I can’t see why testing the clutch is benefitial if high speed cooling is the issue.
If low speed overheating was an issue, then you could blame the clutch.
Overheating problem
- Thread starter Dvaniwaarden11
- Start date
I can’t see why testing the clutch is benefitial if high speed cooling is the issue.
If low speed overheating was an issue, then you could blame the clutch.
I agree. It’s all free to me and he wants to test that part, so it doesn’t bother me. I’m hoping it’ll make him think of something else in the process that ends up being the solution.
That top blade...looks to me that it is bent. There is even a nick on the inward edge which is not seen on the other 2 blades.
Glad you mentioned it, but it’s likely camera illusions. The corner looks shinier for some reason and the inside of the blade looks bent likely due to the dust…edges are currently all good.
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Had surgery on Wednesday so have just been thinking about this whole issue. Am I tripping out or is the belt on backwards here? Is it even possible to put it on backwards to spin the fan the wrong way? Or am I just having some brain fog from the pain meds?
Lol
Lol
Also could my catalytic converter be causing me to overheat? I got some minor emissions code that turned my CEL on… didn’t think it was related but could it be?
Yes
Looks like mine.
Nothing would surprise me.
I just did the Rubicon trail. My belt split and I ended up peeling off a rib...I think my crank pulley isn't fully seated.
But three days low crawl, compromised belt, high ambient temperatures and steady engine temperatures.
Try pulling your O2s. It'll throw codes for them being missing, ignore them...see if it overheats. You're making an exhaust leak.
You can also use a laser IR gun to check temperature differences.
-Mac
@Jerry Bransford
I’ve read a lot of overheating threads on here where you’ve helped many people. Was wondering if you could look over this thread to see if you have any new ideas that could help? Still having trouble with deciding what to even do next short of buying some electric fans to push more air on the outside of my condenser. At a loss for this issue and have no idea what direction to go with it.
I’ve read a lot of overheating threads on here where you’ve helped many people. Was wondering if you could look over this thread to see if you have any new ideas that could help? Still having trouble with deciding what to even do next short of buying some electric fans to push more air on the outside of my condenser. At a loss for this issue and have no idea what direction to go with it.
Jerry no longer frequents this forum.
Holy
.....! That is crazy. I didn't think there were any mopar rads left for early tj's. Guy must be holding out for someone truely desperate.
Holy
…could be Jerry.
Holy
Crazy enough, found a mopar radiator on Amazon for $373 this morning and they only had one for sale. I used the link that Chris put in the cooling system write up so I trust that it’s legit. I’m crossing my fingers that when it gets here I’ll be able to solve my issue!
So, update. Mopar radiator got cancelled by Amazon. Could have been a mistake. Not sure.
Talked to my mechanic today, as I’ve been healing from a hand surgery the last couple weeks I had him testing some things to see if he could figure it out.
After some of you all had mentioned the fan looking like it was too far out of the shroud, I mentioned that to him. I’m not sure how he accomplished this but he extended the fan further under the shroud and was unable to get it to overheat again. I assume it may have had something to do with the fan causing some sort of vacuum by pulling air from the top of the shroud or by simply not functioning how it was designed.
I have no idea how this happened and can only think that when he dropped the new 4.0 in, he dropped it too far back towards the firewall by an inch which didn’t allow the fan to seat under the shroud. He had installed a sensor radiator in it and I had replaced the thermostat and water pump myself prior to my surgery a couple weeks back.
It still doesn’t make sense that I would only overheat at freeway speeds if the fan wasn’t functioning as it should have. I would figure u would overheat in LA/orange county traffic too. But regardless, once I pick up the jeep from him in a week or two I’ll run it through a more rigorous test to attempt to overheat it.
This all seems like a logical solution though. The engine would get hotter under load and the fan wasn’t performing the job as it was designed to and then wouldn’t help when I got to a point where the cooling system couldn’t keep up with a hot engine going uphill.
Figured I’d update my thread and then come back and confirm or deny my results.
I think it makes sense in theory. All other “new” cooling parts have been replaced again so it’s either this engine is a fucking gremlin or my mechanic improperly dropped the motor in and my fan was t positioned correctly.
Yikes this has been a nightmare. Lol
Talked to my mechanic today, as I’ve been healing from a hand surgery the last couple weeks I had him testing some things to see if he could figure it out.
After some of you all had mentioned the fan looking like it was too far out of the shroud, I mentioned that to him. I’m not sure how he accomplished this but he extended the fan further under the shroud and was unable to get it to overheat again. I assume it may have had something to do with the fan causing some sort of vacuum by pulling air from the top of the shroud or by simply not functioning how it was designed.
I have no idea how this happened and can only think that when he dropped the new 4.0 in, he dropped it too far back towards the firewall by an inch which didn’t allow the fan to seat under the shroud. He had installed a sensor radiator in it and I had replaced the thermostat and water pump myself prior to my surgery a couple weeks back.
It still doesn’t make sense that I would only overheat at freeway speeds if the fan wasn’t functioning as it should have. I would figure u would overheat in LA/orange county traffic too. But regardless, once I pick up the jeep from him in a week or two I’ll run it through a more rigorous test to attempt to overheat it.
This all seems like a logical solution though. The engine would get hotter under load and the fan wasn’t performing the job as it was designed to and then wouldn’t help when I got to a point where the cooling system couldn’t keep up with a hot engine going uphill.
Figured I’d update my thread and then come back and confirm or deny my results.
I think it makes sense in theory. All other “new” cooling parts have been replaced again so it’s either this engine is a fucking gremlin or my mechanic improperly dropped the motor in and my fan was t positioned correctly.
Yikes this has been a nightmare. Lol
No wiggle room with engine mounts and transmission. At least none that don't involve a welder and torch.
You can move the fan shroud up and down with new holes. I suppose you could space it inwards with washers... although getting a washer or spacer in would be difficult.
Guessing it's either a spacer on the fan, or a different fan clutch.
For posterity's sake do post some pictures of the solution.
-Mac
You can move the fan shroud up and down with new holes. I suppose you could space it inwards with washers... although getting a washer or spacer in would be difficult.
Guessing it's either a spacer on the fan, or a different fan clutch.
For posterity's sake do post some pictures of the solution.
-Mac
New parts can be bad out of the box. Enough that "i put new parts in so it must be something else" is a fallacy. The frustrating part is finding out which ones.
If you want to consider the motor try looking in the oil for metal.cut open the filter and do the same. Measure oil temps before and during overheating. Fuel trims.
I still think its the cheap radiator. The one in my tj is barely adequete in summer with my stroker. It heats up pretty quick pulling grades at freeway speeds. Thankfully none have been long enough yet for me to need to stop and cool down.
Where is your old radiator?
If you want to consider the motor try looking in the oil for metal.cut open the filter and do the same. Measure oil temps before and during overheating. Fuel trims.
I still think its the cheap radiator. The one in my tj is barely adequete in summer with my stroker. It heats up pretty quick pulling grades at freeway speeds. Thankfully none have been long enough yet for me to need to stop and cool down.
Where is your old radiator?
Old radiator was some off brand thing. Granted it was new. This Jeep has a 4 week old denso in it. The whole cooling system was new in this Jeep because the motor is brand new. But I’ve replace all the cooling system again, except the fan clutch since it passed the spin test.
But yeah I’ll take a look at the oil when I get my Jeep back.
Alright, so I’ve got a normal fan in the jeep without the clutch. So it turns 1:1 off the pully. It was about 90 degrees taking it on the highway hills I had issues with before. I drove it hard with my foot all the way down and couldn’t get it past the 0 in 210. I’m happy, but not super happ with it. It at least isn’t overheating right now but I’d probably have to wait to take it on one of our big hills down here in socal before I can confirm it’s sufficient (cajon pass). I have a hole in the fire way from where I fed wires through awhile back so I can feel the engine heat on my leg so I know when it feels too hot. Still felt really hot compared to when I’m running it on a cool morning back when it was overheating when it was hot out (if that makes sense).
Overall, I’m going to run some more tests on it and see what’s what. Yeah I know I know that the OEM clutch fan should be sufficient.
However, if it’s stupid and it works, it’s not stupid haha.
Let me know opinions in the comments (please go easy on me mopar minions)
Overall, I’m going to run some more tests on it and see what’s what. Yeah I know I know that the OEM clutch fan should be sufficient.
However, if it’s stupid and it works, it’s not stupid haha.
Let me know opinions in the comments (please go easy on me mopar minions)
What rpm were you at when that picture was taken? That oil pressure looks low... assuming the factory sender is anywhere close to reality.
I approve the fan clutch bypass. I probably would have tried another 2-3 parts before going straight to the bodge...but I get why you want to prove it works first.
Mopar parts just aren't any guarantee of quality or a one time fix anymore.
Small detail... nothing relevant...but I'd get rid of those hose clamps on the cooling system hoses and replace them with original spec'd constant tension clamps.
-Mac
I approve the fan clutch bypass. I probably would have tried another 2-3 parts before going straight to the bodge...but I get why you want to prove it works first.
Mopar parts just aren't any guarantee of quality or a one time fix anymore.
Small detail... nothing relevant...but I'd get rid of those hose clamps on the cooling system hoses and replace them with original spec'd constant tension clamps.
-Mac
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