Sport cage bolt to wheel well - opinions
- Thread starter deleted
- Start date
I can't tell which is more retarded, your bolt sizes or Mac liking your post. There is no such thing as a 3/16-8 bolt. Closest to that is 10-24 which is close to 3/16" in diameter.
There are lots of rules about thread engagement. However, there is not a single standard nut that follows any of them. Look at the heights relative to thread diameter.
Then we have all of us running control arms that adjust with jam nuts which are even shorter and we've never stripped one nor do I know of anyone who has.
If this was a problem I was worried about, I'd just peel back the fender liner and take a peek to see if any threads are sticking through the weld nut. No? Get a longer bolt. Yes, good to go.
3/8-16 I speak dyslexic.
And I speak I can't find my readers so I'm trying to respond...but...
=)
-Mac
If you support low effort, then that is all we get after awhile. If you don't believe that, do any internet search for something specific and watch all the bullshit that pops up.
I may have written that spec for a specific bolt, and therefore it is incorrect for many other applications. I’ll happily delete my post. Thanks for calling me out.
IIRC, in construction the requirement is that the bolt be at (or past) flush with the end of the nut.
The ASME reference in MrBlaine's snip is the nut spec which standardizes the depth/thickness of the referenced nuts. But that is dependent on the nut material since the goal is the fastener fails before the nut fails, so thickness could be different on a weldnut.
I'd say the safest route would be to match or beat the grade of the fastener, and purchase one at least the additional length of the material that was added. If the original fastener is flanged, and a hex head is used instead, addition of the washer should also be added to minimum length.
The 30 lb-ft is maxing a dry-set 3/8-16, so I'd expect to go grade 8:
The ASME reference in MrBlaine's snip is the nut spec which standardizes the depth/thickness of the referenced nuts. But that is dependent on the nut material since the goal is the fastener fails before the nut fails, so thickness could be different on a weldnut.
I'd say the safest route would be to match or beat the grade of the fastener, and purchase one at least the additional length of the material that was added. If the original fastener is flanged, and a hex head is used instead, addition of the washer should also be added to minimum length.
The 30 lb-ft is maxing a dry-set 3/8-16, so I'd expect to go grade 8:
Low effort is not proofing and making sure it is correct so that others benefit from your experience and knowledge. Has nothing to do with how much you sit around thinking about anything but more instead assisting those that needed the same info you needed only you couldn't take the time to make sure it was right. Gibberish is gibberish whether it is rules or numbers and again, numbers you really wish were there just to make things a tiny bit easier.
Well then, do that. Check your work so others can benefit. It isn't a contribution if it is all fucked up and retarded.
Deservedly so.
If you are really that fucking delicate, take them all off and send them back, I'll happily refund your money. Or, you can recognize you need two things, good brakes and a level of accuracy that is actually helpful.
I believe the 6 turns comes from wheel spacer installations with covered lug nuts. Agree with your resulting concerns there, and it's likely not a good source for safety minimums.
Similar threads
