Soundstream rsm1.2000d paired with kicker 6.75 (can I do that?)

Musician235

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After reading many of the audio upgrade threads, I am finding that some of the mono block amp and sub upgrades are no longer sold or out of stock, so, at risk of beating a dead horse am hoping to get some thoughts on whether its wise or unwise to use a soundstream rsm1.2000d mono subwoofer amplifier to power one two or four ohm dual voice coil 6.75 kicker subwoofer in the center console. As I understand audio, this amp is overpowered as it puts out 480 watts at 2 ohms but the speaker handles 150 rms .. wondering if it is still OK to pair them up since I already have the amp. Thinking it will be OK as long as the volume isn’t cranked to blow the subwoofer.

Is exceedinglythe 150 RMS recommendation on the kicker a no no ? Any audio experts willing to weigh in?
  • 360 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
  • 480 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
  • 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm
 
After reading many of the audio upgrade threads, I am finding that some of the mono block amp and sub upgrades are no longer sold or out of stock, so, at risk of beating a dead horse am hoping to get some thoughts on whether its wise or unwise to use a soundstream rsm1.2000d mono subwoofer amplifier to power one two or four ohm dual voice coil 6.75 kicker subwoofer in the center console. As I understand audio, this amp is overpowered as it puts out 480 watts at 2 ohms but the speaker handles 150 rms .. wondering if it is still OK to pair them up since I already have the amp. Thinking it will be OK as long as the volume isn’t cranked to blow the subwoofer.

Is exceedinglythe 150 RMS recommendation on the kicker a no no ? Any audio experts willing to weigh in?
  • 360 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
  • 480 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
  • 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

My 5-channel amp’s power rating is higher than the Kicker 6.75” needs but i keep things happy by setting the gains.

Keep your gains set appropriately low and you should be able to turn your volume up. Beyond power concerns, maybe consider the physical size of the amp…if you can get something smaller that will do the job.
 
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Its better to over power the speaker than have the speaker handle more power than the amp can give...
I wish I could agree it's better to overpower the speakers but it's always better if the speaker has a little more wattage capacity than the amplifier can give so the speakers won't blow out if someone cranks it up too loudly. Some will claim the amplifier will start clipping (distorting) the sound when you turn up the volume but that won't happen when you properly match the speaker and amplifier together by choosing the speaker properly and that it has a sufficient Sensitivity rating together with a reasonably powered amplifier.

Of course a 12 RMS watt per channel amplifier will clip if you connect it to 250 watt speakers with 80 dB Sensitivity ratings and turn it up so you can hear it. However that's a totally mismatched combination. For a Jeep, an amplifier rated, for example, 50 RMS watts per channel connected to speaker rated to say 150-250 watts but with a 92 dB sensitivity will work extremely well and will play louder than our ears can survive with no danger of the amplifier clipping or blowing the speakers out. Kicker and Polk speakers used in our TJs are commonly rated to 250 watts but with their high Sensitivity ratings they certainly don't need (nor would it be desirable) to drive them with amps rated to 300 RMS watts. Amps rated 25-50 RMS per channel will drive speakers with 90 dB or higher Sensitivity ratings so loudly with no clipping it'll make your ears bleed.

I spent time working in the very high-end audio industry providing sound systems to large venues like auditoriums, churches, theaters, and even sports arenas. My company even provided the sound system for AT&T Stadium the Dallas Cowboys play at. For safety reasons speakers always had more wattage capacity than the amplifiers could put out but we always made sure the amplifiers were up to the job too. The amps were BIG like 2500 to 6000 watts RMS with racks of them putting out 25-30,000 watts or even more at times but the speakers could always handle more than that since we didn't want them blowing out. They all had proper Sensitivity levels so they could be adequately driven.
 
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I wish I could agree it's better to overpower the speakers but it's always better if the speaker has a little more wattage capacity than the amplifier can give so the speakers won't blow out if someone cranks it up too loudly. Some will claim the amplifier will start clipping (distorting) the sound when you turn up the volume but that won't happen when you properly match the speaker and amplifier together by choosing the speaker properly and that it has a sufficient Sensitivity rating together with a reasonably powered amplifier.

Of course a 12 RMS watt per channel amplifier will clip if you connect it to 250 watt speakers with 80 dB Sensitivity ratings and turn it up so you can hear it. However that's a totally mismatched combination. For a Jeep, an amplifier rated, for example, 50 RMS watts per channel connected to speaker rated to say 150-250 watts but with a 92 dB sensitivity will work extremely well and will play louder than our ears can survive with no danger of the amplifier clipping or blowing the speakers out. Kicker and Polk speakers used in our TJs are commonly rated to 250 watts but with their high Sensitivity ratings they certainly don't need (nor would it be desirable) to drive them with amps rated to 300 RMS watts. Amps rated 25-50 RMS per channel will drive speakers with 90 dB or higher Sensitivity ratings so loudly with no clipping it'll make your ears bleed.

I spent time working in the very high-end audio industry providing sound systems to large venues like auditoriums, churches, theaters, and even sports arenas. My company even provided the sound system for AT&T Stadium the Dallas Cowboys play at. For safety reasons speakers always had more wattage capacity than the amplifiers could put out but we always made sure the amplifiers were up to the job too. The amps were BIG like 2500 to 6000 watts RMS with racks of them putting out 25-30,000 watts or even more at times but the speakers could always handle more than that since we didn't want them blowing out. They all had proper Sensitivity levels so they could be adequately driven.

OK...so you worked where you could precisely specify your components. Can you do that as well working out of the crutchfield catalog? I'll take what you say at face value, as I'm sure you're correct. But, instead of only correcting me, why don't you use that knowledge of yours to help the OP pick an amp and speaker combo that will work for him instead of just bragging to me about how smart you are.

Oh, and I DID mention that its better to match the components more closely, FWIW. You probably didn't see that in your haste to prove me wrong.
 
Hey Musician235, I’m new to the forum but have 30-years in the A/V world from cars, boats and home AV systems! If you have the room to install it and can run heavy mains to the amp I’d go for it. The sub has two 4ohm VC (DVC) per kicker spec sheet so connect it in parallel from the amp and should be good to go? The amp is rated to 1ohm and parallel setup would run at 2ohm with this sub. Run the gain at 40-50% and set crossover at 100 but leave bass boost off (0). Use stereo line level cables (RCA) vs high level from head unit. If you want to tune the amp to correct voltage use a volt meter or pick up SMD meter. It’s not a 10-12” sub but you should get good clean base from this setup.

IMG_0362.png
 
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Thank you all for the prompt responses and info. I ended up ordering a lesser powered amp
Skar rp-350 to power a 6.75 four ohm DVC kicker and hopefully it will work just as well.

Just throwing the following option out there (surely some prefer to make their own steering column amp plate but I did order one of these premade ones at a reasonable price ; very good quality and time saver.

https://taboocustoms.com/store/ampmountplate
 
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Hey Musician235, I’m new to the forum but have 30-years in the A/V world from cars, boats and home AV systems! If you have the room to install it and can run heavy mains to the amp I’d go for it. The sub has two 4ohm VC (DVC) per kicker spec sheet so connect it in parallel from the amp and should be good to go? The amp is rated to 1ohm and parallel setup would run at 2ohm with this sub. Run the gain at 40-50% and set crossover at 100 but leave bass boost off (0). Use stereo line level cables (RCA) vs high level from head unit. If you want to tune the amp to correct voltage use a volt meter or pick up SMD meter. It’s not a 10-12” sub but you should get good clean base from this setup.

View attachment 484953

Thank you for this detailed info, I may just have to try both set up and compare results for the sake of learning… something tells me they might sound just about the same when set, so I might just have to hang onto that sound stream for a larger box in the back sometime.
 
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