You have to move the swing, then stop the parts and places where flex is happening that it shouldn't be.
Building a tire carrier for a 35 inch tire
- Thread starter myjeep3
- Start date
You have to move the swing, then stop the parts and places where flex is happening that it shouldn't be.
If you are going to do that, the bolt holes need to be sleeved to prevent the tube from collapsing.
You would still need to sleeve the holes to prevent the tube from collapsing.
Don't weld the bolts into place.
What it if I weld the bolt on the other side of the tube where it touches the cross member, adding the plate first?? Then on the front side of the tube the bolt won't be seen. Should a plate be welded on before the pivot bracket?
Would that work? Or should I just use a thicker tube
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My honest opinion is that there is nothing about the surface mounted hinge that I like, and I already do not like bumper mounted swing out carriers after having one for many years.
Were I forced to build one, I might copy the ones that use a trailer spindle and hub as the hinge.
My insistence that the bolt holes need to sleeved comes from an understanding that a bolted connection like that needs to be supported in order to achieve proper bolt torque that does not collapse the tube.
Is that bracket tacked to the tube going to be your pivot point?. If so just put a piece of 1/8" angle on the back side & some 1/8" flat plate on top & bottom. Weld everything all around & that should be plenty strong. You'll have to redrill the holes for your bolt, but it would double the surface area against the bolt. Also, a 3/4" bolt will bind before it breaks so if it becomes more difficult to open & close then you'll know that you need a stronger hinge mechanism.
I hear you. My last two carrier/bumper i built had the pivot hinge at the top of the bumper, didn't like it much, so trying something different
You need to have something inside the tube to keep it from collapsing like jjwv has suggested 3 times.
I can do that, but then bracket for the pivot hinge is shorter thn the bumper, so that flat plate at the bottom won't go across like the one at the top. The bracket is about 4"1/4, bumper is 6".
Ok thanks. How else can i install the bumper bolts so that I don't have to sleeve the bolts holes?
Was thinking of opening the back side of the bumper facing the crossmember, install a 3/16 plate and run the bolt through thn weld in place. Any other easier way to run those bolts?
Honestly, sleeving is the easiest option since the bolt holes are already there. You just need to drill the holes a bit bigger so you can slide some tube/pipe all the way through, then weld both sides. If you grind the tube & weld flush you'll see if there's any lack of penetration & can add more weld until it solid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3J98QJ?tag=wranglerorg-20 Tie in brackets
Skimmed over this thread so I might have missed it, but if you don't have tie in brackets make them or get them. I put them on my homemade swing bumper. What's bad is these brackets were like 20$ a few years ago so it was honestly better to buy them instead of making them.
Here's my tire carrier. The axle shaft that holds the spare is a dana 35 shaft I broke
Skimmed over this thread so I might have missed it, but if you don't have tie in brackets make them or get them. I put them on my homemade swing bumper. What's bad is these brackets were like 20$ a few years ago so it was honestly better to buy them instead of making them.
Here's my tire carrier. The axle shaft that holds the spare is a dana 35 shaft I broke
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