Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Axle assembly options

Well definitely still leaking. Less than 300 miles on the new seal. I'm thinking there is more to this than just a bad batch of seals.

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Sorry, I might be a retarded, but doesn't that pinion seal look very crooked? The bottom is pushed in almost a centimeter, whereas the top looks flush with the housing face, or close to it?
 
Have you blown through the vent hose to be sure it isn't clogged and building pressure?
Well the rear vent hose is clear. No clogs at all.


Sorry, I might be a retarded, but doesn't that pinion seal look very crooked? The bottom is pushed in almost a centimeter, whereas the top looks flush with the housing face, or close to it?

Yes it does appear so. here is a closer pic from today. But I woulnt expect such a small cant to cause such a large leak. Could be wrong though. It does make me wonder if the internal spring fell out. Although I imagine a whole bunch of other problems would exist if that were the case. Funny enough this angle (drivers side) hides the leak pretty well.
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Is that an original yoke?it could be groovedat the seal surface. A new spicer one wouldn't be expensive
It is. This could be an option for sure. I'm concerned the issue is a larger problem. But I will see about getting it swapped out.


Have you pulled the driveshafts one at a time and ran it up to speed to isolate which end is the issue? Just a driveshaft or draftshaft angle issue?

Housings can be checked for straightness pretty easily
Didnt get a chance today, probably not for a while with weather going south again. I'm not so sure it's a good idea to use the front diff to get up to 75 though? The noise really doesnt present itself until 70-75. And at 80 is where it's really prominent. I dont usually go that fas though.

Oh, and after that little 8 miles worth of simple 4x4 over the weekend, the front is leaking too now...
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using offset balljoints


I have no personal experience but I believe only the upper is adjustable? Assuming I am right about that, offset ball joints effectively move the center of the hub out of alignment with the center of the carrier. So couldn't that cause the binding when locking/unlocking? And also possibly cause a leak at the seal and possibly weird wear on the splines?

I don't know for certain but it seems like offset ball joints could cause more problems than they solve.
 
I have no personal experience but I believe only the upper is adjustable? Assuming I am right about that, offset ball joints effectively move the center of the hub out of alignment with the center of the carrier. So couldn't that cause the binding when locking/unlocking? And also possibly cause a leak at the seal and possibly weird wear on the splines?

I don't know for certain but it seems like offset ball joints could cause more problems than they solve.

Yea the offset ball joints are only for the upper. They change the caster if they are front/back or camber left/right. The binding and oil leaking occurred before I installed them (after some spirited driving). There was also a very small leak coming from a plug weld near the differential.

The ball offset joints solved my negative camber but not the oil leaking issue or loading of the hub bushing. I coukd run the hubs locked without brining the bushing up but then that caused the gears to turn and oil spit out of the axle tubes again.
 
Yea the offset ball joints are only for the upper. They change the caster if they are front/back or camber left/right. The binding and oil leaking occurred before I installed them (after some spirited driving). There was also a very small leak coming from a plug weld near the differential.

The ball offset joints solved my negative camber but not the oil leaking issue or loading of the hub bushing. I coukd run the hubs locked without brining the bushing up but then that caused the gears to turn and oil spit out of the axle tubes again.

If you adjust the top ball joint back, you are also tipping the knuckle back which moves the hub end of the axle shaft back which moves it out of alignment with the carrier.

Is it enough to cause issues? That I don't know for certain but seems like it could.
 
If you adjust the top ball joint back, you are also tipping the knuckle back which moves the hub end of the axle shaft back which moves it out of alignment with the carrier.

Is it enough to cause issues? That I don't know for certain but seems like it could.

It was leaking oil out of the housing’s tube ends and one of the plug welds near the diff…and was eating hub bushings long before I tried the adjustable ball joints. My hubs were too hot to touch and the adjusters were locked up and could not be turned.

I tried the ball joints bc my camber was more than 2* negative and visibly pointing in at the top.
 
So the current plan is the shop will warranty out the rear seal again. Their suggestion is if this doesnt fix it, try another seal manufacturer. They have been experiencing a ton of poorly made seals apparently. We're keeping an eye on the front, but likely it needs to be replaced as well. Same plan. Definitely stilll not happy about the outcome so far and I'm still considering getting new axles for the LJ and taking those to put in the TJ.
 
While waiting on making a decision about the unit bearings and brakes I wanted to revive this discussion. Not for the TJ though, it still has the same issue after another seal replacement.

I figure if I get drop in axles for the LJ, then I wont have to worry about rebuilding them, and can use those axles in the TJ since I'm still having issues.

So the question is:
Currie, or Fusion
Fusion is more expensive if I purchase Curry from either q-tech or Northridge. Northridge is more expensive but they have always had great customer service.

The specs I believe are the same. So really the question is, is there a reason to choose Fusion over Curry? Curry has a good name for a long time and I'm leaning that way over the Fusions.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator