Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Skid plate bolts

tiny312003

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Hello all, new here. I was getting ready to replace my exhaust so I removed the skid plate. However, only 5 of the 6 came out clean and I snapped the sixth. After much effort I snapped my bolt extractor as well. Is there any harm in just going 5 of the 6 bolts reinstalled?
 
Hello all, new here. I was getting ready to replace my exhaust so I removed the skid plate. However, only 5 of the 6 came out clean and I snapped the sixth. After much effort I snapped my bolt extractor as well. Is there any harm in just going 5 of the 6 bolts reinstalled?

IDK what year or transmission you have, but you can find what you need here.

https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products
 
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Depending on what type of extractor you broke the can be removed with some effort. far as the broken bolt remainder get a left hand drill. It may come out just by using the drill. If not finish drilling and retap the hole. Is 5 only the end of the world..no, but you should fix it right.
 
Thank you for all the quick help. Since this my "Sunday driver" I figured I would be ok going without one for a while. It's been two days laying on the cold concrete floor so I'll go ahead and put it back together as-is. Once the temps are decent I plan on giving it another shot.
 
Grind the frozen nutsert down to the frame and punch the remaining barrel up into the frame. Get a new one with the link @JMT posted.
 
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Thank you for all the quick help. Since this my "Sunday driver" I figured I would be ok going without one for a while. It's been two days laying on the cold concrete floor so I'll go ahead and put it back together as-is. Once the temps are decent I plan on giving it another shot.

Probably be fine, but safer to fix when you order some new nutserts and they arrive. Then you can do what @tworley said and replace the nutsert with the tool you will also receive from Black Magic Brakes.
 
Definitely gonna get some nutserts ordered this evening. Grinding it off sounds so much easier than trying to drill upside down. I was already trying to figure out how to make some sort of inverted drill press so I don't kill my shoulder any more than I already have
 
Grind the frozen nutsert down to the frame and punch the remaining barrel up into the frame. Get a new one with the link @JMT posted.

I'm about to replace all the nutserts on mine soon. Is there any way to extract the barrels from the frame after you grind out the old ones? I can't imagine having them just rattle around in there.
 
I'm about to replace all the nutserts on mine soon. Is there any way to extract the barrels from the frame after you grind out the old ones? I can't imagine having them just rattle around in there.
Flexible magnetic retrieving tool through the holes in the side of the frame.
 
Well there's the @JMT method too of removing the drilled out nutserts from the frame...

IMG_20250504_16515787.jpeg


-Mac
 
Flexible magnetic retrieving tool through the holes in the side of the frame.
When I built my transfer case skid, the machinist screwed up and countersunk at 82° instead of 90° for the metric nutserts on my '05. I ended up drilling out all 14 nutserts (the OEM and additional ones I added) and replacing them with the SAE nutserts used on earlier TJs to solve that conundrum (thanks again to @mrblaine for the idea, the nutserts, and the installation tool).

I didn't want fourteen inserts rattling around in the frame, so I used a bore camera and two different magnets-on-a-flexible-stick to get them all out. With the bore camera, it was pretty easy. There are multiple holes in the frame large enough to pass those cut-off bits through. Without the camera, it would have taken a lot longer. If you only need to remove one, though, I don't know that the bore camera is as helpful. I'm sure it would help, but instead of saving hours, it'll only save minutes.
 
Probably no rattle. I had a spinning nutsert that I ground down and punched up into the frame, and I haven't heard anything.

Someone did that to one for a rock rail that wound up inside the bubble in front of the roll cage foot. Slow down, it would rattle forward and tink off the front wall. Take off from a stop, it would rattle back and tink off the back wall. I drilled a hole and shoved a small strong magnet in there. No more noise.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts