VIN, but after the first dealer ship I went to looked at me like I had toes growing out of my forehead, and quotes online of 50-75 dollars, I figured I'd just buy the little lock cover plates and rekey all my existing locks.
Fun thing I learned in this process...1997-2001 Jeeps have different lock cylinders than 2002-current. Even more fun? My half doors are mixed. The driver's side is 2001 and lower, the Pass side is 2002 and up. My full doors are both 2004, and my tailgate is from a 98. So, I have a nice mix of lock cylinders. I kinda knew this already, and purchased a couple extra lock cylinders from the earlier models...however, they don't actually work in the later model doors. The cut out is just a bit big, and there is too much flex to activate the locks.
I have some REALLY nicely restored lock cylinders, if anyone is interested? 1997-2002, New Yellow Chromate Zinc coating! I think I'll have three of them extra when its all said and done.
Next week or so, I should get the motorhome stuff to a point I can get my shop cleaned up to receive the Jeep. I have the new shocks to go on. They are Fox performance series, 10" travel in factory location until I get a new frame. You may remember my rebuild thread on those (LINK) I have a bunch of transmission cooler stuff to install. I have purchased a oil thermostat since my trans runs pretty cool in the winter...like less than 100° F. Last wheeling trip I took (back in MAY
) I noticed one of my cooler lines was routed too close to my lower steering shaft, and the locking collar has been wearing away at the tubing. Its not perforated, yet, but I'm SUPER glad I noticed it. I zip tied it out of the way and its been good, but I need to fix that. With that impending disaster and the thermostat, I'll be replumbing my entire transmission cooling scheme. Right now, routed to the Setrab, then the radiator, then transmission. With the thermostat, I'll flip the sequence, so the cooling will happen as designed from the factory, until the thermostat opens and routes the fluid through the Setrab. I think in my Climate, the Setrab was actually overkill. Doing it this way should help maintain proper temps in the transmission. When extra cooling is necessary, it will be there (the thing is remarkably effective), but otherwise, it will be factory. What else...Oh yeah, I have a new timing set to install. This is kind of a "parts cannon" fix...but with 156,000+ miles, I don't feel bad replacing it based on principle. Hoping its the cause of a little knock I have. Doesn't sound like rod knock or piston slap, so I'm hoping its just a loose chain flopping around.
The last thing I might tear into is my front locker. Its been giving my fits last couple times I've been out. The pump runs and locks it up..then turns off like its supposed too. However, I don't believe the plates are fully engaging. So, I don't know if the bladder is leaking, and I'm not hearing the pump kick on, or if the pump isn't making enough pressure? I guess there could be some sort of obstruction or hang up in the diff that is preventing the plate from shuttling. I've been though the diff a couple times trying to fix it, making sure the oil fill isn't hitting and there is enough preload. Been watching marketplace for a decent deal on another...haven't really found one to jump on yet.
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