Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

My cutoff switch is 150 PSI in both my shop compressor & York. It's why I have regulators in the Jeep & the shop.

It's been a long damn time but I remember seeing someone run their York up to 250psi to a T for an auxiliary tank and a regulator. I guess it would be kind of like running a power tank on a smaller but refillable scale.
 
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On the 1/2” impact you linked, it’s the non-fuel version. Probably still a nice tool but wanted to flag it as the fuel versions provide higher torque ratings (and command a $$ premium)

I missed that but it was a deal part of it so I'll take it for now. But it would have been nice to have the Fuel version.
 
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Still not bad specs...
 
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@Wildman could I get some close up picks of what the mounting of the metal cloak rear flares look like? What is the point of the mounting plate and do you think it’s necessary or can they be made/bypassed?
 
@Wildman could I get some close up picks of what the mounting of the metal cloak rear flares look like? What is the point of the mounting plate and do you think it’s necessary or can they be made/bypassed?

The way the flare mount onto the plate I guess could be replicated but for the price I don't know if it's worth it. The flares mount to the tabs on the plats and also to the 4 screws in the upper corners. I'll have to go out and take some pictures later. If' I'd been thinking when I was doing mine I would have bought these and GR aluminum blank corners in aluminum and cut out my own opening.

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The flare fits over these round tabs.

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The flares have tabs that mount to this area with a backing plate and screws.

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Doesn’t seem all that complicated definitely not almost $200 complicated which Is the cost of the mounting plate.

Also, the amount of bolts seems a little excessive for a “quick release” feature, honestly wonder if I could get away with only 4 bolts using two top bolts to locate it and do away with the bottom tube locator.
 
Here's some dirty pictures. I guess you could get by with one bolt on each side. Also the 2 lower bolts.

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This slides over the nub that sticks out.

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You could build the plate or if you have armor already weld the nubs to that.

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The front is only held on with 2 bolts.

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It's $180 for the pair so $90 per side. Yes could make for cheaper but what's your time worth?
 
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Here's some dirty pictures. I guess you could get by with one bolt on each side. Also the 2 lower bolts.

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This slides over the nub that sticks out.

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You could build the plate or if you have armor already weld the nubs to that.

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The front is only held on with 2 bolts.

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It's $180 for the pair so $90 per side. Yes could make for cheaper but what's your time worth?


I was saying do away with the nubs entirely, unless I’m missing something what is their purpose, the top holes locate the flare so the nubs seem redundant.

I would weld on some nubs but insurance has the welder too so I’m just working off basic tools.

What do the plates do that a rivnut won’t?
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts