Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
I’ll be totally honest bc normally I absolutely love your stuff but I’m not a huge fan of how it double bumps for the flare. The no flare version looks amazing tho.

It’s still in the design phase. I initially thought the same thing. The problem is matching the parts to one another. Trying to match two radius’s may be more trouble than it’s worth. I Won’t know till I build one.

I did learned things on this one that have already driven changes on the standard.

I have been thinking about the flare having a small overlay over the fender base to cover the the connection vs face to face. Still pondering lol. It also needs to be easily removable for the trail.
 
It’s still in the design phase. I initially thought the same thing. The problem is matching the parts to one another. Trying to match two radius’s may be more trouble than it’s worth. I Won’t know till I build one.

I did learned things on this one that have already driven changes on the standard.

I have been thinking about the flare having a small overlay over the fender base to cover the the connection vs face to face. Still pondering lol. It also needs to be easily removable for the trail.

People don't understand the amount of trial and error that design takes, and how each iteration can teach you 10 fold what not to do.

We have a Powerglide transmission for a Top Sportsman car and I designed an aluminum shift linkage bracket for it. It was special because of the flipped shifter flange and needing to just barely fit in a double framerail car. Something that simple (3 bolt holes and a hole for the linkage) took roughly 7 different designs, fully cut and welded to test, to get it to fit properly in the car with cutouts and the strength needed out of 5052 to withstand the pretty forceful push and pull against it.

My personal criteria was to just have 1 small edge to weld after bending.
 
Ya just thinking out loud. Ya it looks similar to nemesis fenders which still have a double bump, though smaller. Making the flare removable is definitely not an easy task. Matching the radius would be super hard and having the base any more square would risk hitting the front of it when the steering is full lock it’ll hang out and hit a rock even more similar to the stock fenders problem. Over lay on top would help looks but also since you have the body line tapered properly where it meets the tub I wouldn’t run flak armor and just color match the base fender and have the flare raw. Raw on paint I’d assume would rub or vibrate with taking it on or off. Also need the lights for turn signals in the base and not the flare.
 
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Th rub rail on the rocker is easy, it’s the rub rail on the tub radius that’s the tricky part. I want to use the same material if possible. I messed around with that a little today too and made some progress.

I haven't looked at it too much but is there an issue with running that rail on the aluminum backing plate instead of on the rash guard?
 
Yes, just have to make them and see how to get 10lbs of 💩 in a 5lb bag. But after the rear bumper I have more confidence it’s possible. Lol

Really like you're entering the fender territory! We need good/better builders like you joining the fold.

While bumpers are 'easy' installs — Be ready for lots of requests for install instructions. Just food for thought. Modern day - that can be a video vs pdf - just saying that if you approach the inners, be prepared to provide many more details than your other exterior products (the masses will likely demand that details - else you become another Savvy of 'you figure it out' product provider)

Love all the products I have from you!! Still need to install all - but expect nothing from you as they are straight forward. And I love your aluminum polishing instructions and your valance install video! So expect more like those last two to be expected for inner fenders.

Just want to warn you on what we see for 'consumer expectations' if/as you tip your toes into more complicated products.
 
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Really like you're entering the fender territory! We need good/better builders like you joining the fold.

While bumpers are 'easy' installs — Be ready for lots of requests for install instructions. Just food for thought. Modern day - that can be a video vs pdf - just saying that if you approach the inners, be prepared to provide many more details than your other exterior products (the masses will likely demand that details - else you become another Savvy of 'you figure it out' product provider)

Love all the products I have from you!! Still need to install all - but expect nothing from you as they are straight forward. And I love your aluminum polishing instructions and your valance install video! So expect more like those last two to be expected for inner fenders.

Just want to warn you on what we see for 'consumer expectations' if/as you tip your toes into more complicated products.

The challenge for making highline install instructions is that the fender assembly and installation is fairly easy. It is every thing else that the project spills into that makes a single set of instructions or guidelines or suggestions nearly impossible when there are so many differences in TJs from the factory. Then pile on the peculiarities of each individual build.

The real project of installing highlines is all of the custom fabbed mounts and brackets that are needed to relocate all the stuff in the engine bay to the new inner fenders. Then there is all the electrical and plumbing work required to feed all that stuff in their new locations. Followed by the constant realizations that none of what you just built will package nicely and it all needs to be redone. Installing highlines is an exercise in continually thinking a dozen steps ahead and constantly reevaluting the plan as things come together.

If you pay attention, very few spend the time to do any of this in a manner that begins to looks decent, in part because it is overwhelming to figure out. This is also when people figure out that their new fenders were the inexpensive part of the project.
 
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The challenge for making highline install instructions is that the fender assembly and installation is fairly easy. It is every thing else that the project spills into that makes a single set of instructions or guidelines or suggestions nearly impossible when there are so many differences in TJs from the factory. Then pile on the peculiarities of each individual build.

The real project of installing highlines is all of the custom fabbed mounts and brackets that are needed to relocate all the stuff in the engine bay to the new inner fenders. Then there is all the electrical and plumbing work needed to feed all that stuff in their new locations. Followed by the constant realizations that none of the stuff you just built will package nicely and it needs to be redone. This is an exercise in continually thinking a dozen steps ahead and constantly reevaluting the plan as things come together.

If you pay attention, very few spend the time to do any of this in a manner that begins to looks decent, in part because it is overwhelming to figure out. This is also when people figure out that their new fenders were the inexpensive part of the project.

💯 ^^^
 
Followed by the constant realizations that none of the stuff you just built will package nicely and it needs to be redone. ...

This is also when people figure out that their new fenders were the inexpensive part of the project.

We've learned that for anything with custom fitment will always take multiple attempts at making something work. Even if you have something that fits and could work, it could also look horrendous and as if you didn't care.

It takes a certain amount of ingenuity and patience to make things fit good.

The amount of material and time we've wasted making brackets and such sometimes makes you wonder if it's worth doing yourself. Then you take a step back and realize not many put this amount of effort into their stuff. At the end of the day you're proud you've done something of quality yourself and can't stop looking at it.
 
The challenge for making highline install instructions is that the fender assembly and installation is fairly easy. It is every thing else that the project spills into that makes a single set of instructions or guidelines or suggestions nearly impossible when there are so many differences in TJs from the factory. Then pile on the peculiarities of each individual build.

The real project of installing highlines is all of the custom fabbed mounts and brackets that are needed to relocate all the stuff in the engine bay to the new inner fenders. Then there is all the electrical and plumbing work required to feed all that stuff in their new locations. Followed by the constant realizations that none of what you just built will package nicely and it all needs to be redone. Installing highlines is an exercise in continually thinking a dozen steps ahead and constantly reevaluting the plan as things come together.

If you pay attention, very few spend the time to do any of this in a manner that begins to looks decent, in part because it is overwhelming to figure out. This is also when people figure out that their new fenders were the inexpensive part of the project.

Absolutely. It's a 1000 piece puzzle - and the fenders are only two of the pieces.

And don't even think about trying to do it with a set of coilovers and shock mounts poking up through the inner fender and taking away all that space!

I was in therapy for months after that one...

🙂
 
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Absolutely. It's a 100 piece puzzle - and the fenders are only two of the pieces.

And don't even think about trying to do it with a set of coilovers and shock mounts poking up through the inner fender and taking away all that space!

I was in therapy for months after that one...

🙂

umm, just ordered my coil overs. Does your therapist do face time consults so I can keep working while we talk?
 
Test fit went well. I like a lot of it. I need to move some mounting holes around, change the bottom of the vent shape to match the radius. My genrights made me push the grill forward making the grill protrude out more than it should from the hood. The inner fenders need to fit a stock group 34 battery and proved as much room for components as possible. For a first test fit it went well. Most of this was to test the building process. What flanges go where to get the smooth round radius’s vs the sharper corner edge flange.

It may be just because these are new to my eye but I like the profile aesthetic more than the tube fenders. I’m sure this is a personal preference and will vary wildly among opinions. It also looks better with the 35s than I thought. This is a 35 with 1.25” body and 2.5” suspension lift for reference.

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts