How do I remove factory skid plate spinning bolt inserts?
- Thread starter G-Whiz
- Start date
i.chevrette
New Member
Yup I had that problem too. Also hit it with PB Blaster.
Good luck.
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It is a good idea to try to break the skid plate bolts, rear & front bumper bolts loose if at all possible. For the skid plate remove one at a time. Wire brush the bolt threads and apply generous amount of Never Seize to threads, re-install and tighten. This should make the job easier in the future if you ever need to remove the skid plate or bumpers. As part of my PM program I also put a few drops of Kroil on any fasteners that have been known to be problems like the rear shock bolts on a TJ. A couple of drops of Kroil on a regular basis should make shock replacement easier as well. If the fasteners are weld rusted then you have to resort to more aggressive tactics but a little up front preventive maintenance can spare you a whole lot of time and grief down the road. The under carriage of a motor vehicle is a hostile environment.
TheShakes90
Member
Figure I'll add here rather than make a new thread. Just ordered some new nutserts from Blaine and I plan on cutting the heads/bolt body to get the spinners out for now. Now what to do about the rest of the bolt, I don't have access to a welder quite yet, so what I'm considering is using a pilot bit to get as close to center on the remaining bolt as possible, then drill out for the new nutserts. Anyone with more experience see a massive,besides lining up center, blunder or does it sound like a plan?
Also it's 2 bolts, right side front and center
Also it's 2 bolts, right side front and center
Sometimes you can put a crowbar (or flathead) in there to create some more friction and work the bolt(s) free, tag in some Kroil too. It may not solve your problem, but worth the try before drilling things out.
if you cut the bolts off you can grind off the rim of the nutsert and knock it into the frame. use a magnet on a flexible stick to fish them out.
Don't drill, as you don't want to risk oversizing the hole so the new nutserts don't fit right. Do grind down the protruding material (remainder of bolt and nutsert flange) with a flap disk on an angle grinder, then punch the remainder of nutsert into frame. Fish out nutsert and bolt with flex magnet from side hole of frame. Prep the frame area with paint or something to cover up the raw metal. Now you're ready to install fresh nutserts.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stripped-nutserts-for-transfer-case-skid.31751/
TheShakes90
Member
Yes. I painted the frame where I ground off the nutserts. I always paint/touch up the frame where I working.
TheShakes90
Member
Already printed the frame prior, was trying to decide whether a touch up on the nutserts would be warranted
TheShakes90
Member
One last question. I feel like I've put enough torque on my first rivnut, however my torque wrench didn't click like I expected. I just tried to call Blaine's shop but they are most likely busy, any hints?
I don't believe it's necessary, Blaine mentioned they have a zinc coating. I did as it is standard practice for me to apply fresh paint when working on my jeep.
If they spin the inserts have lost the grip to the frame. I used a chisel to wedge between the skid plate and the frame (hammerd in) near the spinning bolt. This wedges the insert tight against the frame. Loosen the bolt till it starts to spin again. Hammer the chisel/screwdriver to wedge it more and loosen again. Repeat till it's out. Then buy new inserts to re install
How'd you cut them off? It looks like I'll have to grind or torch one from the bottom. I can't get a gap between the frame and the pan.
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